Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, todd308 said:

Just as an update, my conclusion basically is that of various wipers I've tried Bosh/Michelin/OEM the OEM ones seem to be the best over time.  Not sure what the difference is but non-OEM ones quickly do the same thing I noticed in my OEM ones after about a year, they streak on the drivers side under where the arm attaches.   If I replace with OEM they seem to be fine.    Which is funny because in 35+ years of owning vehicles I've never had one where the OEM wipers were the best option.  

 

I almost wonder if there's too much pressure on the wiper at the arm and it's wearing out/fatiguing the wiping edge there faster.  Either way seems like it's not a bad idea to have a spare set of OEM wipers and an arm on hand. 

Your 100% correct, I have been through the wiper blade replacement detail with just about all brands out there and the OEM was the best replacement and about the same price maybe a few dollars more as the others but OEM blades are cheaper in the long run. I can get about 1.5 to 2 years out of OEM blades where the others ill get about 6-8 months out of the aftermarket blades no matter what brand. Also the aftermarket blades you will get that flip flop sound when the wipers change direction, OEM you cant hear them.

Edited by Silverado4x4
  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, Silverado4x4 said:

Your 100% correct, I have been through the wiper blade replacement detail with just about all brands out there and the OEM was the best replacement and about the same price maybe a few dollars more as the others but OEM blades are cheaper in the long run. I can get about 1.5 to 2 years out of OEM blades where the others ill get about 6-8 months out of the aftermarket blades no matter what brand. Also the aftermarket blades you will get that flip flop sound when the wipers change direction, OEM you cant hear them.

 

I've gotten 75K/3.25 years from each set of OEM Direct Fit OEM blades. What is not to love about that? 

Posted
On 4/24/2021 at 5:22 PM, GN2018 said:

When I had my ‘18 Silverado, I bought some Direct Fit blades from NAPA.  They were crap.  I returned them.  Someone recommended the Trico wipers at NAPA so I tried those and was very happy with them.  I think the OEM blades are probably best, but I haven’t found them for a discounted price yet.  Now that I have my ‘21, I’ll try looking again.  I like to have some on hand.

 

You can always get GM OE blades from Rock Auto:
image.thumb.png.30df2ab2a7b4fff533cfac0041af1dd0.png

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12532309&cc=3446624&pt=8852&jsn=812&jsn=812

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Bit of a necrothead but an update.  My 21' also started streaking under the attachment point as we come out of winter, not quite as bad but significant.  I don't think snow bent the arm because we had almost none this year, my truck is usually in the garage.  Trying new OEM wiper blade to see if that fixes it, as a precaution since it was like $20 and it has helped others I also ordered a new wiper arm. 

 

I haven't installed it yet, but the spring attachment looks interesting to me, it appears they just use a "C" style hook to connect the spring to the arm near the vehicle attachment.  The spring seems super tight but not very stretched at rest.   I wonder if what is happening is over time that "C" attachment is bending/lengthening a bit and weakening the effective spring tension.  I don't think it would take much to change the wiper pressure significantly.  If the new wiper blade alone doesn't fix the issue, it will be interesting to compare this new arm to the original to see if it's obviously stretched out.  That or to play with the old "C" and add some tension back in and see if it fixes the issue. 

 

Picture of the attachment and bent "C" 

 

 

 

 

IMG_3103.jpeg

  • 5 months later...
Posted

As a further update it does appear to be due to the wiper arm itself, not the wiper blade.   So when I replaced the wiper blade in spring it worked a bit better but not for long.   Recently I replaced the wiper blade again (all wiper blades were the GM OEM version), it did not help, however when I replaced the wiper arm itself the issue is gone......for now.

 

I can only conclude that somehow the wiper arm is losing spring, or getting bent during use etc.    One other thing I did is you can "clock" the wiper arm a bit if you want to make it not sweep quite as far out (less windshield curve) so I adjusted it so it stops about 1/2" sooner, however even when clocked at the same position as the original arm it cured the streaking issue. 

 

Seems like the only answer is every spring to buy new OEM wipers, and a drivers replacement wiper arm for $15. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 years later...
Posted

Honestly, I've been buying stuff at Wally or even Costco. They've lasted  plenty long. I get over a year. Out in elements 24/7. The beam type I've used or seen are designed to be pressed against the glass at speed. I do clean my glass with a clay bar occasionally and use RainX or equivalent on glass

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,943
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Dom Colussi
    Newest Member
    Dom Colussi
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 665 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...