Jump to content

Muffler swap, flapper+resonator screen delete

Chips
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chips Enthusiast

Chips

Posted
Posted

Dropped my truck off this morning to get the resonator screens removed. Cutting the section out containing the three screens on each side, welding in 3” pipe . Its roughly a 12” section on each side.

Flapper was removed with stock muffler and a black widow put in place. Just picked it up. It sounds way better with those screens removed , and I also feel like the truck has more bottom end with screens removed .

 

 

Driving at 40km/h , 60km/h and 80km/h. No drone whatsoever. Its shockingly silent in the cab at cruising speeds. 

 

starting thread to upload some videos after work.  

beefin06 Enthusiast

beefin06

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, Chips said:

Dropped my truck off this morning to get the resonator screens removed. Cutting the section out containing the three screens on each side, welding in 3” pipe . Its roughly a 12” section on each side.

Flapper was removed with stock muffler and a black widow put in place. Just picked it up. It sounds way better with those screens removed , and I also feel like the truck has more bottom end with screens removed .

 

 

Driving at 40km/h , 60km/h and 80km/h. No drone whatsoever. Its shockingly silent in the cab at cruising speeds. 

 

starting thread to upload some videos after work.  

Really, no drone at all? That's awesome!

 

Do you have a link to the black widow muffler you purchased?

  • Like 1
AEmedic Enthusiast

AEmedic

Posted
Posted

I am leaning towards a similar change to my 6.2 HC.  Is there any down side of removing the valves? Codes?  I'm not sure what muffler I will choose...I am a fan of Magnaflow.  Are there any inherent flaws to the rest of the OE cat-back system other than the screen, the valves and the quiet muffler? 

Chips Enthusiast

Chips

Posted
  • Author
Posted
39 minutes ago, AEmedic said:

I am leaning towards a similar change to my 6.2 HC.  Is there any down side of removing the valves? Codes?  I'm not sure what muffler I will choose...I am a fan of Magnaflow.  Are there any inherent flaws to the rest of the OE cat-back system other than the screen, the valves and the quiet muffler? 

 

No down side, the flapper should be removed when changing the muffler. The muffler is big, heavy and restrictive . You wont get an aggressive tone with the screens in place , if you have the resonator screens if not and you have an actual resonator then the same thing, it should be removed unless you are after a milder tone.

 

 

 

 

All these components are after any sensors so no issues with codes or anything.

 

Ill post some pictures of how she looks.

 

 

 

 

 

AEmedic Enthusiast

AEmedic

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Chips said:

No down side, the flapper should be removed when changing the muffler. The muffler is big, heavy and restrictive . You wont get an aggressive tone with the screens in place , if you have the resonator screens if not and you have an actual resonator then the same thing, it should be removed unless you are after a milder tone.

 

 

 

 

All these components are after any sensors so no issues with codes or anything.

 

Ill post some pictures of how she looks.

 

 

 

 

 

Is yours a 6.2?  Is yours 3" pipe throughout?

  • 2 weeks later...
EricTheRed Enthusiast

EricTheRed

Posted
Posted
On 7/30/2020 at 4:59 PM, AEmedic said:

Is yours a 6.2?  Is yours 3" pipe throughout?

I think he has a 5.3L because he only mentions one flapper valve and the resonating screens. 

AEmedic Enthusiast

AEmedic

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, EricTheRed said:

I think he has a 5.3L because he only mentions one flapper valve and the resonating screens. 

Thank you.  I did determine what the 6.2L has.  It is 3.5” that necks down to 3” at the flappers at the inlet and outlet of the muffler then back to 3.5” till it reaches the Y at the axle.

Spyderwebb Enthusiast

Spyderwebb

Posted
Posted

Very tempted as well, I've found an AFE for $110 (out of stock) at American Trucks) and a Magnaflow for $178 (in stock), debating on if the Magnaflow is the better option, but it's just a straight pipe????  Otherwise, just worried about the sound with the variable cylinder deactivation !

Chips Enthusiast

Chips

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Spyderwebb said:

Very tempted as well, I've found an AFE for $110 (out of stock) at American Trucks) and a Magnaflow for $178 (in stock), debating on if the Magnaflow is the better option, but it's just a straight pipe????  Otherwise, just worried about the sound with the variable cylinder deactivation !

So it depend what you are looking for . I can tell you the 2020 trucks are way way quieter than the 2018 . Im not quite sure what they did .

 

For myself I probably should have straight piped it. My Black Widow setup is nice and fairly loud. But its still not near my 2018 with the same exact setup.

 

im convinced you just cant make them loud , maybe a straight pipe?

 

With the resonance pipes removed and the flapper removed , Black Widow Race Venom it sounds good, not loud at all unless cold start, in cab noise is noticeable at 100 km/h to 115 km/h after 115 it goes away. Under that or over that range its quiet in cab.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,278 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...