Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

 

I'm a new member and hoping to use all of your vast membership resources to help me out.

 

I bought a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 HD extended cab with the 6 liter a few months ago and am trying to get it ready to pass inspection now that he weather seems to be getting a bit less frigid. It's got 130,000 miles and seems to still run strong.

I had some codes when I got it and traced the cause to the leaking intake manifold gaskets, which I replaced on my own with the steel fel-pro gaskets - no more codes.

 

My current problem is that the intermediate parking brake cable was snapped, so I bought a replacement cable. Was able to take off the old cable and attached it to the front cable, but I don't understand the how it attaches to the rear cables. It looks like there are 2 cables, one going to the rear left, and one going to the rear right parking brakes, but it looks like only one of the cables can attach to the back of the intermediate cable.

The truck has the HVY RPO code (2 inch lift), which I understand (or am completely wrong) does not have an "equalizer."

 

I can't seem to find any diagrams/schematics/pictures of what this connection looks like - could anyone who has a similar truck please take a few  pictures of what that connection looks like and post it here?

 

Thank you for your help.

Posted

These two rear cable join along the DS just behind the door on exterior of the frame. This part, If the rest is hooked up, you do last. To get it hooked, youll need to drag the front cable back ( make sure pedal inside is UP, may have to release and pull up on pedal, or bungie it up ) Pull back on the front cable with vise grips and slide the combined cable holder on to that front cable.

 I have had these E brake set ups and rear bearings, seals, backing plates apart many times.

Posted

Hi Formulabruce,

Thank you for your reply.

I can see what you're describing - the intermediate cable only attaches to a single rear parking brake cable? How does the other parking brake get activated?

 

The picture below is what would make sense to me (I believe this is the equalizer, and not included in the cable I bought because it said this was for trucks without RPO code HVY).

 

If it's just the single connection, then I think I'm good - I then just need to figure out how to get some of the front cable to spool out from the parking brake pedal mechanism...

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

 

original.jpg

Posted

It has that, of sorts, under the Drivers door, on the frame. The main cable has a sort of hood on it with a slice, where the other cable joins it. That "hood" is then pulled by the front cable.  I will post a pic tomorrow

Posted

When I did it on my '04 Sierra 3500, it amounted to "pull hard" on the cable coming from the cab.  I used vise grips around the cable (not clamping it, as I didn't want to damage the coating), to be able to pull, and then a friend could slide the cable from the rear brakes (the single cable) into the clip used to join them.

Posted

Hey guys,

Thank you for all your helpful comments!

 

"The main cable has a sort of hood on it with a slice, where the other cable joins it. That "hood" is then pulled by the front cable.  I will post a pic tomorrow"

Formulabruce - your description sounds just like what I'm seeing - your pic will be very helpful!

 

Thanks again!

Posted (edited)

This is what the equalizer looks like on 2500/3500 from 1999-2007:

 

Parking Brake Cable Equalizer ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15941031 for  sale online | eBay

 

 

The right rear cable goes through the large hole and connects to the intermediate cable.  The left rear cable hooks into the smaller hole with that groove at the bottom of the equalizer.  

 

The cable adjustment is done as part of the pedal assembly and the adjustment of the rear park brake shoes adjusts the rear cable actuation.

 

 
Quote

 

Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Disabling (w/Rear Disc)

Before any components of the parking brake system are serviced, the following procedure must be followed. Two technicians are required to perform this procedure, one inside the vehicle and one outside the vehicle.

  1.  
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. 
  3. Hold the pedal in the FULL upward position.
  4. Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the pedal drum (2) reaches its full reset position.
  5. Insert a scribe or the shaft of a thin screwdriver (1) on an upward angle through the hole in the front of the pedal assembly, past the retracted pedal drum, and into the hole in the back of the pedal assembly (3).
  6. Slowly release the cable.
  7. Remove the component that requires service.
Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Enabling (w/Rear Disc)

If the park brake automatic adjuster has been disabled, the following two person procedure must be performed.

  1. Hold the park brake pedal in the FULL upward position.
  2. Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the tension is released from the scribe or nail (1) installed through the holes in the pedal assembly.
  3. Remove the scribe or screwdriver (1).
  4. Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position.
  5. Release the park brake pedal.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding or sticking.

 

Parking Brake Adjustment (w/Rear Disc)
Park Brake Shoe Adjustment

Tools Required

J 21177-A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge

 

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution.

Important: The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake pedal is adjusted.

 
  1.  
  2. Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.
  3. Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
  4. Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the J 21177-A.
  5. Repeat steps 1–3 for the opposite side.
  6. The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).
Park Brake Pedal Adjustment

Important: Before you adjust the park brake, verify that the park brake shoes are adjusted to provide a clearance of 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

  1. Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has be removed.
  2. Fully apply and release the park brake pedal 3 times, with the rotor in place.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

newdude,

 

Thank you - that's the piece I was talking about that I didn't understand.

And thank you for the procedure!

 

I'm going to tackle it this weekend.

 

Thank you to all of you who replied - this is a great site and I'm glad I joined!

Posted

Hi All,

 

It worked (I think)!

I was able to get the intermediate cable attached to the right rear cable. I just have not been able to get the parking brake pedal to return to the fully up position when releasing it yet. But I still need to check for the parking brake shoe clearance, which should be fun with all the rust... Gotta love upstate NY snow!

 

Thank you again for all who replied to my questions. I hope to return the favor!

Posted

Hi All,

 

It worked (I think)!

I was able to get the intermediate cable attached to the right rear cable. I just have not been able to get the parking brake pedal to return to the fully up position when releasing it yet. But I still need to check for the parking brake shoe clearance, which should be fun with all the rust... Gotta love upstate NY snow!

 

Thank you again for all who replied to my questions. I hope to return the favor!

  • 4 years later...
Posted (edited)

Old thread but still helpful. My issue on my '02 SD is that the 2 cables coming from the rear into the intermediate cable are of different lengths, the top one is almost an inch and half shorter that the lower one. I put a new intermediate cable in, tightened up the nut and stepped on the pedal several times, it's still the same.  What would cause that one cable to be that much shorter or longer? 

Edited by Quadrasteer
add info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 360 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...