Jump to content

rear end axle swap

griepp06
 Share

Recommended Posts

griepp06 Enthusiast

griepp06

Posted
Posted

i have a 1996 chevy C1500 and i started hearing a grinding from the rear a few weeks ago and just thought it was the driveshaft carier bearing. was so much worse as the mechanic says the pinion seal went out which dried the system causing damage to the bing, ring and pinion with a $1400 rebuild bill. i got a used 10 bolt rear end from a lower milage junkyard truck of the same gear ratio and need a step by step of what i should remember when dropping the old one and putting the new one in for those who have taken on this project.

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

There should be a rubber brake line that goes down to the rear end, you will want to pinch that with a vise grips or something. Put some hose or cardboard around the jaws so it can cut into the hose.

 

Disconnect the brake line from the rear axle . Remove the two lower shock bolts to let the shocks just hang there. Put a jack under the rear axle pumpkin and unbolt the u-bolts holding the axle to the leaf springs. Once they are off you should be able to slowly lower the axle down to the ground and wheel it out. It helps to have two people when doing it on the garage floor.

 

It's the reverse to install. Once the new axle is in place you need to crack the bleeders open at each drum to let the brake fluid flow to them. Keep the master cylinder full of fluid and see if you can let it gravity bleed for a while. Close them up and do the normal bleed procedure, pump them up, hold them down and crack the bleeder open to get all the air out.

 

It's pretty straight forward once you get into it.

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is the axle from the same generation truck, as different generations can have different widths and mounts, while keeping the same carrier...

Edited by davester
griepp06 Enthusiast

griepp06

Posted
  • Author
Posted

CamGTP thanks for the tip I was able to get the old axle out but I broke the parking brake cable when I was doing so. It never worked anyway so I’m just going to ignore that for now but will fix it in the near future. The U-bolts had to be cut as they were not coming off with all the rust. The replacement axle will go in tomorrow once I pick up the new bolts up at the parts store. One of the brake cables broke while removing it from the junkyard truck. If I have to custom bend the brake lines is it flared or double Flared and at what angle?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,242 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      seat base height *lowering* (base 40/20/40 seat, 2026 1500 WT std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • bwiese
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • sFrank
      2026 Silverado Range AFM DFM ECU loaction

      By sFrank · Posted

      So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • No F-bdy Bs
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...