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Posted
6 minutes ago, Nicholas Faust-Doty said:

Okay that was my other thought that it was not analog. Thanks for the information. More research will be done on the TI FPD Link III to see if something can be bought to have 2 inputs with 1 output. 

Luckily i have not bought or ran anything yet as i just found this thread. I will make sure to purchase 50ohm RG316 cable with proper ends. At the end of the day, if i cant have to interior it is not the end of the world. I will at least have 1 interior and 1 exterior with this solution. 

 

Thanks for the additional information!

One thing that comes to mind is if you could find a coax or RF switch box. Not sure if it will be rated for FPD III speeds since they can operate up to 3.75Gbps IIRC but keep that maximum bit rate in mind, good luck!

Posted
4 minutes ago, matt99199 said:

One thing that comes to mind is if you could find a coax or RF switch box. Not sure if it will be rated for FPD III speeds since they can operate up to 3.75Gbps IIRC but keep that maximum bit rate in mind, good luck!

Okay yeah I will look into that as well. Do you know if i would have an issue with my exterior camera with a cable length of 50-55 ft? I am wondering if the signal can make it that far? My trailer is a Gooseneck with a total length of 45 ft. I will measure the cable route planned to get an exact length but 50-55ft is my estimate. 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Nicholas Faust-Doty said:

Okay yeah I will look into that as well. Do you know if i would have an issue with my exterior camera with a cable length of 50-55 ft? I am wondering if the signal can make it that far? My trailer is a Gooseneck with a total length of 45 ft. I will measure the cable route planned to get an exact length but 50-55ft is my estimate. 

Typically you want to keep the total length from serializer and deserializer less than 15 meters but I cant say either way if it will still work or not. Testing vs actual use case vary.

The problem is the multiple connectors in the path and cable loss at these high frequencies. Each connector on the path is an impedance discontinuity and loss of signal strength.

The chipsets have some emphasis control and may work at these lengths but TI would have to comment.

I wouldn't try introducing any more loss like a switcher however and keep it to only one continous cable.

The other thing to consider which seems silly in the grand scheme is the DC power supplied over the coax too, cameras dont draw much but also have an operating voltage range and the longer the cable the bigger the voltage drop.

Edited by matt99199
Posted (edited)
On 11/13/2022 at 10:49 PM, matt99199 said:

Typically you want to keep the total length from serializer and deserializer less than 15 meters but I cant say either way if it will still work or not. Testing vs actual use case vary.

The problem is the multiple connectors in the path and cable loss at these high frequencies. Each connector on the path is an impedance discontinuity and loss of signal strength.

The chipsets have some emphasis control and may work at these lengths but TI would have to comment.

I wouldn't try introducing any more loss like a switcher however and keep it to only one continous cable.

The other thing to consider which seems silly in the grand scheme is the DC power supplied over the coax too, cameras dont draw much but also have an operating voltage range and the longer the cable the bigger the voltage drop.

Yep that all makes sense to me. I will measure it and see where i am at. I did see the 15 meters on the TI specs. That is why i got worried as i assume the deserializer is closer to the front of the truck. I have a long box too which would take away from the 15 meters. The line that would have a switcher would be much shorter. Which from what I am finding won't be possible at a reasonable cost. The longest run cable will be the dedicated Exterior Camera feed. If run into a problem with the length i will look into some kind of inline booster. 

Edited by Nicholas Faust-Doty
Posted (edited)

I got my version of this mod working and indeed you need to crimp the outer ring down more to make a firm connection for the ground. Just take some pliers and gently push two of the four tabs down. Worked even on my 10m cable.

It's probably not "exactly" DVB-T but its close enough to work.

 

I 3D printed some custom connector sheaths to protect the cable and slot into the port (attached). Just filled the ends with some high temp hot glue to make it solid.

 

Will share my camera enclosure 3D model once I make it, trailer is packed away at the in-laws until spring though.

I did this for fun for my boat trailer but might not actually mount it to that seeing that the thing goes under water....TBD, might make it water proof and go for it later.

 

Also I made a fake trailer load to test this out since the truck didn't seem to want to switch to the camera view unless a trailer was connected and since my is put away I just ended up putting 3 75ohm 10W resistors in a 7pin connector breakout and it works. I can share details if anyone is interested or can make them for people and create an eBay link.

This fake trailer load also allows you to see the lanes every time you use your turn signal like if you had the trailer attached; multi-purpose.

IMG_0272.thumb.jpg.6abbc1b9ada2d389b3f120c9380ccf4e.jpg 

Part2.stl Part2.ipt

Edited by matt99199
Posted (edited)
On 11/17/2022 at 7:29 PM, matt99199 said:

I got my version of this mod working and indeed you need to crimp the outer ring down more to make a firm connection for the ground. Just take some pliers and gently push two of the four tabs down. Worked even on my 10m cable.

It's probably not "exactly" DVB-T but its close enough to work.

 

I 3D printed some custom connector sheaths to protect the cable and slot into the port (attached). Just filled the ends with some high temp hot glue to make it solid.

 

Will share my camera enclosure 3D model once I make it, trailer is packed away at the in-laws until spring though.

I did this for fun for my boat trailer but might not actually mount it to that seeing that the thing goes under water....TBD, might make it water proof and go for it later.

 

Also I made a fake trailer load to test this out since the truck didn't seem to want to switch to the camera view unless a trailer was connected and since my is put away I just ended up putting 3 75ohm 10W resistors in a 7pin connector breakout and it works. I can share details if anyone is interested or can make them for people and create an eBay link.

This fake trailer load also allows you to see the lanes every time you use your turn signal like if you had the trailer attached; multi-purpose.

IMG_0272.thumb.jpg.6abbc1b9ada2d389b3f120c9380ccf4e.jpg 

Part2.stl 811.77 kB · 3 downloads Part2.ipt 177.5 kB · 2 downloads

Thanks for the model of the plug. Could you provide the .stp? My F360 instance wont take a .ipt as it is the Personal version of F360. I was able to design a camera housing but nothing for cable yet as i dont have my order in quite yet. Also the attached Camera housing will fit the camera perfect with a well calibrated printer. The only thing not tested is having the cable plugged into the camera and exiting the housing. Feel free to print it up and test if you like. 

 

 

GMC Camera Housing Tilt v11.zip

Edited by Nicholas Faust-Doty
Added IPT, STL, F3D all in one zip
  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/21/2022 at 10:24 AM, Nicholas Faust-Doty said:

Thanks for the model of the plug. Could you provide the .stp? My F360 instance wont take a .ipt as it is the Personal version of F360. I was able to design a camera housing but nothing for cable yet as i dont have my order in quite yet. Also the attached Camera housing will fit the camera perfect with a well calibrated printer. The only thing not tested is having the cable plugged into the camera and exiting the housing. Feel free to print it up and test if you like. 

 

 

GMC Camera Housing Tilt v11.zip 696.42 kB · 0 downloads

 

Part2.stp

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Got mine ready to install this weekend on my Jayco 30ft Fifth Wheel.  The 3d printed parts look great.  I made a 

mod on the swivel mount to recess the 3M mounting tape 1 mm.  I will be relocating my camera connections to inside

of the bed also.  Thanks all who contributed to this build.  Will post pics when I figure out how.

20230217_101424.jpg

20230217_101343.jpg

Edited by RonnyR
  • Like 1
Posted

Do you think a T1/D3 cable would work? We used to use these in telecom. It is a shielded 2 pair cable. 

Posted (edited)

I should have paid closer attention to matt99199's cable ends.  They need to extend like his is shown.  I had to use a heat gun and warm up the PLA plastic sleeve and push the connector past the flush point to get it to make connection.  While it was hot and pliable, I pushed it into the camera port to get a molded and snug fit.  I also modified the swivel mount to recess the 3M tape 1mm to allow a flush mounting (no holes drilled in the camper).  I attached the stl files for the swivel mount and some zip tie mounts if anyone wants them.  They accept the 3M 13mm tape.

4mm_cable_stick_down (1).stl Tilt Mount.stl

Edited by RonnyR
Posted (edited)

I think it is VHB.  it is 13 mm wide.  It holds great.

I also want to mention that I got my camera jacks relocated in the bed of the truck.

Edited by RonnyR
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally got all the parts together and the plastic parts 3D printed and put together.  Works great! Thanks for the article and the 3D files - far better than the almost $700.00 the dealer wanted for the factory setup!

Posted (edited)

Just posting to say thank you to everyone in this thread. Was able to get the parts needed for 1/6th the price of the GM OEM camera package. And thanks for the STL files!

Edited by namtaru
Posted
On 11/17/2022 at 4:29 PM, matt99199 said:

I got my version of this mod working and indeed you need to crimp the outer ring down more to make a firm connection for the ground. Just take some pliers and gently push two of the four tabs down. Worked even on my 10m cable.

It's probably not "exactly" DVB-T but its close enough to work.

 

I 3D printed some custom connector sheaths to protect the cable and slot into the port (attached). Just filled the ends with some high temp hot glue to make it solid.

 

Will share my camera enclosure 3D model once I make it, trailer is packed away at the in-laws until spring though.

I did this for fun for my boat trailer but might not actually mount it to that seeing that the thing goes under water....TBD, might make it water proof and go for it later.

 

Also I made a fake trailer load to test this out since the truck didn't seem to want to switch to the camera view unless a trailer was connected and since my is put away I just ended up putting 3 75ohm 10W resistors in a 7pin connector breakout and it works. I can share details if anyone is interested or can make them for people and create an eBay link.

This fake trailer load also allows you to see the lanes every time you use your turn signal like if you had the trailer attached; multi-purpose.

IMG_0272.thumb.jpg.6abbc1b9ada2d389b3f120c9380ccf4e.jpg 

Part2.stl 811.77 kB · 37 downloads Part2.ipt 177.5 kB · 25 downloads

Hello, I just came across this post and wanted to thank you for the very helpful and innovative ideas you have here. I was hoping you could share with me how to build the connector to trick my truck in to thinking there is a trailer... my boat is at a storage yard and I'm still trying to get my cameras to work that I tried to build from this post last summer. Thanks!

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