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I have a 2020 RST with the 3.0 LM2 Duramax with 79k miles… the flywheel failed when I was driving down the highway and left me dead in the water.. I had it towed to the dealership 4 weeks ago and they called today and said the transmission and the engine needs to be replaced. Has anyone experienced this with their trucks? I never towed anything heavy and was religious with service.. luckily all covered under the 100k powertrain warranty…
By AaronandAlicia Dailey
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E
So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.
I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine.
I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing.
I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
1 * PWM Solenoid
1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
All help is appreciated.
thanks in advance,
Were working on getting an 86 k10 back on the road. The trans slips between gears and doesn't have a working OD.
Does this sound like a master rebuild kit fix, or should we be looking for another trans and just swap it in.
I'm sure we could work through rebuilding it, but this would be my first time trying to fix one.
Anyway, just wondering what to expect. Things like, how do you know if the pump is good, torque converter, any hard parts that could be broke that would save me the cost of the rebuild kit in case I just have to replace the trans anyway...etc...
I am currently helping my father with his transmission rebuild for the 4l60e on a 2002 avalanche, he installed a transgo 4l60e sk shift improvement kit along with adding a corvette servo. he installed a cam on the 5.3 and the engine runs flawlessly and for the transmission he added a 3000 stall converter. the transmission will shift into reverse fine and will shift into second with using the manual shift, however the transmission will not shift into drive. the valve body has been checked over and over again and everything seems to be in place. Has anyone else had this issue or know what may cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
By Jacob Szymanski
I noticed my transmission temperature getting quite high when driving on trails or towing through traffic so I decided to add a secondary Derale 13900 transmission cooler in addition to the stock front mounted cooler. My truck is a 2020 Custom TB with the 5.3 and 6 speed 6l80e. This kit came with everything I needed except for a couple fittings, and the fan is wired to an ignition power source so it won't drain the battery. You can see that it is mounted to a winch mount that I had made, but without the winch there that would be a great spot to fit the cooler. Essentially I followed the return cooler line from the transmission forward until the hard lines split off into two rubber lines with the return going to the driver side of the truck. NOTE: The hard lines are 3/8" but the rubber line is 1/2" (learned that the hard way). I first held the cooler in place and measured what angle it needed to sit at and tacked together some mounts, then after a couple of iterations got it to where it fit and the skid plate did not interfere. I then finish welded, drilled, tapped, and painted the mounts. On the cooler itself, I mounted the 180 deg thermostat to the lower connection. With the cooler location determined, I then measured and cut the 3/8" rubber hose in the kit. I then clamped the return rubber line on the truck, cut the rubber hose, and connected the 3/8" cooler hoses to the pre-existing 1/2" hose on the truck. I used one 3/8-1/2 straight barbed connector and one 3/8-1/2 90 deg barbed connector. Some zip ties to tidy up the lines too. Wiring was simple as well, easiest way to get a for sure ignition power source was to get a fuse tap from autozone for a micro2 fuse and then you have a fused ignition source. Ran the power to the thermostat and then positive from motor to the other side of thermostat and the ground to the frame. The hole in the skid plate has an aluminum mesh behind it to keep small rocks out, and it's pretty high up so shouldn't see much abuse. Haven't given it a full test for cooling capability yet but the fan is nice and strong so I have no doubt it'll help. For about $200 total I'd say its a great upgrade for anyone who tows in the city or hits the trails on any steeper terrain.
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