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'Invisible' trailer camera calibration.

Wbrisett
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MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

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The angle of the camera does correct.  The image from the trailer looks distorted/fish eye.  It needs to be rotated down about 35 degrees.  Start with the camera eye level pointing straight back, then rotate down 35 degrees.  I usually rotate the camera down until I can see the trailer, then move it up one click.  It also will not calibrate in low light situations (night/dusk/rain/snow/etc).

 

#iworkforGM 

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MTU Alum
MTU Alum

You should only need to calibrate once.  I'll ask around see if there are any issues that may cause this.   #iworkforGM 

Plympat
Plympat

I’m new to this conversation, but going thru similar issues.  Mounted rear camera on the tail of my 30’ travel trailer yesterday, paying attention to getting it mounted on the sweet spot.  Entered all

MTU Alum
MTU Alum

Well, I got the first I heard of that.  As long as you select your trailer profile with the dimensions save in it, you should not have to recalibrate as long as you don't change a dimension or the cam

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MikeZ65 Enthusiast

MikeZ65

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On 9/21/2020 at 9:22 PM, MTU Alum said:

The angle of the camera does correct.  The image from the trailer looks distorted/fish eye.  It needs to be rotated down about 35 degrees.  Start with the camera eye level pointing straight back, then rotate down 35 degrees.  I usually rotate the camera down until I can see the trailer, then move it up one click.  It also will not calibrate in low light situations (night/dusk/rain/snow/etc).

 

#iworkforGM 

I adjusted camera and then drove about 5000 feet but progress bar never even started. Is there a way to force it into invisible so I can see how it looks other than driving around until it times out on calibrating?

 

thx again

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
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You are getting past my knowledge.  I probably would either adjust one of the dimensions to force a calibration restart or create a new trailer profile.  

 

#iworkforGM 

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
Posted
On ‎9‎/‎24‎/‎2020 at 6:16 AM, MikeZ65 said:

I adjusted camera and then drove about 5000 feet but progress bar never even started. Is there a way to force it into invisible so I can see how it looks other than driving around until it times out on calibrating?

 

thx again

I had to restart the calibration about 5 times before it started and then drive about 4 miles before the status bar finished.  The instructions say "just begin to move forward".  Not even close for me, I tried the open road, and neighborhoods seemed to work the best to get it started and finished. 

Wbrisett Enthusiast

Wbrisett

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Calibration is a pain. Maybe @MTU Alum can comment on this, but I'm curious where the calibration is stored. I ask this because when I do get my camera calibrated the minute the power is removed (aka turn off the vehicle), I loose calibration and the camera has to go through the calibration again. I've seen some people have this issue and others don't. Which then leads me to question is this a hardware issue with the camera (some think it may be), or is this something that can be changed in the firmware of the truck itself? It seems fairly pointless to get things calibrated, then have recalibrate over-and-over again. 

sdelam Enthusiast

sdelam

Posted
Posted

Mine calibrates every key cycle, I leave the truck running when fueling to keep from loosing the calibration.

Plympat Enthusiast

Plympat

Posted
Posted (edited)

I’m new to this conversation, but going thru similar issues.  Mounted rear camera on the tail of my 30’ travel trailer yesterday, paying attention to getting it mounted on the sweet spot.  Entered all my trailer’s dimensions.  Got a good picture from the rear camera on my infocenter display in the cab.  Went to calibrate for invisible trailer view, nothing happened...  Got the display message “drive ahead to calibrate”, but no bar moving across the bottom.  Did some Google research, stumbled across some good info on myGMC.com (use myChevy.com if yours is a Chevy).  Search for “Transparent Trailer calibration”.  Why they used transparent instead of invisible is anyone’s guess.  Anyway, it says:

 

Tips

• Remove items from the back of your trailer (i.e. a spare tire, bike rack, etc.) before you calibrate the system. They can be reinstalled after you finish the process.

 

So, took off my trailer’s spare tire (which was very visible in the rear camera view when mounted) and drove around a bit, and presto, calibration started.  It’s pretty cool once it finally did get calibrated.  I then remounted my spare, but unfortunately, I ran out of time and had to store my trailer where I keep when not in use, so I don’t know if I’ll see the same issue others are having with needing to re-calibrate over and over.  Will let you know once I get it out of storage and head out on a trip next week.  


More info:  took trailer out of storage today, invisible view did not need recalibration.  As I drive home, swapped between “invisible” view and “rear camera” view.  After all the sweating over calibrating “invisible”, and despite being cool, I think the straight rear camera view is better.  More detail.  My opinion.

 

MORE More info: drove 1000 miles MN->MT on Tues/Wed, with several gas/rest stops along the way. First leg, invisible camera view worked ok.  After first gas stop, lost calibration.  Obviously, never came back...  As mentioned above in “More info”, I’m past the invisible idea, gonna stick with just full rear view.  Works great, available full time.  My truck has HUD, so everything else I need is there, leaving big center display for rear camera view.  

Edited by Plympat
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Wbrisett Enthusiast

Wbrisett

Posted
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5 hours ago, Plympat said:

Will let you know once I get it out of storage and head out on a trip next week.  

Please do.  One thing to note, I have found it calibrates better when going under 10 MPH and with something like a curb or lane markers. I'm guessing that those objects are used by the calibration software to ensure better stitching when calibrating. 

sdelam Enthusiast

sdelam

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

You should only need to calibrate once.  I'll ask around see if there are any issues that may cause this.

 

#iworkforGM 

I thought it was normal, appreciate any help.

migrabill Enthusiast

migrabill

Posted
Posted

I know it says go under 30 to calibrate - but mine will only do it if I'm going under 10. I find 7 MPH works best. Real pain.

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted
On 10/2/2020 at 12:08 PM, sdelam said:

I thought it was normal, appreciate any help.

Well, I got the first I heard of that.  As long as you select your trailer profile with the dimensions save in it, you should not have to recalibrate as long as you don't change a dimension or the camera.  They mentioned that some people are pulling the rear camera into the wrong port in the bumper.  If you keep having issues, probably need pictures on transparent image, trailer, and trailer camera location.

 

#iworkforGM 

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sdelam Enthusiast

sdelam

Posted
Posted

Positive I am using the right port. Trailer dimensions haven't changed.  Only other thing I can think of is that I moved the camera from the roof to the correct placement on the ramp door. I did not redo the trailer profile, just assumed once it calibrated the new placement it would be good. Maybe I'll just delete the profile and start over. 

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