Jump to content

Remote start

L REY

By L REY
in Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

L REY New Member

L REY

Posted
Posted

My radio does not come on when using remote start  use the remote start.. has anybody else had this problem?

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted

^^^^As per above?  When using remote start nothing comes on except A/C /heat until you push the start button.

  • Like 1
L REY New Member

L REY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, even if I get in push the brake and turn on the vehicle it is blank.


right and even after I push the start button it still doesn’t come on, I have to turn it off the truck and turn it back on for it to work

Vigilante375 Enthusiast

Vigilante375

Posted
Posted

The infotainment screen is supposed to come on after you press the break and start button. Mine works everytime. 

 

Maybe there is a setting that is causing this? Have you pressed the power button for the infotainment screen after it doesn't turn on? 

eha133 Enthusiast

eha133

Posted
Posted

I have a 2020 Crew Cab LT Trailboss, everyday driven in normal road conditions. I've had this same problem on separate occasions due to a "bad battery." After remote starting the vehicle, I get in the truck (push brake and ignition button) to turn it "fully on. Engine continues running and all electronics turn on EXCEPT for the infotainment system, which remains a black screen. I have to fully restart the truck to get it to come on.

 

 I brought my truck back to the dealership  a month after buying it , they fixed this issue by replacing the malfunctioning battery (battery #2).... 6 months later,  it started happening again and the dealership, again, fixed it by replacing the bad battery (battery #3).

 

Clearly a fresh, fully charged battery fixes the remote start infotainment issue, however, the underlying issue is still present- why am I on my 3rd brand new AGM battery in a 9 month old vehicle? I have not messed with anything on this truck, no aftermarket crap lights or extra electronics anywhere, so what is draining the battery? Do I have a bad alternator?

 

Any help would be appreciated!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

 

7 hours ago, eha133 said:

I have a 2020 Crew Cab LT Trailboss, everyday driven in normal road conditions. I've had this same problem on separate occasions due to a "bad battery." After remote starting the vehicle, I get in the truck (push brake and ignition button) to turn it "fully on. Engine continues running and all electronics turn on EXCEPT for the infotainment system, which remains a black screen. I have to fully restart the truck to get it to come on.

 

 I brought my truck back to the dealership  a month after buying it , they fixed this issue by replacing the malfunctioning battery (battery #2).... 6 months later,  it started happening again and the dealership, again, fixed it by replacing the bad battery (battery #3).

 

Clearly a fresh, fully charged battery fixes the remote start infotainment issue, however, the underlying issue is still present- why am I on my 3rd brand new AGM battery in a 9 month old vehicle? I have not messed with anything on this truck, no aftermarket crap lights or extra electronics anywhere, so what is draining the battery? Do I have a bad alternator?

 

Any help would be appreciated!

This happen in cold weather?

 

There is a tech article about parasitic battery draw in temps below 40F -- including diagnostic  test to confirm if that was the source of the issue.  

Seems that some have an issue with one of the Seat Memory Control Modules (SMCM) waking up the low speed gm LAN Bus

 

May or may not be related to the batteries needing replacement.   

 

 

Intermittent Parasitic Battery Draw Below 40° F/4° C

June 16, 2020

Several intermittent conditions related to a low battery state of charge may be found on some 2018-2019 ATS, CTS, XTS, Corvette; 2018-2020 Envision, LaCrosse, CT6, Escalade, XT5, Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Camaro, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Traverse, Acadia, Sierra, Terrain, Yukon; 2019-2020 XT4, Blazer; and 2020 XT6 models.

The following low battery charge conditions may be present when the ambient air temperature is below 40° F/4° C for an extended period of time:

  • Dead battery/required jump start
  • Slow crank
  • Battery low state of charge and, if equipped, Auto Stop/Start inoperative
  • Instrument cluster backlighting turning on intermittently while the vehicle should be asleep
  • Keyless or passive entry/start inoperative

These conditions are not easily duplicated in the service bay or in temperatures above 40° F/4° C.

These conditions may be due to a low battery state of charge that is being caused by one or more modules waking up the Low Speed GM LAN Bus. When the ambient air temperature is below 40° F/4° C, the Seat Memory Control Module (SMCM) could inadvertently wake up the Low Speed GM LAN Bus. All SMCM’s on a vehicle, including the Driver K40 (Fig. 9), Passenger K40P, Left Rear K40LR and/or Right Rear K40RR module, may apply.

F09-smcm-1.png

Fig. 9

Begin diagnosis by asking the customer or inspecting the vehicle for any aftermarket equipment. If no aftermarket equipment is installed, try to duplicate the conditions by leaving the vehicle outside overnight in temperatures below 40 F/4 C.

Follow the Battery Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test procedure in the appropriate Service Information. If an excessive battery draw is duplicated, as part of the Circuit/System Testing procedure, remove the fuse(s) that powers the SMCM. The SMCM may be powered by more than one fuse. Wait several minutes to see if the vehicle will return to an acceptable battery draw level. If so, replace the appropriate SMCM.

If the battery draw does not return to an acceptable level with the SMCM fuse(s) removed, then continue with the diagnostic procedures in the Service Information.

eha133 Enthusiast

eha133

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, redwngr said:

 

This happen in cold weather?

 

There is a tech article about parasitic battery draw in temps below 40F -- including diagnostic  test to confirm if that was the source of the issue.  

Seems that some have an issue with one of the Seat Memory Control Modules (SMCM) waking up the low speed gm LAN Bus

 

May or may not be related to the batteries needing replacement.   

 

 

Intermittent Parasitic Battery Draw Below 40° F/4° C

June 16, 2020

Several intermittent conditions related to a low battery state of charge may be found on some 2018-2019 ATS, CTS, XTS, Corvette; 2018-2020 Envision, LaCrosse, CT6, Escalade, XT5, Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Camaro, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Traverse, Acadia, Sierra, Terrain, Yukon; 2019-2020 XT4, Blazer; and 2020 XT6 models.

The following low battery charge conditions may be present when the ambient air temperature is below 40° F/4° C for an extended period of time:

  • Dead battery/required jump start
  • Slow crank
  • Battery low state of charge and, if equipped, Auto Stop/Start inoperative
  • Instrument cluster backlighting turning on intermittently while the vehicle should be asleep
  • Keyless or passive entry/start inoperative

These conditions are not easily duplicated in the service bay or in temperatures above 40° F/4° C.

These conditions may be due to a low battery state of charge that is being caused by one or more modules waking up the Low Speed GM LAN Bus. When the ambient air temperature is below 40° F/4° C, the Seat Memory Control Module (SMCM) could inadvertently wake up the Low Speed GM LAN Bus. All SMCM’s on a vehicle, including the Driver K40 (Fig. 9), Passenger K40P, Left Rear K40LR and/or Right Rear K40RR module, may apply.

F09-smcm-1.png

Fig. 9

Begin diagnosis by asking the customer or inspecting the vehicle for any aftermarket equipment. If no aftermarket equipment is installed, try to duplicate the conditions by leaving the vehicle outside overnight in temperatures below 40 F/4 C.

Follow the Battery Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test procedure in the appropriate Service Information. If an excessive battery draw is duplicated, as part of the Circuit/System Testing procedure, remove the fuse(s) that powers the SMCM. The SMCM may be powered by more than one fuse. Wait several minutes to see if the vehicle will return to an acceptable battery draw level. If so, replace the appropriate SMCM.

If the battery draw does not return to an acceptable level with the SMCM fuse(s) removed, then continue with the diagnostic procedures in the Service Information.

 

 

Thanks for posting this, the last battery replacement just happened last week, first week of September. I'm in DC and the temperature has not fallen below 60 degrees since May. It can't be this if it only happens when the temperatures are below 40. I wonder if it can also happen at warm temperatures?

 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, eha133 said:

 

 

Thanks for posting this, the last battery replacement just happened last week, first week of September. I'm in DC and the temperature has not fallen below 60 degrees since May. It can't be this if it only happens when the temperatures are below 40. I wonder if it can also happen at warm temperatures?

 

Sounds like the techs are going to have to follow the other diagnostic procedures to determine cause of the abnormally standby draw. 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
T.han90 Enthusiast

T.han90

Posted
Posted
On 9/12/2020 at 10:49 PM, L REY said:

Yes, even if I get in push the brake and turn on the vehicle it is blank.


right and even after I push the start button it still doesn’t come on, I have to turn it off the truck and turn it back on for it to work

This just started for me yesterday only time it comes on is if I get in and start without remote. Also is your on star button red when you remote start? Have you had a solution to it yet? I have an app on Saturday for mine let’s see what they say 

L REY New Member

L REY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hello, 

       I’m still having the same issue exactly how you explained it is what is still going on for me.. Good luck with your appointment I’m anxious to hear what the diagnostics was.


 

T.han90 Enthusiast

T.han90

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, L REY said:

Hello, 

       I’m still having the same issue exactly how you explained it is what is still going on for me.. Good luck with your appointment I’m anxious to hear what the diagnostics was.


 

Another post said it was a battery going bad so guessing that will be it 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 494 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...