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Brakes/ABS problems


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Posted

Is it possible to crank a caliper piston to far back in to the caliper for new pads and rotors?? And possibly mess up the abs control module??

 

Its a 1999 silverado 1500 2WD, disc brakes all around. I replaced the rotors and pads and everything was going smooth until I got to the passenger rear caliper. While compressing the piston in, it stopped shy of fitting over the new pads (maybe an 8th of an inch short). Not being able to slide the caliper back onto the pads, I noticed the piston was not flush (or pushed all the way in) so I cranked the C-clamp (which took a little extra elbow grease) to compress it back in. Finished up everything and put the truck back on the ground. Get in and super spongy brake pedal. After talking with some friends and bleeding the brakes. I still am having the spongy brake pedal. 

 

When I replaced the pads and rotors I had the cap off of the master cylinder. When I went to bleed the brakes everything seemed normal. Brake pedal was getting stiff and acting normal to what I have experienced in the past on other vehicles when bleeding. As soon as I crank the truck up and is running it goes back to being spongy. After surfing the web and talking with some friends I came across the ABS module bleed process that the Tech2 performs for possible air reaching the module. Luckily I had a buddy with a high dollar snap-on programmer/scan tool that would do the abs module bleed. Did that, then bled the brakes once again and had a stiff pedal after 2 pumps. Soon as I cranked the truck the pedal went to the floor and back to spongy. 

 

Sooooo..... Is there a possibility of blowing the solenoids or seals in the control module? 

 

Sorry for the long post, just thought I'd see if anybody had some thoughts. Thanks for your time!

Posted

check that piston that was hard to push back, it maybe stuck due to debris in caliper.  this will give you a spongey pedal

Posted

Did the master cylinder reservoir go dry while you were bleeding the brakes?  If yes, you might need to bench bleed the master cylinder.  Also, how old are the hoses to the calipers?  I agree you should replace that rear caliper.  Sometimes it can take forever to get all the air out of the system.

 

Good luck!

Posted

I replaced the caliper. Let it gravity bleed, then bled all of them again. (Forgot to mention that) in hopes of it being that caliper. 
 

I checked/added fluid to the master cylinder after each caliper bleed. So it never went dry. 
 

it seems to work exactly how it should, until I crank it up. A buddy said try and bleed it with it running, but I can’t get the pedal stiff  enough to keep pressure on it to bleed. 

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