Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I need a reliable "beater" work truck and found a 1 owner 2000 Silverado 4.8L 2WD locally on craigslist that looks great and might fit the bill  but it needs a repair. The GM brakelines have rusted out and need to be changed.

 

There isnt much rust besides those corroded lines though and the engine with 75K and transmission are good. It has a nice bed liner, new tires and tow hitch.... and just a few cosmetic issues that dont matter for my purposes.

 

The seller wants 2K or best offer but I am worried about that brake line repair. Im not too comfortable doing it myself. And since it needs repair Im not sure how to make heads or tails out of the KBB value.

 

Is 2K too much for a 20 year old truck in this situation?

 

 

Edited by Mike XXX
Posted

I don't know how to value used trucks, but I can comment on the rusted our brake lines. 

 

You have three choices on the brake lines if you want to do it yourself.  1) Purchase a prebent brake line kit which from what I have read is a real pain in the you know what to install.  2) Purchase steel brake lines (2 sizes if I recall) in 25 foot lengths, rent or buy a brake line flaring kit and replace the existing lines yourself by fishing the brake lines through the body and frame (less hassle than installing prebent lines).  3) Purchase NiCopp brake lines (again, 2 sizes 3/16" and 1/4" if I recall correctly) in 25 foot lengths, rent or purchase a brake line flaring kit, and fish the NiCopp through the frame and body.

 

I've done both 2 and 3, and number 3 is way better and much easier to successfully flair than steel lines.  Steel lines need special tools to bend without kinking, and they can be a royal pain to properly flair.  NiCopp is so much easier to work with and it does not rust such that the few extra dollars it costs over steel makes it a no-brainer.  Also, proper flairs are so much easier to do.

 

I've used NiCopp to replace lines on both my 99 Silverado and 2004 TrailBlazer, and I'll be replacing the lines on a 99 Buick Century and 92 Olds 88 in the coming weeks.  Without NiCopp I would be dreading the jobs.

 

The hardest part will be removing the old lines from the ABS unit, but with some Aero Kroil and patience it can be done.  Just get the right wrenches and go easy.

 

I'll say this, these Silverados seem to go forever with routine maintenance, so if the owner of the truck did regular oil and filter changes and other maintenance as lined out in the Owner's Manual, you will likely not get burned.  Plus, repair parts are plentiful and the engines are fairly easy to work on compared to other vehicles.

 

Good Luck!

Posted

I just started using dorman s.s. lines,easy,hard one is behind the tank,tape the end closed and push and rotate thru the tight area,it goes,and as far as the abs unit,snap all lines off and use a socket on the flare nut

Posted (edited)

I got the prebent nylon coated set of lines from GM a couple years ago, and installed them.  It took some work to get them in right, particularly to get the 4 lines that run along the frame rail from the driver's front wheel to the abs unit in the right order.  The rear line wasn't that hard for me, because I have a cab&chassis, with a wood floor deck, and I can easily remove the boards to work on stuff.  Makes doing fuel & brake lines, and fuel pumps, etc WAY easier to do...

 

If you do get a pre-bent set, double check that it also comes with the lines that go across the rear axle.  The GM kit doesn't, and the lines were NLA separately.  Some third party kits include them, others don't.

Edited by davester
Posted

thanks for the tips.

 

Anyone care to take a stab at value? Or more so, the hit the value would take because of this repair.

 

I am assuming the ABS module/pump is good in this case but maybe factor a bad ABS into the equation as well.

 

 

Posted

If you can't find anything else for that price,buy it,even 3,4yr.old vehicles need something in near future

Posted

$2K for a running and driving V8 full-size pickup with minimal body rust seems like a steal to me. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,778
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    daveishi
    Newest Member
    daveishi
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 793 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Because that is IDIOTIC, much like this question. They've already been forced to do it by past administrations - why would you roll that back when it's a GOOD thing?  WHO IS ARGUING FOR LOWER MILEAGE???? 😂  NOBODY IS!!   I'm certainly not! What I want is RELIABLE vehicles again that are worth the price paid!    I don't get your logic here ...   In 2003 I paid $2,200 for our '86 Grand Marquis. It's STILL running and I've never been inside the engine, aside for the timing cover since it was leaking, so I threw a new timing set in since that makes sense. Transmission is ORIGINAL. Electric pump in the gas tank is ORIGINAL. Rear end is ORIGINAL. I'd have to hit my head REAL hard to want to pay $60k or more for a car that still can't come close to the comfort, seating and storage space, or reliability of this one. Nothing is even in the ball park! Hundreds of thousands of brands and models have been built and sent to the crusher while this one keeps on going!   https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   I've got a whole fleet of cars, motorcycles, and a truck close to this age for summer and winter. No one could pay me enough to buy anything built this century. I have zero use for any it.
    • Since I'm the one who has to fix them when they break, I'll take vehicles over 30 years old all day, EVERY day, over ANY modern crap. Have you attempted any repairs on anything built after 2006? It's a friggin nightmare, and gets worse the newer the model year.    If I had the will or desire, I can make any car of any age outside of a Model T (I don't have THAT much will ...) just as powerful, comfortable, and have all the tech the new stuff does, and get pretty close in mileage, too. I prefer SIMPLICITY. The less the vehicle has, the less to fix WHEN it breaks, not IF.   I'm glad you snot-nosed punks don't like them. More for us, plus that keeps the prices from climbing more than they already have.👍
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...