Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The camera I'm talking about is the one that comes on when you have a trailer connected and a turn signal is on. I recently installed a camper top so I thought this camera view might be handy since I don't have a good rear view mirror picture. I took a test plug for the 7 wire trailer connector and hooked it up and now the truck thinks a trailer is hooked up so the camera comes on when a turn signal is activated. I think this will come in handy when changing lanes on the highway. Not breaking news but thought I'd let everyone know

Posted

Doesn’t that also disable rear park assist, cross traffic alert and lane change alert though? Every time I plug a trailer into my 19, that stuff is automatically turned off.

Posted

Following this thread as well.  I tried a digital trailer plug tester and it did not trigger my cameras to come on with the turn signal.  A great feature but not at the expense of turning off other features.  I'm interested in what others find here.  

Posted (edited)

I'm very interested in this....

I don't have the safety package so not concerned about that.......does this work on every Silverado with the 7-pin trailer connector?

Anything else it might affect?

 

Cool....?

Edited by BigMick2020
Posted

I am sure this does disable bunch of features too, but I am wondering if there is a better way than leaving something plugged in. Maybe wire of the ground to something will make it think something is connected.

Posted

I did not have a front camera so I did a similar thing using the interior trailer input for the front camera.  Since the camera will not work without a trailer hooked up, I have a toggle switch under the dash connecting a light to the trailer harness that turns the camera on and off.  The only time I use the front camera is off road to see what is right in front of the bumper.  Leaving the switch off keeps the rear park alert system working and you can turn the camera on and off at anytime.  Only bad thing is the interior trailer camera input is inverted like the rear trailer camera. Don't have a fix for that.

Posted
9 hours ago, 2020 SLT owner said:

I did not have a front camera so I did a similar thing using the interior trailer input for the front camera.  Since the camera will not work without a trailer hooked up, I have a toggle switch under the dash connecting a light to the trailer harness that turns the camera on and off.  The only time I use the front camera is off road to see what is right in front of the bumper.  Leaving the switch off keeps the rear park alert system working and you can turn the camera on and off at anytime.  Only bad thing is the interior trailer camera input is inverted like the rear trailer camera. Don't have a fix for that.

Would you mind identifying which pins triggers the vehicle for trailer hookup? 

Posted

#1 white is ground.  #3 brown tail light.  #5 Left turn.  #6 green Right turn.  Any one of the lights to ground using a non LED or an LED with enough load will trigger the trailer cameras.  I used a 3 pole switch and switched all 3 lights.  I found you get a couple more light error messages.  the messages do not affect anything.  Just ignore or dismiss.  When you turn the switch off, the trailer disconnected message appears.

I used a Curt connector that gives you the jack in the bed of the truck for 5th wheel hook up.  I spliced into those wires so there is no disturbing factory wiring.  The four conductor shielded wire ran with the wiring along the passenger side and came up thru the passenger side panel and over to the drivers side under the dash.  I made an angle iron bracket that I drilled to match a plastic bracket that is there and has a 3/8 hole.

 

I wish I would have located the 5th wheel trailer jack on the same side as the 110 volt outlet.  I positioned the jack so the swing up handle would miss it, but if a plug is in there the handle cannot be swung up without removing it.  I don't have a 5th wheel but a 7 pin to 12 volt adapter gives me a source for my electric refer or coffee pot since the 110 volt 400 watt inverter outlet is too wimpy to do much.

 

I have a 2020 1500 SLT without the Tech package.  I do have the bed view camera with the two trailer camera inputs.  Reading all the post, it seems the cameras work different for different trims.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 6/3/2020 at 6:03 PM, 2020 SLT owner said:

#1 white is ground.  #3 brown tail light.  #5 Left turn.  #6 green Right turn.  Any one of the lights to ground using a non LED or an LED with enough load will trigger the trailer cameras.  I used a 3 pole switch and switched all 3 lights.  I found you get a couple more light error messages.  the messages do not affect anything.  Just ignore or dismiss.  When you turn the switch off, the trailer disconnected message appears.

I used a Curt connector that gives you the jack in the bed of the truck for 5th wheel hook up.  I spliced into those wires so there is no disturbing factory wiring.  The four conductor shielded wire ran with the wiring along the passenger side and came up thru the passenger side panel and over to the drivers side under the dash.  I made an angle iron bracket that I drilled to match a plastic bracket that is there and has a 3/8 hole.

 

I wish I would have located the 5th wheel trailer jack on the same side as the 110 volt outlet.  I positioned the jack so the swing up handle would miss it, but if a plug is in there the handle cannot be swung up without removing it.  I don't have a 5th wheel but a 7 pin to 12 volt adapter gives me a source for my electric refer or coffee pot since the 110 volt 400 watt inverter outlet is too wimpy to do much.

 

I have a 2020 1500 SLT without the Tech package.  I do have the bed view camera with the two trailer camera inputs.  Reading all the post, it seems the cameras work different for different trims.

 

I have purchased Tow Ready 20142 7-Way as you have suggested from another post, this works flawless! Do you have a picture, part number or a link to purchase the curt connector you are referring to? I also want to do a switch, but maybe using the signal switch with relay, so they work without needing to flip a switch

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

On 5/28/2020 at 6:57 PM, morrislee said:

I am sure this does disable bunch of features too, but I am wondering if there is a better way than leaving something plugged in. Maybe wire of the ground to something will make it think something is connected.

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/1/2023 at 6:02 PM, Tom L M said:

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

 

Add a normally closed relay in series with ground and controlled by a lead from backup light.

Posted
On 5/1/2023 at 6:02 PM, Tom L M said:

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

 

 

Posted

Install a normally closed contact relay in series with the ground and light leads connected together.  Connect the relay coil to the backup light switched lead.

     While driving forward ground is connected to three bypass lights.  While in reverse backup light circuit is activated thereby activating NC relay which opens ground to the three bypass lights, WALAA, disconnecting cameras and the system no longer thinks there is a trailer back there.

uxcell JD-1914 5 Pin DC 12V 40A

on Amazon 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...