Jump to content

Wireless charging not working

bkesting
 Share

Recommended Posts

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado LTZ that had factory wireless charging in it.  A month or so ago, my old android phone quit charging on the wireless center console, thought maybe my phone was going bad, didn't think much of it.  A while back I had ordered the newer wireless charger (the one with the three coils instead of just one) from GM and got it installed. My phone still will not charge.  One of my kids just got a new iPhone SE and it also will not charge.  What might be the issue here?  Is there a specific fuse that I should check? I didn't see a specific fuse mentioned for this in the owner's manual.  Anything else?

 

Thanks

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted
49 minutes ago, bkesting said:

Anyone got any advice?

Swap out your console charging unit for the Gen 2 charger. The underside of the lid is held on with clips that pry off and expose the charger. The Gen 1 charger had issues apparently, maybe yours went completely bad. Here's a new one listed on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-2018-Cadillac-Wireless-Charger-Charging-Retrofit-iPhone-X-Android/283110063260

Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted

Well. I installed the updated wireless charger and my iPhone 11 Pro was charging until a few months ago. It’s hit or miss if it wants to charge. It recognizes that there is a charger there but won’t charge. I’d say it works about 10% of the time. My wife’s new iPhone pro does the same thing. The funny thing my sons IPhone XS charges just fine every time. I’m wondering if it’s something with a software update and the pros hardware. As for iPhones this has been discussed on previous threads. No solid conclusion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, midwestdenaliguy said:

Swap out your console charging unit for the Gen 2 charger. The underside of the lid is held on with clips that pry off and expose the charger. The Gen 1 charger had issues apparently, maybe yours went completely bad. Here's a new one listed on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-2018-Cadillac-Wireless-Charger-Charging-Retrofit-iPhone-X-Android/283110063260

I have put in the Gen 2 charger.  My old android won't charge and my son has a new iPhone SE and it also does not charge.

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted

 

2 hours ago, Bob2C said:

Well. I installed the updated wireless charger and my iPhone 11 Pro was charging until a few months ago. It’s hit or miss if it wants to charge. It recognizes that there is a charger there but won’t charge. I’d say it works about 10% of the time. My wife’s new iPhone pro does the same thing. The funny thing my sons IPhone XS charges just fine every time. I’m wondering if it’s something with a software update and the pros hardware. As for iPhones this has been discussed on previous threads. No solid conclusion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

21 minutes ago, bkesting said:

I have put in the Gen 2 charger.  My old android won't charge and my son has a new iPhone SE and it also does not charge.

 

Yikes, looks like GM missed the mark with the Gen 2 chargers as well. Never mind about the OEM option then. I know there's a thread on here about guys installing their own chargers underneath the lid. Do some searching and maybe go that route.

 

da90 Enthusiast

da90

Posted
Posted

I installed the gen 2 in my 2017 Suburban and it only works when it wants to. I cut up my 2014 Sierra console lid and installed my own and it still works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My original Gen1 charger had quit working, so I put in the Gen2 hoping it would resolve the issue.  Must be something else at play.

AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted
On 8/11/2020 at 2:55 PM, Bob2C said:

Well. I installed the updated wireless charger and my iPhone 11 Pro was charging until a few months ago. It’s hit or miss if it wants to charge. It recognizes that there is a charger there but won’t charge. I’d say it works about 10% of the time. My wife’s new iPhone pro does the same thing. The funny thing my sons IPhone XS charges just fine every time. I’m wondering if it’s something with a software update and the pros hardware. As for iPhones this has been discussed on previous threads. No solid conclusion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wire that feeds the wireless charger is in a bad spot, runs next to the lid hinge.  My hinge chewed through it.  Also, the newer phones are incompatible with that old wireless charger, there is a guy that sells the newer units and adapter since the power connector is bad.  My opinion, dont screw with it, use the cord to charge.  I did the upgrade and the charging is VERY slow..  Not worth it.

  • Like 1
Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted
The wire that feeds the wireless charger is in a bad spot, runs next to the lid hinge.  My hinge chewed through it.  Also, the newer phones are incompatible with that old wireless charger, there is a guy that sells the newer units and adapter since the power connector is bad.  My opinion, dont screw with it, use the cord to charge.  I did the upgrade and the charging is VERY slow..  Not worth it.

If I leave my phone on there for more than 5 min it starts charging. I mostly use the cable because I use waze when I travel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 4 weeks later...
Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted

So I updated to IOS 14 and have no problems wirelessly charging. Every time I drop it on the mat it charges.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted
On 8/18/2020 at 2:43 PM, bkesting said:

My original Gen1 charger had quit working, so I put in the Gen2 hoping it would resolve the issue.  Must be something else at play.

Not sure if you solved this, but I did a mod and added an aftermarket charger. Here's my thread on how to do it, with pics:

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,395 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • parthery
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By parthery · Posted

      Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • richard wysong
      Needing this part.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...