Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My differential seems to be 3/4 off to one side in other words if you compare rear side one tire sticks out a little more then the driver side anybody notice this my truck is a 2020 custom trail boss if anybody could measure there’s to see if this is normal

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Is it your axle or you bed? A lot of people on here complain about misaligned beds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No it’s axle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Really........only 3/4" on a mass produced truck?

 

Forget how it looks, what is important is geometry. It's not the distance from fender to tire it is same measurement from the edge of the leaf spring or the shackle to each wheel hub that determines if the rear axle is centralized. And then the wheels on the rear axle must be aligned with the wheels on the front axle otherwise the vehicle will "crab" down the road.

 

Quick and dirty test is to drive straight ahead on a wet surface and observe the tracks left by the vehicle - they must be one tire wide, i.e. the rears exactly overlap the fronts. If wider the axles are not aligned, vehicle is crabbing and front and/or rear axle adjustment and front wheel alignment is required. If axles are aligned but it still "looks" off, you don't shift the axle, you shift the bed and split the difference 3/8" so it "looks" better and live with it......really 3/4" on a Chevy????
 

Posted

93a76d9c5e634256789e8f4362e00770.jpg
Passenger side

a2b70f74d4d5cace0eea23c0ba656caa.jpg
Driver side this measurements are against the frame


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
93a76d9c5e634256789e8f4362e00770.jpg

Passenger side

 

a2b70f74d4d5cace0eea23c0ba656caa.jpg

Driver side this measurements are against the frame

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First things first: you need to use the same lug on the tire to get your measurements. Can’t measure on one that runs out the whole width of the tire against one that doesn’t. They need to be the same.

 

2nd: looks like it might be off by half an inch.

 

I don’t know why people look at these things. I haven’t looked at the bed or my rear axle because I don’t want to know if it’s off

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, Julio13 said:

 

My differential seems to be 3/4 off to one side in other words if you compare rear side one tire sticks out a little more then the driver side anybody notice this my truck is a 2020 custom trail boss if anybody could measure there’s to see if this is normal

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

The only proper way to measure this will be with the wheel off and using a level against the face of the axle shaft.  Or have the alignment checked as something could show up in the thrust angle measurements. 

 

Your tires are creating too much variance here.  Is the truck driving funny or anything?  I guess I'm not sure what the worry is.  

Posted

I’m measuring of the frame not driving bad at all but that’s why I’m asking if this is same on other trucks don’t need tire wear or other problems down the road


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
Posted

You are clearly measuring it differently. There are two different lugs on the tire tread. They are staggered. You are measuring one in and one out...your not measuring the same outside lug. But as other have explained, you need to measure the axle not tires. I dont think you have any issue. An alignment shop will tell you immediately.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Probably a one and done post, but do you have a CEL on the dash? Was having issues with my transmission, fortunately only a week, and it turned out to be the transmission harness. Valve body was in good shape, so new harness with all the sensors attached, new fluid, and filter. Seems to have worked so far?
    • Two interesting tidbits of information which are NOT related were just released.   One, regarding the possible thrust bearing issues / engine failures with the 3.0. Demonworks just did a segment in which they believe they may have found "a" or "the" cause of thrust bearing failures: A missing thrust bearing. If the engine doesn't have all its thrust bearings from the factory, the missing bearing can cause extra play which ends up destroying a nearby thrust bearing which then sends metal through the engine.       Of other importance, Lake Speed Jr released some interest information regarding oil weight selection for the 3.0. Comparisons of:   AcDelco 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w30 Mobil 1 ESP x4 0w40. Mobil Delvac 5w40   Spoiler alert: The Mobils are PAO Ester -base and the ACDelco is a Group III base. Mobil shows lower wear in their tests for similar weights. Additive packages between 20-30-40 weight ESP's appear to be the same, but only 0w20 is Dexos D licensed. Wear is even more reduced with 30 and 40 weight ESP although all perform very well and resist shear and provide very similar viscosities within temperature operating ranges in the 3.0.   There are even more surprises, so just go watch it.    
    • Hello Guys I'm new to the form,         I just put a 7-inch Rough Country lift on my 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 and I also put a Borla exhaust on it. But I noticed when I'm in park or in neutral and then I rev my truck up really quick there is a bad click noise and I think it's coming from the motor somewhere. Anyways I got a video of it I will attach below I was just wondering if you guys think its rod knock or lifter tick or something like that because I know the AFM kind of made the lifters weak on these trucks.       Thanks!!!!! RIP - Chevy 5.3 IMG_6043.mov    
    • We’ll have to agree to disagree. I didn’t experience or know anyone who had a decent car after 100K miles in the 60s through the 80s that were daily commuter vehicles. Unless they were collector vehicles. Of course things cost more due to inflation. But we also make more money. The biggest money drains these days are things people think they need today versus what we require back in the day. Like cell phones and internet as examples. Another example is where you live. Cost of living varies from state to state. I would need twice the money to live in NJ vs Texas in retirement. The car you recently purchased was less than my first car with inflation at 3000$ in 1973. I didn’t have air, electric windows, cruise etc. Purchasing power is equivalent, you just have to do the research. 
    • Sierra HD Pro:   - If you want a power driver's seat on the Pro, you can't get it.  You have to go to SLE.   - Factory remote start?  Can't get it on any of the Sierra Pro trim (1500 or HD).  You have to go SLE.     - 7 inch radio has limitations for replacement if you wanted to upgrade the screen, etc.    - Steering wheel radio controls?  Nope.  Can you add them?  Yes.  NOT CHEAP.  Requires a new instrument cluster, steering wheel and wiring harness mod kit.     - Fog lights?  Nope.  And no factory path to install them.    Sierra HD SLE:   - IMO, the larger radio screen is a much better interface.   - Fog lights?  You can get them.  Steering wheel controls?  Has them.  Remote start?  Yep.  Power driver seat?  Available.       Silverado WT:   - Same as the Pro above however you CAN get factory remote start installed at the dealer for the WT Chevy.     Silverado Custom:   - Comes with 20" wheels only.  Can you swap later?  Sure.  But.  Truck is calibrated for the stock 20s (34" tire) and no path to properly recalibrate.     - Power seat?  Yes.   - Steering wheel controls?  Same as the Pro above.  No but can be done and not cheap.     Silverado LT:   - Same as the SLE.  You can get or it comes with many features you can't do on the lower trims.       I'd say its all going to come down to what you NEED and what you WANT to have that you'd benefit from.  For me, things like power seat is a must (I hate the WT/Pro seating position), so I'd have to go Custom, LT or SLE right out of the gate.  Steering wheel controls?  Should be standard in 2026 across the board IMO, so again, puts me to LT or SLE.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...