Jump to content

House question


MountaineerTom

Recommended Posts

Posted

What does the term "pre-slab" mean, when talking about a house. A realtor told my wife that a certain house we were interested in was a "pre-slab". :devil: Does it have something to do with the foundation?

Posted

Are you sure it wasn't "pre-fab". Ther is a place back home where they build houses and then move them to the site. bothe iste built and pre fab have their plusses and minuses.

Posted

Not sure, could it have ment a concrete slab, no crawl space, just flat on the ground. My parents house in Florida was built on a concrete slab. Hard to do much else with the water table so high down there.

 

My sister had a choice of slab or crawl space. Believe it or not the crawl space was a good bit more expensive. I miss the days of a basement. Had one back home in Pa. So nice in the hot summer to go down there and cool off.

 

Let us know what you find out. :devil:

Posted

Thanks for the replies. She thought they said pre-slab.

 

What would the disadvantages of pre-fab be? I've heard of those. Are pre-fabs generally as sturdy as an on site build house? I just don't want to get something that the walls feel like a trailer. We're going to try and get an appointment sometime this week to look at it, so I'll know more then. I may post a pic in a little while.

Posted
I never heard the term "pre-slab."  Pre-fab houses have come and gone a number of times since the '60s if not earlier.  Unlike stick-built homes, the stud walls were assembled at a factory and delivered to the work site and hoisted into place with a crane.  However, I've also heard the term pre-fab used when referring to modern manufactured homes.

:devil: Like Greg said, pre-fab homes are built in a factory and brought to the site and assembled. I have also heard them called modular homes.

 

BTW, in case you didn't know, the slab is the concrete on which a house without a basement sits on.

Posted

Here's what we're looking at. I'll find out more info on it when we get our appointment to look at it. My wife did say the realtor said it was built in the early 80's. 3 bedroom, 3 bath, gas log fireplace, 2 car garage, fenced backyard which runs all the way back to those pines, plus the workshop.

 

Gotta like the workshop in back. Already wired for cable and phone. Perfect place to park my trailer, store my ATV's, and store all my tools. :devil:

 

ahouse1.JPG

ahouse2.JPG

Posted

I never heard the term "pre-slab." Pre-fab houses have come and gone a number of times since the '60s if not earlier. Unlike stick-built homes, the stud walls were assembled at a factory and delivered to the work site and hoisted into place with a crane. However, I've also heard the term pre-fab used when referring to modern manufactured homes.

Posted
Looks good, I wish I had the lot space for an additional garage or out building

I agree....Looks great!

 

I have the lot space, just not the $$ to build a decent shop...I am out of tool space right now. :D Especially when you park the ATV's in the garage....I might have to start parking in the driveway :devil:

 

That is a great looking house man! Good luck! :devil:

Posted

Pre-fab housing, at least here in the north east is what most people call modular. The advantages are that the home is built in a factory under ideal conditions and delivered to the site. Much more control over materials and workmanship, and the house is "erected" quickly when delivered.

Disadvantages are the trip to the site can be hard on the frame. Also some contractors that set the homes tend to cut corners. Have had several friends buy modular and get burned when the home was set. Have also seen homes tumble off the trailors when being set.

All in all the modulars can be as good as stick built if you deal with a reputable company.

Posted

That house is not a modular by the way it looks...

 

I'd ask the realtor to define what they meant by "pre-slab". I have never heard that term before, but things are different down South!!!

 

BTW that is a great looking house and set-up!!! Good Luck!!!

Posted

Oh to have all that room. It would give me a place for all my "Stuff" As George Carlin puts it. :devil:

 

You never can have to much "Stuff"

 

Looks great!!! :devil:

Posted

I would guess she is referring to the "slab" due to it not having a basement...if thats the case. Most homes down south or near the coast dont have basements, they use a slab. It is also used everywhere else were a basement is not needed...this cuts alot of cost while building.

Posted
I would guess she is referring to the "slab" due to it not having a basement...if thats the case.  Most homes down south or near the coast dont have basements, they use a slab.  It is also used everywhere else were a basement is not needed...this cuts alot of cost while building.

I live in Georgia and alot of homes have basements.

 

BTW, nice house Tom :devil: .

 

Shaners, things aren't different down South, they're different up North :devil: j/k.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 330 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
    • Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...