Jump to content

Check Engine Light


Recommended Posts

Posted

The little engine symbol came on today in the Yukon. It's solid, not blinking. I checked the oil (it's fine) and visually scanned under the hood for any loose hoses & such but came up empty. It's running fine.

 

I can't bring it to the dealer until Friday- I'm just going to run it. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

:shakehead:

Posted

The check engine light is the computers way of saying that a sensor (either mechanical monitoring or emissions) has either sensed a problem or failed. It could be even something as stupid as leaving the gas cap loose or filling the truck up with fuel while the engine is running. As long as the truck is running ok, no performance problems, drive the truck till your appointment.

Posted
It could be even something as stupid as leaving the gas cap loose or filling the truck up with fuel while the engine is running.

That is exactly the first thought that came to my mind. If this is the problem, then make sure the fuel cap is tight and drive the truck for several "cycles" and it should clear the code...

Posted

Hit the OnStar button and have them run a diagnostic (I think SLT comes with OnStar?). Got a check-engine light shortly after I bought my DuraMax, and their diagnostic returned a code for no power to the glow-plug ckt. Quick check found a loose connector.

Posted
It could be even something as stupid as leaving the gas cap loose....

Unfortunately I can admit to having been diagnosed with this problem on my 98 truck. Needless to say I felt like :jester: over it being something so minor and irrelevant. Oh well, live and learn. But now you can be sure I twist until I hear clicks. :shakehead:

Posted

Ahhhhh... the wise members here at GM-TC have proven their worth yet again. My wife unscrewed the gas cap and put it back on again and the light went off shortly thereafter.

 

:lol::uhoh:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 995 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...