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Knock Sensors

Michael31
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Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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I tested my truck and the 332 code reappeared at about 7 Highway miles. I erased the code to see if it would come on again? I’ve plowed and driven low speeds since and no codes yet? I am going to test it at highway speeds this week? I will post the results later.

  • 2 weeks later...
Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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Back to the starting line. Tested my truck at low speeds and short runs on the farm, everything looked great. Went on the highway at about 2000 RPM ( about 55 MPH ) for a few minuted the check engine light came on. Checked the codes and back to 332, 327, 172, 174? Am I looking at the wrong stuff? Willing to give it one more try to solve the problem? Kinds getting PO'ed doing the same thing with the same results over and over? ( Someone told me that's a sign of insanity ? ).

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

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Can you smoke test the intake and also check your fuel pressure while driving?

 

The lean codes is what I'd be looking to solve with those two.

 

I've run into truck where even after I replace knock sensors and the harness with a new OEM one, it still tossed one of the two knock sensor codes for whatever reason. Even with checking the wiring all the way down into the PCM. I ended up having to disable the sensor with my tuning software to stop them from coming up. The sensors still work and everything even with the codes disabled.

Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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CamGTP,

OK. Start over with square one? 

 

I'll keep everyone posted. If the smoke test goes good probably look into a new MAF sensor.

 

Can I hurt the engine if the knock sensors are malfunctioning?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

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I wouldn't be at the point of a new MAF just yet. Checking for leaks after it and making sure fuel pressure is within spec to see if that is a cause for the two lean codes.

 

The knock sensor codes don't harm the engine, they just rob it of power. When a knock sensor code is active, it will pull ignition timing away.

Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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Ok, just took a test drive and the check engine light came on again? Only the P0332? Why does it take a couple miles at 2000 RPM’s to set off the code again?? 
 

Am I wrong thinking if it was faulty the check engine light would be on all the time? 
 

To me this doesn’t make any sense. If it’s bad it’s bad?

 

Still confused?

Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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Hopefully this last bit of information will Help?

 

The only code left is the P0 332 code. I've cleared it and it has stayed off for awhile now. I've tracked it down to: I will come on while decelerating or going down hill. I use the truck for hauling hay and it stayed off for quite awhile if I was using power or going flat or uphill. When I coasted downhill is when the check engine light comes on? Maybe time to cut my losses and call it good with only the 332 code (bank 2 knock sensor circuit low)? 

  • 1 month later...
Michael31 Enthusiast

Michael31

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Still have the P0 332 code going off and on? Cleared the code and used the truck for a 100 mile trip with my flatbed trailer, No code the whole trip. Drive locally and the code reappears? It seems to go longer and longer without sending the P0 332 code the more I use it and clear the code?

 

Don't really understand? 

  • 4 years later...
TLGrafe New Member

TLGrafe

Posted
Posted

I am having the exact same issue I have changed mine twice both front and back with no luck at all , it's only the back sensor that's throwing codes it says I have low voltage ?

     I bought mine as a kit from O'Rilley Auto Parts wiring harness front and back sensors!

    I wish someone could help me with this issue. Is it true I can buy a performance tuner and delete the knock sensors?

  • Confused 1
txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

You need to make sure your sensor are torqued correctly. I only use AC Delco parts. Check the wiring farther up the line t make sure it's intact

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