Level or lift 2015 2500HD

corn18 · March 26, 2020

Wanted to see what the front end geometry does if I decide to level the truck. Stock has a pretty good rake and it takes 2.25" of front lift to level the truck. I also looked at an intermediate level of 1 3/8". Here's the pics:

Stock, 1 3/8" lift, 2.25" lift

To my eye, level looks best. But I would have to bag it for towing. I'm ok with that.

Now let's look at the front end to see if I can just crank the torsion keys to level it, or if I need more. (stock, 1 3/8", 2.25")

Dang, anyone who just levels it with a new torsion key is really doggin' the UCA and the drive shaft. If I went full level, I would do a diff drop and get new UCAs.

But I think that intermediate position @ 1 3/8" is OK. It improves the look a bit, I shouldn't need bags for towing and the suspension bits look OK. I have the torsion keys on the way so I think I will do just over an inch with them and check things out. If I want to go full level, I will add the diff drop, new UCAs and bag the rear end (adding $800 to the bill).

Would appreciate any thoughts from the collective FR experience.

Corn

gearheadesw · March 26, 2020

You, sir, are correct. Your'e on the right track. Running skinny 35's with keys, diff drop, 5160's with shock spacer, BDS steering stabilizer, UCA's, rear bags, and a bumper that lets nothing touch. I added the ready Lift UCA's at the end, and they made all the difference in the world for ride. They freed up the front suspension movement, got the alighnment back on track. I get in and out of my truck like 50 times a day it seems, so I don't want a lift, just a little level, and I'm good. Hope you figure out what you want, these are great trucks.

corn18 · March 27, 2020

Well, I think I am going to lower the rear and throw bags on. A lot simpler and cheaper. If I don’t like it I can always raise the front.

corn18 · March 27, 2020

Rear shackles are in. That was easy. Love it. Now to put the air bags on and adjust the headlights. It’s sitting perfectly level with the ground now.

Edited March 27, 2020 by Tom Hole

Icutmetl · April 1, 2020

I liked your 1-3/8” look the best, personally. I’m going to do 1” at both ends with mine. How are you liking the Grabber ATX’s?

corn18 · April 2, 2020

51 minutes ago, Icutmetl said:

I liked your 1-3/8” look the best, personally. I’m going to do 1” at both ends with mine. How are you liking the Grabber ATX’s?

The Grabber ATX's seem fine. Like all things, the AT aspect is a trade off. It feels like a truck. It doesn't drive like it's on rails like our BMWs. They aren't too noisy. They'll work. I think when these wear out I may look at 20" rims.

corn18 · April 2, 2020

After driving it around for a while with the drop shackle level, I like the look of the front end lift much better. But the rear end lower is more practical for me right now. We are looking at 5th wheels and lowering the rear and adding bags provides better clearance. And it sure is easier to get in the bed with it lowered.

corn18 · April 3, 2020

Sorry to keep replying to myself but wanted to add more data.

1. Stock = 2.5" rake

2. Rear drop shackles = level

3. Add air bags = 3/4" rake

I was doing some other stuff to the truck and thought I would see if there was anything available on the stock torsion keys to get back to level. Sure enough, I got 3/4" lift with about 2 turns on the stock key bolt. I took it for a test drive expecting it to be rougher than before but it was actually better. I guess after 5 years, the torsion bars might have needed some tightening.

So I am happy with this setup. 3/4" front lift with a few turns on the stock torsion keys. Drop shackle in the rear with airbags.

Now I need to find something else to futz with.

Edited April 3, 2020 by Tom Hole

MNorby · April 7, 2020

I originally considered lowering the rear of mine but ultimately lifted the front roughly 1.5" (7 turns of T-bar bolt) because I was concerned how airbag might react being compressed more from the get go. I also did the diff drop as well.

corn18 · June 4, 2020

UPDATE: Decided to drop the front back down to stock. It was bone jarring at the higher tension setting on the torsion bars. Much better now. I can't imagine the death ride you would get if you cranked the torsion bars all the way up to get 2"+ of lift.

Icutmetl · June 18, 2020

On 6/4/2020 at 12:30 PM, Tom Hole said:

UPDATE: Decided to drop the front back down to stock. It was bone jarring at the higher tension setting on the torsion bars. Much better now. I can't imagine the death ride you would get if you cranked the torsion bars all the way up to get 2"+ of lift.

Are you saying your ride went to crap with only the 3/4” of height you’d added to your front end, or am I misunderstanding?

corn18 · June 18, 2020

3 minutes ago, Icutmetl said:

Are you saying your ride went to crap with only the 3/4” of height you’d added to your front end, or am I misunderstanding?

I'm saying it was worse with 3/4" of height added to the front with the tension thingies.

Jacob Kuehl · June 22, 2020

wow. I was going to crank up my keys 1" but maybe I wont...

corn18 · June 22, 2020

Just now, Jacob Kuehl said:

wow. I was going to crank up my keys 1" but maybe I wont...

I would give it a go. Real easy to do and undo, so if you don't like it, you can easily go back to stock.

Zasker1 · July 16, 2020

What size tires are you running on your setup.

I just bought a 2016 LBZ, it has 265/60r20's on it at present, but I would like to put a 275/65 r20 on it.

The 265's look a bit too narrow

I'm hoping the increase in aspect of a 65 will give me a little bit better ride quality.

The truck has 85k on it so I was going to go ahead and replace the junk rancho shocks with fox shocks, turn the keys up 1.25 in and call it a day.

Unfortunately the aftermarket rims I believe have a zero offset so they're already sticking out a little bit in fact as you can see from the pictures the 265 just about rubs..

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