Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

1100 miles on my 2020 Silverado RST 5.3L. 
Got blinking check engine light continuously for about 3-5 minutes while driving. It would temporarily extinguish when I pushed the accelerator. No associated messages or error codes. All engine parameters seemed normal. 
It stopped blinking and went away on its own. No idea. A bit disconcerting on a brand new truck though. 

Posted

There will be a history code stored, you'd have to scan it with a OBD2 code reader to see what it says.

Posted (edited)

Right on. Thanks for the response. I’m curious to find out. I drove the truck all day today. No blinking light. Keeping my fingers crossed. Still unsettling though. 

Edited by egpilot13
Posted

Take it to autozone or a similar parts store and they will scan it for free for you.  A flashing check engine light is generally a misfire though.  Good luck!

Posted
7 hours ago, Gangly said:

Take it to autozone or a similar parts store and they will scan it for free for you.  A flashing check engine light is generally a misfire though.  Good luck!

Didn’t know they did that. Will definitely stop by. Thanks! I hope you are right about the misfire. 

Posted

Our trucks are famous for the "misfire" code. If I nail it and hold it for a few seconds mine will do it some time.

Posted
1 minute ago, Bobaloo22 said:

Our trucks are famous for the "misfire" code. If I nail it and hold it for a few seconds mine will do it some time.

Interesting...I sure hope that was the case. My first Chevy. Don’t get me wrong. I love the truck. Just don’t want to be part of the horror stories I hear sometimes. 

Posted

The first time mine did it was when my truck was fairly new, it scared the crap out of me so I bought an OBD scanner. I would not worry about it, when it stays on then it can be more serious.

Posted
2 hours ago, egpilot13 said:

I no longer have OnStar subscription. 

You may no longer have safety and security, but vehicle diagnostics is good for 10 years.  How else will they keep pestering you to go to the dealership for service?

Posted (edited)

My CEL light came on for a while the other day (solid, not blinking), went by the dealership and had them read the code.  It was showing it stored codes U0100, P25A2, U0146 .  These had something to do with the brakes (some sending unit or other). 

 

At my service visit yesterday they performed TSB 20NA155, which I understand was a reprogramming of the computer.  They advised that fixed the issue?

 

The Service Advisor told me that if the CEL light was on but not blinking it's ok to continue to drive the vehicle until you can schedule maintenance.  However if it is blinking then you should get it in right away!

Edited by Spyderwebb
Posted

Get used to it.  If a P0300 code, it is infamous for GM owners since the 1980's as they still haven't figured out how to manufacture a reliable fuel injection system.

 

Might as well purchase an OBD-II scan tool because you're going to be using it frequently owning a GM vehicle.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,737
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Christopher Miller
    Newest Member
    Christopher Miller
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,529 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced   https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3Agm-trucks.com+intermediate+steering+shaft&ia=web
    • Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...