Jump to content

adding 360 surround view, UVI (Trailer Camera) package to UVS (Surround/invisible Trailer) Upgrade 2020 Silverado RST

Rally6.2RST
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rally6.2RST Enthusiast

Rally6.2RST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You know what you could do... you could get a oem video mirror and  mount a rear view mirror camera in grille.  When you want to see front of truck you can toggle video mirror on.

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rally6.2RST
Rally6.2RST

I have a 2020 Silverado RST.  I have the UVI trailer camera package (bed view, rear camera and 2 trailer camera provisions).  I really liked look of my RST and I really liked UVS (surround view with t

fdagen
fdagen

I was able to complete this modification to my truck. It is amazing especially for trailering! Thank you Jarett and WAMS! Here are a couple of my lessons learned. This may be common knowledge to some,

Rally6.2RST
Rally6.2RST

Posted Images

MrMagloo Enthusiast

MrMagloo

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Rally6.2RST said:

You know what you could do... you could get a oem video mirror and  mount a rear view mirror camera in grille.  When you want to see front of truck you can toggle video mirror on.

 

Wow, that's an interesting thought. Is this the camera that highmounts in the CHMSL?  Does the camera tie directly into the mirror or is another processor box required?

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
SKEETER1978 Enthusiast

SKEETER1978

Posted
Posted

I recently did this to my 2023 GMC at4hd.  I already had the bed camera so i found a great deal on a vpu that came out of a 2021 chevy 2500hd $54. I bought the front camera from ebay $53, a r-side camera, mount and lower mirror trim for the right side (you can buy every part for the mirror except the lower trim the cam mounts to its crazy) $100, and i bought a brand new damaged l-side mirror assembly that i stripped of parts i needed and some i will save as spare parts $150....i ordered the double Farka connectors from the site listed on this thread and the the same wires listed. I did drive around with only the front camera connected for a week or two and added the right side camera for a couple more weeks without any problems. Somebody told me this would not work and my screen would go blank but mine worked fine while i was waiting for a deal on missing parts. I have not programed my vcm yet... my local dealer will do it for 1hr labor (199.00)...I'm waiting because im a Acura tech and we just got a gm scan tool for the new ZDX (aka blazer ev)  I was told i should have full access to gm vehicles too so i will wait a see. Either way the camera angles are only off a bit and it even has my gmc truck on the screen not a chevy like i thought it would.

Now if only the trailer cameras where cheaper  id give that a try 

thanks for the people who started this worked great... if i can be any help ill try

  • Like 1
cheapie408 Enthusiast

cheapie408

Posted
Posted
On 1/14/2024 at 5:59 PM, DanTerrapin said:

I am curious did the factory mirror wiring have the provisions for the camera or did you need to run additional wiring to them? 

If you don't have to do OEM, buy a 3  channel mirror dashcam and you can install the camera anywhere you want. I bought an el cheapo mirror on amazon that came with 3 cameras, I mounted one on the rear windows, one on the front windshield and the reverse camera was installed in the grill. This gives me a bed view as well as it acts as a video rear view mirror but the best part of it is now I have a camera at grill to help me park. 

  • 3 months later...
Packed-out-ltz New Member

Packed-out-ltz

Posted
Posted

So I have a 22.5 ltz, it's the "refreshed model", I want to add a bed view cam. Is that already provided in the module it currently has? Also would I need to do any programming for the head unit to kno/give me a digital button to use the bed view within the radio itself? 

  • 11 months later...
KyleWesner24 New Member

KyleWesner24

Posted
Posted

Hate to bump in once more on an old thread, but I wanted to pop in with a quick question. 

I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 High Country that has the VPM, but does not have the side left and right camera views. I have everything else such as the backup, bed, hitch, and trailer camera options. I am looking to add the front camera and the left and right side cameras. Would it work the same way if I would purchase the driver and passenger side mirrors with cameras, the 10 channel VPM, the front camera, and all 3 wires to hook up

the sides and front? Would I be able to achieve the HD surround vision? Just trying to achieve the HD surround vision as my backup camera seems so stretched as it take up the entire screen. Would most likely be sending it to WAMS to reprogram once I get the VPM and all parts in. It almost seems like it was programmed to be in a split view. Any information and help is much appreciated. Thanks!

KyleWesner24 New Member

KyleWesner24

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, KyleWesner24 said:

Hate to bump in once more on an old thread, but I wanted to pop in with a quick question. 

I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 High Country that has the VPM, but does not have the side left and right camera views. I have everything else such as the backup, bed, hitch, and trailer camera options. I am looking to add the front camera and the left and right side cameras. Would it work the same way if I would purchase the driver and passenger side mirrors with cameras, the 10 channel VPM, the front camera, and all 3 wires to hook up

the sides and front? Would I be able to achieve the HD surround vision? Just trying to achieve the HD surround vision as my backup camera seems so stretched as it take up the entire screen. Would most likely be sending it to WAMS to reprogram once I get the VPM and all parts in. It almost seems like it was programmed to be in a split view. Any information and help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Willing to even connect with someone that would be willing to on social media to make chatting easier and show pictures of what I have, the parts I’ve bought secondhand, and what I am trying to achieve. 

  • 7 months later...
Rally6.2RST Enthusiast

Rally6.2RST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes. That is exactly the upgrade I did on my 2020.  Wams programed.  If your lucky you can find a vpm that matches your trucks specs you may not need to program.

  • 5 months later...
Carlos Eduardo Silva Enthusiast

Carlos Eduardo Silva

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bring this old post back.....

@Rally6.2RST in your list of part, you bought a "1 camera I used for rear ($70) 23390514", why exactly did you buy it ? Asking because your car already had a read camera, right ?

 

Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Never mind, I saw that you used it to build your own Trailer Rear Camera, well done man

Edited by Carlos Eduardo Silva
rbau Enthusiast

rbau

Posted
Posted
On 7/31/2026 at 8:35 PM, Carlos Eduardo Silva said:

Does anyone have the wire connect diagram? I'm getting a 10 channels VPM but I don't know where to connect each camera.

Carlos

For questions like yours GMUpfitter DOT com is a fantastic resource.

Attached a wiring diagram for the K157 Video Processor.

Diagram should apply to all '20 - '22 NON-REFRESH 1500's.

HIGHLY recommend you download the electrical section

for your year pick-up and verify this info for yourself.

20_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_K157.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...