Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m going to build a rear diff cover guard like the one I made on my ‘08 Silverado. It’s strictly for looks since I don’t plan on actually putting it to the test against any rocks. I traced the cover outline and hole locations while I had the cover off to change the oil. Used some cardboard to make templates for the pieces that I’ll cut from 1/4” steel. 

359391FC-843F-45F4-9079-B8B6A0087F96.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

This is interesting. I understand why the need to protect the rest diff. But if you have no intent to wheel your rig why make something like this?  

Posted

Well, the other obvious reason would be for appearance.  Lots of people put things on their trucks that aren't needed for the conditions they drive in, leveling kits, wheels, fender flares, diff/transmission covers, rollover bars, grilles, lights, probably lots more bits..

 

That looks professionally made, very nice.

Posted (edited)

As I stated, it’s strictly for looks, not function. Several years ago I made and sold several of them for Colorados/Canyons. The one I had on my ‘08 Silverado was actually the one I had on my ‘07 Colorado. The hole pattern was the only difference. This will give me something to work on in the garage this winter. 

5B7A59DF-326B-44B1-98D3-D1D08F957EEA.jpeg

Edited by HoosierZ
  • 5 years later...
Posted

Fast forward almost 6 yrs and I finally started cutting out pieces for this forgotten project. Luckily, I found the cardboard templates. It is going to be made of 3/8” thick steel instead of 1/4”.

Posted

I like it.

 

I wonder though - if you backed into something that would warrant the need for this. Instead of smashing the plain cover and maybe damaging replaceable parts inside the diff if it might blow out some of the mounting holes cast in the main housing requiring an axle housing replacement... 

 

Not a criticism, just thinking out loud. 

 

I saw someone who had a grill guard hit a bollard in a parking lot. Ruined the grill guard and bent up the bumper. If the grill guard wasn't there the damage to the bumper would have been similar and might have also included the grill. Probably ended up costing more to buy the grill guard twice, plus the bumper rather than the bumper once and a new grill. 

Posted

It would take one hell of a hit to damage the housing considering the 3/8” thick steel tying 8 of the bolts together and reinforcing the cover mounting flange. I don’t plan on putting it to the test. Again, the guard is mainly for looks. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  
    • Just pull the inside door handle.  It has mechanical override to the lock.  
    • Got to have those sliding doors. One of my favorite things about a minivan. The Kia does a good job of making a minivan look like an SUV. I may do a Toyota next. I want the awd option.
    • I took my 24 Sierra Denali 4wd in at 37,000 miles. Had the mileage maintenance checks done, asked them to change out the two limited slip differentials, including the limited slip additive, and change out the transfer case fluid. They rotated my tires, verified my shocks weren’t leaking, and whatever minor checkouts that were on the list for 37,000 miles. About three hours later, they charged me $600 and sent me off. I was considering having the 10-speed transmission serviced, but between the posts on this forum and previous experiences with transmission failures after a fluid and filter change, I decided against the tranny fluid changeout when the service advisor told me it would take about 3 hours and cost about $500. After growing up working in three different full-service gas stations, I know to stay far away from flushing machines connected to any automatic transmission. I don’t meet the severe duty schedule, but I may follow the 45,000 mile tranny service, unless  i see more problems from doing so on the forums. I expect I will want to watch the entire procedure. The various utube videos do a decent job of showing how much time and attention should be taken for a correct fluid &filter replacement, so witnessing the procedure seems something I should do. Trust but Verify🥳 Otherwise, I’ll follow the owner’s manual recommendations, whatever they are.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...