Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got a 2017 GMC Sierra 6.2 with a whipple 2.9L. I want to do E85. I installed the sensor in the fuel line. Do I need to do any other fuel upgrades or does it only need the sensor? I know on the 5.3 it requires upgrades, Im not sure if the 6.2 has a better fuel system than 5.3 or is the same.

Posted

Some 5.3's come with the sensor already installed 6.2 do not.  I have the sensor install on my 6.2  There is a good thread on here about how to install it by using an exsisting fuel line and heating it up and bending it.  Then buying a sensor and just extending the harness.  That's what I did.

 

But I say all that to say your probable maxed out on the stock system with just 93.  you'll need and cam with a 32% over fuel lobe, LT4 injectors and some low side support.

Posted
On 3/12/2021 at 6:08 PM, DenaliX14 said:

Armageddon fuel pump. It does the trick 😉 

Is that an auxiliary pump?

Posted
17 minutes ago, Tanner Smith said:

Is that an auxiliary pump?

It replaces your intake pump (low side). If you want even more flow you can replace your high side pump to a high flow one.


You can get these from GM parts direct or any equivalent site. Search a 2018 Corvette fuel pump. Select any trim that has a supercharger. 
 

a company called wildhammer.com sells a kit for injectors, pump and fuel line. 


goturbo.net has the fuel pump for your tank

Posted
7 minutes ago, DenaliX14 said:

It replaces your intake pump (low side). If you want even more flow you can replace your high side pump to a high flow one.


You can get these from GM parts direct or any equivalent site. Search a 2018 Corvette fuel pump. Select any trim that has a supercharger. 
 

a company called wildhammer.com sells a kit for injectors, pump and fuel line. 


goturbo.net has the fuel pump for your tank

Okay so injectors would definitely need to be replaced too?

Posted
1 hour ago, DenaliX14 said:

You run out of fuel with stock injectors around 550-600 hp without a supplemental fuel source like meth or E85. 

Yeah i have a snows performance meth kit on it. But on the dyno my fuel pressure would drop off at the higher rpms. It helped alot with the AFRs though. They were high like 14 and the meth dropped it down to 12.5. But performance wise the meth did not do much unfortunately. 550-600 at crank or rear wheel? I know my fuel system is maxed. Desired fuel pressure was 2500 and it was at 1700 at peak rpm so it drops off. I wonder if i should put a bigger water meth nozzle in? I have a number 4 nozzle in which is 225 ML/Min. I could put a number 6 in it that i have which is 625ML which is quite a jump. So maybe a 5 nozzle at 375ML/Min

Posted
1 hour ago, Tanner Smith said:

Yeah i have a snows performance meth kit on it. But on the dyno my fuel pressure would drop off at the higher rpms. It helped alot with the AFRs though. They were high like 14 and the meth dropped it down to 12.5. But performance wise the meth did not do much unfortunately. 550-600 at crank or rear wheel? I know my fuel system is maxed. Desired fuel pressure was 2500 and it was at 1700 at peak rpm so it drops off. I wonder if i should put a bigger water meth nozzle in? I have a number 4 nozzle in which is 225 ML/Min. I could put a number 6 in it that i have which is 625ML which is quite a jump. So maybe a 5 nozzle at 375ML/Min

Have you done anything to the block? Rods, journals, bearings, or pistons? I wouldn’t be pushing it much past 550 WHP. My first L86 spun 3 rod bearings at the high 500’s. Diamond or Gwatney performance makes a great drop in kit to bulletproof your block to 1000 crank. 
 

that being said, if you want to push the HP you need to upgrade your low, high side pumps, get a 30% fuel lobe camshaft and drop in the LT4 injectors. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, DenaliX14 said:

Have you done anything to the block? Rods, journals, bearings, or pistons? I wouldn’t be pushing it much past 550 WHP. My first L86 spun 3 rod bearings at the high 500’s. Diamond or Gwatney performance makes a great drop in kit to bulletproof your block to 1000 crank. 
 

that being said, if you want to push the HP you need to upgrade your low, high side pumps, get a 30% fuel lobe camshaft and drop in the LT4 injectors. 

No block has been untouched. I am probably pushing it with where I am at now. Good to know. Ill check them out for future when things break haha. I do need to get Transmission tuning on it. Also trying to figure out of I need the mighty mouse mild or wild catch can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was the GM of a Lincoln Mercury dealership back in the 80's. The service lot was always full with "broken" ones. Plenty of transmissions, power windows and a/c repairs. The only one I'd consider owning would be the Marauder at this point and it certainly wouldn't be a daily driver.  My 2025 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate is my "Lincoln Town Car" in my retirement. I want all the "stuff". Big infotainment screens, one touch power windows, Supercruise (I won't buy another vehicle without it), hands free pretty much everything. I'm going to swap my current truck for a 2027 Yukon Denali Ultimate so I can have the air suspension and surround vision recording along with all the other "stuff". 
    • Yep mine is on backorder also.
    • The Denali Ultimate's grille is tinted, but the "regular' Denali has a bright chrome grille like the current models.
    • Because that is IDIOTIC, much like this question. They've already been forced to do it by past administrations - why would you roll that back when it's a GOOD thing?  WHO IS ARGUING FOR LOWER MILEAGE???? 😂  NOBODY IS!!   I'm certainly not! What I want is RELIABLE vehicles again that are worth the price paid!    I don't get your logic here ...   In 2003 I paid $2,200 for our '86 Grand Marquis. It's STILL running and I've never been inside the engine, aside for the timing cover since it was leaking, so I threw a new timing set in since that makes sense. Transmission is ORIGINAL. Electric pump in the gas tank is ORIGINAL. Rear end is ORIGINAL. I'd have to hit my head REAL hard to want to pay $60k or more for a car that still can't come close to the comfort, seating and storage space, or reliability of this one. Nothing is even in the ball park! Hundreds of thousands of brands and models have been built and sent to the crusher while this one keeps on going!   https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   I've got a whole fleet of cars, motorcycles, and a truck close to this age for summer and winter. No one could pay me enough to buy anything built this century. I have zero use for any it.
    • Since I'm the one who has to fix them when they break, I'll take vehicles over 30 years old all day, EVERY day, over ANY modern crap. Have you attempted any repairs on anything built after 2006? It's a friggin nightmare, and gets worse the newer the model year.    If I had the will or desire, I can make any car of any age outside of a Model T (I don't have THAT much will ...) just as powerful, comfortable, and have all the tech the new stuff does, and get pretty close in mileage, too. I prefer SIMPLICITY. The less the vehicle has, the less to fix WHEN it breaks, not IF.   I'm glad you snot-nosed punks don't like them. More for us, plus that keeps the prices from climbing more than they already have.👍
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...