Jump to content

Parts Needed for Center Console Swap??

Imcrazy

By Imcrazy
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tewest86 Enthusiast

Tewest86

Posted
Posted

Just curious.  I found a console in the city I'm in but it's tan and I need black.  How much trouble is it to replace the outside pieces with the correct color parts?  If I can get a great deal on the console then it may be worth it.

flat350 Enthusiast

flat350

Posted
Posted (edited)

Found my console in a yard in Nevada after searching for 4 months for $461 shipped to Chicago,sold the jump seat on Ebay for $800.I found that it was better to call and not email the yard,much better response and the same console can be listed at different yards.

The seats don't have to be removed,loosen the front bolts and remove the rear ones to be able to raise the rear a little to access the bolts

The wiring under the pass. seat of an LT model plugs right into the console.The USB port swap requires you to remove almost everything around and including the infotainment center but its not that difficult.Swap the USB ports and connect the ext. harness to the console under the tray and the new port.

Not accounting for my time it cost me nothing to do the swap

 

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
13529873 USB Port $73.02 1

 

 

84376073      Wire $29.89 1

 

84127263      Lower Panel $19.66 1  

 

 

ImageAndParts-6.pdf ImageAndParts-4 (1).pdf ImageAndParts-3 (1).pdf

Edited by flat350
  • Like 2
Tewest86 Enthusiast

Tewest86

Posted
Posted
On 12/9/2020 at 8:50 AM, flat350 said:

Found my console in a yard in Nevada after searching for 4 months for $461 shipped to Chicago,sold the jump seat on Ebay for $800.I found that it was better to call and not email the yard,much better response and the same console can be listed at different yards.

The seats don't have to be removed,loosen the front bolts and remove the rear ones to be able to raise the rear a little to access the bolts

The wiring under the pass. seat of an LT model plugs right into the console.The USB port swap requires you to remove almost everything around and including the infotainment center but its not that difficult.Swap the USB ports and connect the ext. harness to the console under the tray and the new port.

Not accounting for my time it cost me nothing to do the swap

 

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
13529873 USB Port $73.02 1

 

 

84376073      Wire $29.89 1

 

84127263      Lower Panel $19.66 1  

 

 

ImageAndParts-6.pdf 446.07 kB · 3 downloads ImageAndParts-4 (1).pdf 305.61 kB · 2 downloads ImageAndParts-3 (1).pdf 250 kB · 4 downloads

Did you swap the ports to get it to work?  Also, I found another console with wireless charging, how hard to get the wireless charging hooked up?

flat350 Enthusiast

flat350

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Tewest86 said:

Did you swap the ports to get it to work?  Also, I found another console with wireless charging, how hard to get the wireless charging hooked up?

The harness under the seat works the ports on the back of the console,the ports in the storage area of the console are wired to the dash with the extension harness.The new/replacement USB ports in the dash are different on the back with a provision for the ext. harness to plug in and feed the console,the original doesn't have it.There was another member on here that I talked to on the phone about the swap and he said the wireless charging on his worked mine doesn't have the option so  I don't know.

He's where I got the part number for the replacement USB ports.

Edited by flat350
Tewest86 Enthusiast

Tewest86

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, flat350 said:

The harness under the seat works the ports on the back of the console,the ports in the storage area of the console are wired to the dash with the extension harness.The new/replacement USB ports in the dash are different on the back with a provision for the ext. harness to plug in and feed the console,the original doesn't have it.There was another member on here that I talked to on the phone about the swap and he said the wireless charging on his worked mine doesn't have the option so  I don't know.

He's where I got the part number for the replacement USB ports.

Ok.  Did you install the ext harness?  Is it a pain to change out the USB ports and add the extension harness? 

flat350 Enthusiast

flat350

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not a pain just takes time,I took the infotainment center out to do it,dozen clips on the trim .and a few bolts.The USB ports just snaps in and out with a couple of clips.The extension harness just routes from under the dash at the USB and under the top of the console to the ports on it inside the cover.It might have taken me 2 hours to swap out everything inc. the entire console.

There are videos out there on removing the infotainment center,I think one of them might have been on Autostop's website.

Edited by flat350
  • 1 year later...
Jay21 New Member

Jay21

Posted
Posted

Can anyone share the parts number for the trim piece that goes in between the radi and console I keep trying to find it and the one that showed on on gm page looks like the one my truck already has. But I need the one that has two cuts on the side so the console fits perfectly. Any help thank you guys 

  • 2 weeks later...
ChrisMK Enthusiast

ChrisMK

Posted
Posted

I have the following parts available for sale.  If anyone is interested in them PM me.

 

84505589 - Upper trim panel (black)

84505560 - Mat for panel about

84848130 - Front Floor Console Wiring Harness

  • 2 years later...
Liftedrado2021 New Member

Liftedrado2021

Posted
Posted
On 10/29/2020 at 8:28 AM, Imcrazy said:

 

Good Morning, go to a parts yard/salvage yard.  I just got one from a salvaged GMC Sierra AT4 it is the right color and fit and you can get a harness from GM for the connection 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PBNB
      Wiring Help, Please

      By PBNB · Posted

      Looks like you have it figured out. Did you run a sensor into the rear diff housing?    What sort of diff temp swings would you see towing or not? I have wondered how hot it can get 
    • tjonesdfw
      2021 with Intermittent AC Cooling Issues

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • tjonesdfw
      Shift to Park Message Warranty Claim

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • ENJOYLIFE22
      Adding GM factory trailer brake controller

      By ENJOYLIFE22 · Posted

      did anyone get this figured out?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...