Jump to content

Single Solo-baric Sub With Bose System 2020 Denali Is Perfect

Rook126

By Rook126
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

204Denali Enthusiast

204Denali

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Rook126 said:

Thanks for the compliments.

 
I’m working on dying the carpeting to a darker shade of brown to get a better match to to brown interior color.  Picked up some black dye to blend with the chocolate brown dye. Will see how it comes out.
 
This sealed setup is still sounding sweet with music from all genres. You’ve got rock, pop, bass/electronic, country, R&B, and then there is RUSH.  I listen to it all.  A kick drum sounds and feels like a live kick drum. You feel it in your chest and it is clean without that inaccurate boominess. 

After some testing and tweaking, I now keep the bass tone level on the radio set to -12 which is as low as it goes. Amp gain setting is at about 40% on the dial and I have a Kicker volume knob on the dash that stays at 50%.  My mid and treble tones on the radio are both set at zero (no increase or decrease). When I turn the main volume to about 70-80% which is loud, there is no distortion or shrilly sounds from the mids or highs. This single 10” sub has more than enough bass for me with the Bose system. I’m more interested in an amazing sounding system on the inside of the truck rather than advertising my sound system to the outside world. Priorities change as you grow older. 
 

If anyone else decides to build a compact sub system like this, I would definitely recommend using a subwoofer like a Solo-baric that is specifically designed to work in very small enclosures. Save some space for storage. 

If I had to critique you that would have been it, the dye did not match, but the box was so well done I did not want to say anything since its minor, but now that you stated your going to fix that then its perfect.

 

Had solos when they first came out years ago, me and my brother, they pack a great punch and like you said require very little room.  Then I    upgraded to 4 12's and 2 10's, and well you could hear me from a distance coming lol but that was back when I was a teenager.

 

Enjoy the setup, looks great.  You could probably sell those boxes! 

Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm critical of my work too and couldn't settle with the original shades of brown so I hit it with some dye of my own blend of black and brown. The color tone is much better compared to the previous colors. Check out how light the original carpeting was in this pic compared to how it is now. Need to shave down some of the matted carpeting now to smooth it out again.

 

IMG_0489.jpg.08f5c26f8e57d144da87fe3f90a35eed.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just received these JL speakers per the recommendation in another thread. I got them from Crutchfield who included all of the mounting bracket adapters and door speaker wire adapters at no cost. These will be replacing the stock Bose speakers in my 2020 Sierra and they will be running off of the stock Bose amp. Will let you know what I find and my thoughts on the improvement or not. Has anyone else competed a similar install and running them with the stock Bose amp?

IMG_0567.jpg

bluemonstercali Enthusiast

bluemonstercali

Posted
Posted

I just returned the 690. I installed the 650 and they where definitely clearer. But I also added 2.5 audio frog in the dash. I was so impressed with the audio frogs that after I deaden the front doors if they still need a swap out I am gonna go with audio frog 6x9

Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
  • Author
Posted
22 hours ago, bluemonstercali said:

I just returned the 690. I installed the 650 and they where definitely clearer. But I also added 2.5 audio frog in the dash. I was so impressed with the audio frogs that after I deaden the front doors if they still need a swap out I am gonna go with audio frog 6x9

Thanks bluemonstercali, you made a wise choice in returning the 690s.

 

I installed all of the speakers which are running off of the stock Bose amp.  It appears that the audio signal to each channel from the Bose amp has set frequency cutoffs. The factory 2.5" Bose dash speakers do not have any crossover capacitors that I could see so my guess is that the amp is only sending them high frequencies. 

 

I replaced the 2.5" dash speakers with the 1" JL tweeters. These dash speakers provide most of the mids and highs for the soundstage, including vocals in music. I want the voice to sound like an actual person in front of you. I first tried the JL tweeters with the included inline crossover. I did not like the sound with the JL crossovers. They cut out too much of the upper mid frequencies and cut the output volume in about half. Vocals did not sound natural because the tweeters were only producing very high frequencies and voices sounded tinny. I ended up removing the crossovers and relying on the cutoff set by the Bose amp. If anything, the mids and highs can be a little too harsh at high volume for my taste. I keep the tone setting on the radio at zero for the mid and the high. 

 

In installed coaxial 6X9s with tweeters in the front doors. There is zero high frequencies coming out of these. They sound about the same as the Bose speakers from the factory and may even be lower in volume due to a difference in Ohms from the Bose. These JL 6X9s produced a muddied mid-range with a little bass. (No treble). For anyone planning on replacing the front door speakers, I recommend not spending much on a high end speaker if you are going to use the Bose amp. Buy a component 6X9 set and put the tweeters in the dash.

 

I believe the Bose amp is blocking all low frequencies to the rear door speakers. You can maximize the bass setting on the radio and the rear doors still only put out mids and high frequencies. I installed the 6.5" coaxial speakers in the rear doors and it seemed to make the most noticeable improvement with crispier highs. As I mentioned earlier, you can't get any bass out of these no matter what bass setting you set on the radio. These speakers will mostly benefit the rear passengers since high frequencies are directional as they are pointing at their ankles. I recommend getting coaxial speakers for the rear doors.

 

Overall I am happy with the upgrades but the only thing I would do differently is not spend the extra cash for 6X9 speakers with tweeters for the front doors. The most noticeable improvement is the clarity and volume of the mids and highs. I'm not into it but the JL tweeters advertise a little more than the Bose tweeters letting folks know you have something aftermarket in there. 

 

One last thing, I do recommend you buy those protecting speaker baffles for the doors. The factory door speaker brackets had a "roof" overhang to protect the speaker and wiring connector. I observed water spots on the roof which either came from rain or washing the car. The baffles are foam and totally enclose the rear of the speakers to protect them from the elements.  They also form a seal between the plastic speaker bracket and the metal door panel.

 

 

IMG_0536.jpg

IMG_0528.jpg

IMG_0535.jpg

bluemonstercali Enthusiast

bluemonstercali

Posted
Posted

I think you explained it well. If your gonna keep the bose amp then replacing the 2.5 dash speakers seem to be the best route. Either with a 2.5 replacement or a 1" tweeter. I am excited to see if really sound deadening the door helps the stock 6x9. And not just dynamat type stuff but with closed cell foam as well. Thats why I want to give soundskin a shot. Spending about 100 on sound deadening vs 300 on a set of speakers. We will see

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Post Pics of your "Other" Rides

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...