Jump to content

Shift to park message after shut down.

Unclebud87
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

gemarsh
gemarsh

You said put your finger in there. HEH, HEH       

Scott in Maine
Scott in Maine

I have this problem too, so thank you for your posts. The problem had been intermittent, and annoying. And murphy’s law, it didn’t show up when I took the truck to the dealer for the repair; no codes

Posted Images

James Tiffin New Member

James Tiffin

Posted
Posted

Same thing has happened on my ‘22 Silverado Z71 RST. Started around 30k miles. I’ve been following this thread, for over a year now, thinking maybe GM would come up with a fix. My switch was initially intermittent, happening only occasionally, no pattern to it…I pulled the cover off the steering column, bent the metal tab just enough to make more contact with the switch (careful not to break the plastic lugs holding it in the frame. I had to super glue it back). Well, last week it started all over, 55k miles now. But now the switch won’t work at all. I’m not paying the dealer to troubleshoot an alert that tells me to put the truck in park. 

 

So I cut and nutted the wires together.
 

Problem solved. Save yourself the hassle and money. Just don’t rely on your vehicle to tell you it’s not in park lol. 
 

I’m not your mechanic. 

 

For those curious, I did attach a pic of the numbers on the switch I cut off. If you can find the actual replacement, let me know. 

IMG_4589.jpeg

IMG_4590.jpeg

James McLaughlin Enthusiast

James McLaughlin

Posted
Posted

Exactly the same problem [And Solution ] I had on my 19' GMC Elevation.  GM has no solution to this problem short of changing the entire assembly.   Pretty sad when a $10 part would cost you $400 +- through GM to get fixed. 

 

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted (edited)

.....................

Edited by elcamino
rel3rd New Member

rel3rd

Posted
Posted
On 8/31/2024 at 7:59 PM, James Tiffin said:

Same thing has happened on my ‘22 Silverado Z71 RST. Started around 30k miles. I’ve been following this thread, for over a year now, thinking maybe GM would come up with a fix. My switch was initially intermittent, happening only occasionally, no pattern to it…I pulled the cover off the steering column, bent the metal tab just enough to make more contact with the switch (careful not to break the plastic lugs holding it in the frame. I had to super glue it back). Well, last week it started all over, 55k miles now. But now the switch won’t work at all. I’m not paying the dealer to troubleshoot an alert that tells me to put the truck in park. 

 

So I cut and nutted the wires together.
 

Problem solved. Save yourself the hassle and money. Just don’t rely on your vehicle to tell you it’s not in park lol. 
 

I’m not your mechanic. 

 

For those curious, I did attach a pic of the numbers on the switch I cut off. If you can find the actual replacement, let me know. 

IMG_4589.jpeg

IMG_4590.jpeg

I did the same, a year ago. Works great, Cost : $0

  • 1 month later...
Recon55 New Member

Recon55

Posted
Posted

Same thing happened to my 2019 Trail Boss. I decided to take a cheap alternative than a jumper or buying a replacement part.

 

GM part numbers for the Automatic Transmission Control (micro switch not sold separately) for about $140.

84797128
84800776
85565585
85515701
86564191 (Most Current)

 

I detached the micro switch and used a zip tie in case I ever want to return it back to factory. Some people have had luck by bending the lever a bit to get it to work more efficiently. I figured it would fail again so a cheap zip tie worked fine for me. Then I tucked it neatly.

 

20241026_140516.jpg

20241026_140845.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
TXPO New Member

TXPO

Posted
Posted

Fellas…this thread was extremely helpful! Been having this problem for about 3 weeks with my 2020 TB. Took it to the dealer only to find that I was out of warranty by 1600 miles. Went home, Fired up the computer to research the problem and eventually found this thread. Like most of y’all, I just now bypassed the micro switch and all is right with the world again. I doubt I’ll do anything more unless an unforeseen issue arises. Thanks again!

  • 3 weeks later...
C. Alesce New Member

C. Alesce

Posted
Posted

I have a 2021 Duramax Silverado and it started doing the same thing. The dealership wants about 850.00 dollars to put another shifter assembly.GM needs to have a recall on this.

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted
On 1/28/2025 at 8:38 PM, C. Alesce said:

I have a 2021 Duramax Silverado and it started doing the same thing. The dealership wants about 850.00 dollars to put another shifter assembly.GM needs to have a recall on this.

Our team understands how this concern with your 2021 Silverado has been difficult and we would like to take the time to investigate further on our end. Please send us an email to [email protected]. Be sure to include your Username and Forum name in the subject line with additional details. We look forward to your email. 

  • 3 weeks later...
C. Alesce New Member

C. Alesce

Posted
Posted

I have a 2021 duramax 1500 Silverado and it started to do it. Dealership wants 800 dollars to replace the shifter assembly but I am wondering will that will fix the problem 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,863
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Bulldogger
    Newest Member
    Bulldogger
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 791 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I figured you would know about it.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      It added a cost layer to an already limited production supply. True that. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Swap costs and supply/demand balance. When a barrel comes out of the ground the entire range of products are present but not all at the same percentage.    Breakdown of Refined Products The following table summarizes the approximate output from a standard 42-gallon barrel of crude oil: Product Type Gallons per Barrel Percentage of Total Gasoline 20 gallons 45% Diesel Fuel 9 gallons 21% Other Products 13 gallons 31%   Most of that diesel figure is 'straight run' or cut from the barrel. Gasoline 'cut from the barrel runs 0 to 20% at the crude. So in the crude unit there is more diesel the gasoline, usually.  The full refining experience however gives the tabled values. Ego there is half the diesel than gasoline after the 'first crack' That could be an FCC unit, or Isomax or....   Those units take heavy products and break the big ones into little ones. Those numbers are harder to get hold of but directionally it ends up the same.    Really light products are very profitable. Ethylene and Propylene to name two. Those are cracked from slightly heavier feeds like NG and Propane and Ethane. The cracker harshness determines the feed for distillation. Those feeds come from less profitable products like diesel and gasoline.    So...there is a swap cost. How much market is there TODAY and what crude am I running TODAY..... what is my process capable of always.    There is this as well. The USA uses allot more gasoline than it does diesel so in the cracker the process is tilted to gasoline production which....limits supply of diesel. OTR uses the most and it has different requirements than automotive and agricultural.  Limiting auto products.    You are correct however. It is less refined, just less of it. Allot less. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...