Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you with trailer camera ports on your trucks.  Those GM accessory cameras are $400.  Here is how to make poor man's accessory trailer camera.  I made mine for about $130 dollars.  Attached is a pic of my invisible trailer working.  You can customize your length of wire too unlike the gm one.

20210106_150237.thumb.jpg.46575480cafc4a77f8ec499d9e642484.jpg

 

Parts

1. Cable Fakra A 9005 Black Female R/A - DVB-T TV Female Cable Assemblies
Item# FKR-TV-F/S-FAKRA/A-F/RA (search this item number on segemart)
Cable Type: RG316
Length: 50 (you can order what ever length you want I bought 50ft)
.

https://www.segemart.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=FKR-TV-F%2FS-FAKRA%2FA-F%2FRA

2. 360 type Camera- gm part number 23390514

https://www.ebay.com/itm/front-camera-blazer-silverado-sierra-2019-gm-oem-23390514-84179367-360/193620949316

3. Mount- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SZSVT71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4. Casing- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F462RYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5. Adhesive tape and ties- 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YJNVRWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6. 3/4 inch PVC pipe

7. Epoxy Glue

8. Wire conduit

9. Electrical tape

 

Steps 

1.  Drill a hole in the mount bracket so the camera connector port with fit in a way where you can epoxy glue the camera to the mount.

2.  Epoxy glue camera to the mount bracket.

20200719_141341.thumb.jpg.592d71a7cdef03bc53ee51280781ea1a.jpg

3.  Cut casing in half and drill a hole in the thick side for the camera lens to fit in.  Use another half piece as a cover for the back.  You can epoxy glue these onto the mount or use a thin long screw and nut to connect 2 casing shells.

20210309_194343.thumb.jpg.6174a4da69de1e4c94e91fd79c3690c1.jpg

4. Connect camera wire, cover wire with wire conduit and electrical tape and run line using adhesive tape and ties to hold up.

5.  On the truck end of the camera you will can make a plug end over to slide over top the DVB plug end with PVC pipe.  I put the DVB plug inside a PCV pipe and epoxy glued the back side in.  I dremmeled 2 slits in the PVC pipe so connector would fit in port(see pictures)

20200719_141409_2.thumb.jpg.b6dbea59c6d418572072bac847029d83.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 3
Posted

Thank you for this!  Immensely helpful.  Were you able to simply plug the camera in and the trailering app recognized it?

Posted

So you have to have max trailering package right? Like the options for these cameras on your display are already set up? 

Posted
On 3/13/2021 at 10:31 AM, RNAV said:

Thank you for this!  Immensely helpful.  Were you able to simply plug the camera in and the trailering app recognized it?

Yes it recognized immediately for rear trailer viewas shown in picture.  For the invisible trailer you need to drive slow in strait line for about a minute to calibrate camera as you do with $400 camera.  If you take it apart the $400 trailer cam that gm sells inside you will find camera I used.

20200719_120604.jpg

Posted
10 hours ago, Gduck24 said:

So you have to have max trailering package right? Like the options for these cameras on your display are already set up? 

Max trailering package is a different rear gear, heavy springs, a bigger diameter axle nothing with cameras.  I do not have max trailering.  I had the UVI package there is a camera in my high mount brake light for bedview and I had camera ports in my rear bumper.  I had options for hitch view, bed view, inside trailer view, behind trailer view and rear view.  I retrofitted the to UVS package which is  UVI  package plus 360 view and invisible trailer.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Thank you very much for replying to this post . The explanation and pictures are excellent.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Rally6.2RST you seem to have a good electronics knowledge. I just bought a new 2022 GMC 3500 Denali. I already have two cameras on the back of my 5th wheel (one up at roof and one at bumper) that use a BNC cable (male at both ends). I previously had an aftermarket monitor that I hung on my rearview mirror. I know the 5th wheel is not compatible with the invisible trailer which I am fine with, just like having the cameras back there. I would prefer not to run new cables since I had to fish them through my back wall. Do you think it would work if I adapt the GM 23390514 cameras to my existing BNC cable or would there be an issue with the cables? I would need short adapter cables listed below to make it work. 

https://www.segemart.com/fakra-a/1751025116551?filter=882%2C890

https://www.segemart.com/dvb-t-tv/1751025110551?filter=167%2C14%2C170

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello, I just came across your write up. Awesome job, but I'm hoping you can help. I ordered the exact same cable setup (I think) and where the plug attaches to the truck, the inner insert fits perfectly but the outer metal sleeve (with the 4 slits) is larger than the male side of the truck plug. Is yours the same way? Does that need to touch for ground wire or complete the video signal? I plugged it in and hit the inner camera button on the screen and its showing no camera attached. I have a 2020 Silverado with advanced trailering package. So it should just work

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Thanks for this post. Question, I have a 42' 5th wheel and 2023 Silverado 3500 on order. I understand the transparent trailer view won't work, but can you use either the rear camera view or the pic in a pic side view, correct? 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

This is cool!  Does the trailer view stay on while driving to act as a rear view mirror or do you have to select it in 5 second interval?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

This is fantastic! Awesome write up. I will be doing this soon. One thing I would like to try is adding an analog video switcher such as this. The reason is so I could have the exterior rear trailer cam and the 2 interior, cams and switch the source accordingly for the interior cams in the single interior cam port on the bumper. Of course I would need the DVB-TV to RCA for the splitter. One reason I think this might not work is the GM cameras seem to get power and video line all on the single DVB-T to Fakra A cable. If i were to add a splitter inline it may kill the feed entirely as the power might not pass through as expected. None the less, the switcher is cheap enough and so would the adapter cables to test.

 

On another not I plan to design a 3d Printed mount for the cameras. I can provide the .stl files once I figure it all out. 

 

Again thanks for the write up.

Posted
9 hours ago, Nicholas Faust-Doty said:

This is fantastic! Awesome write up. I will be doing this soon. One thing I would like to try is adding an analog video switcher such as this. The reason is so I could have the exterior rear trailer cam and the 2 interior, cams and switch the source accordingly for the interior cams in the single interior cam port on the bumper. Of course I would need the DVB-TV to RCA for the splitter. One reason I think this might not work is the GM cameras seem to get power and video line all on the single DVB-T to Fakra A cable. If i were to add a splitter inline it may kill the feed entirely as the power might not pass through as expected. None the less, the switcher is cheap enough and so would the adapter cables to test.

 

On another not I plan to design a 3d Printed mount for the cameras. I can provide the .stl files once I figure it all out. 

 

Again thanks for the write up.

 

It's not an analog signal any longer, these cameras operate on TI FPD Link III and it's a pretty sensitive protocol. Signal integrity and impedance matching is very important.

Posted
On 6/12/2022 at 7:52 AM, Mike S said:

Rally6.2RST you seem to have a good electronics knowledge. I just bought a new 2022 GMC 3500 Denali. I already have two cameras on the back of my 5th wheel (one up at roof and one at bumper) that use a BNC cable (male at both ends). I previously had an aftermarket monitor that I hung on my rearview mirror. I know the 5th wheel is not compatible with the invisible trailer which I am fine with, just like having the cameras back there. I would prefer not to run new cables since I had to fish them through my back wall. Do you think it would work if I adapt the GM 23390514 cameras to my existing BNC cable or would there be an issue with the cables? I would need short adapter cables listed below to make it work. 

https://www.segemart.com/fakra-a/1751025116551?filter=882%2C890

https://www.segemart.com/dvb-t-tv/1751025110551?filter=167%2C14%2C170

It would work with a BNC cable but as I said in the post above, it's not analog 75ohm style camera system. 

It's a 50ohm impedance system so if your wire was 75ohm it will have to be re-ran.

Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, matt99199 said:

 

It's not an analog signal any longer, these cameras operate on TI FPD Link III and it's a pretty sensitive protocol. Signal integrity and impedance matching is very important.

Okay that was my other thought that it was not analog. Thanks for the information. More research will be done on the TI FPD Link III to see if something can be bought to have 2 inputs with 1 output. 

18 minutes ago, matt99199 said:

It would work with a BNC cable but as I said in the post above, it's not analog 75ohm style camera system. 

It's a 50ohm impedance system so if your wire was 75ohm it will have to be re-ran.

Luckily i have not bought or ran anything yet as i just found this thread. I will make sure to purchase 50ohm RG316 cable with proper ends. At the end of the day, if i cant have two interior cameras it is not the end of the world. I will at least have 1 interior and 1 exterior with this solution. 

 

Thanks for the additional information!

Edited by Nicholas Faust-Doty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...