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How's it going , new to forum and hoping someone could shed some light. I have a 2019 silverado custom 5.3 w/ 6 speed trans with about 37k. A month ago the truck threw error p0741, it would Rev high and not want to shift so dealer replaced tcm and new fluid. A few weeks past and code comes back with trans temp running around 215* when it did so dealer replaced torque converter and said it was good to go. I took for a extended drive of so.e city and a Lil hwy for around d 1hr and Temps climbed to 225*. Is 225* high? Doesn't seem normal and dealer is saying they. Ant find anything wrong
Ok so I have a 2015 gmc sierra 1500. after backing up and putting it into drive I get going for about 5 to 10 seconds ill get a jarring lock up for a split second. First time it happened I was going about 40 and I bounced off the steering wheel and left a little skid mark. It sounds like either my transfer case or transmission is locking up but it literally lasts for a split second then goes away. also I've noticed that after shifting from reverse I hear a loud transmission whine before it does it. This has happened at least 30 times for about a year and dealer says they can't recreate it.
It's the 6spd tranny
Also I know all about the normal GMC transmission clunk when shifting I have that too but I've learned to live with it. This is something else entirely. Its dangerous and I can't find anything on any forum mentioning this issue
By DJ Morpheus
Hello all. I own an 18 Silverado 1500 LT , double cab, 6’6” box, 6 spd transmission, I have opted to put 26” status alloy empire wheels with tire size of 305/26/30. Stock transmission gave out. Stock Transmission went out. They said torque converter and pump went out then everything else went with it. Was able to replace the entire unit with a remanufactured from GM. 1 month later, back to the shop (dealer). They covered the repairs because it was under warranty but if it goes out again they won’t because they believe it is the rims causing the trouble. However they will cover if it goes out with stock wheels. Which I will be putting back on. Has anyone else experienced issues with this type of truck and 26” wheels? I did research the “Unsprung weight” makes some sense, however only the transmission gave out, not my drive shaft, drive shaft knuckles, diff, just the goofy transmission which I know the 8 speed has had their share of ongoing things. How is it that a truck that is capable of towing 9k lbs has issues with no load on 26” rims. Pulling a payload in the bed of the truck and pulling a trailer should still have the same effect. If I can’t tow anything with the truck, then what is the point of a truck. I have went back to stock rims to see what would happen. Anyone with info ,thought , something sketched on a cocktail napkin would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you all for your time on this. I have attached the service ticket to this post.
Has anyone ever tried changing the aluminum line to rubber hose crimps for the transmission and oil cooler lines out for AN fittings on and 07-13 Sierra 5.3L? I have a 2013 Sierra and the cold here in Canada isn’t kind to these crimps as I believe the rubber and aluminum have different shrink rates because of difference in material causing them to leak. Replacing them will not solve the problem as the will just do the same thing every year. So what I want to know is if anyone has successfully done this and what fittings did you use?
Just recently bought a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4. I am the third owner. Shortly after buying the truck the transmission grenade’d itself. I’m at 97k miles so still under the 100k mike power train warranty, however I was 21 days outside of the 5 year part of the warranty. I reached out to GM after returning from deployment to try and get some help and hope that they would honor all or maybe partial warranty. Needless to say no help from GM! Shopped around for shops to rebuild and ended just buying a remand one for 2.7k. So here are my questions:
1. Flush the current cooler or buy an upgraded one?
2. If I should buy an upgraded one then how big?
Also should I bypass the current one in the radiator to have a separate cooling system?
3. I’ve heard of people deleting the transmission oil thermometer to achieve a cooler temp. So say do this because heat is the enemy, others say the trans is built to operate at a certain temp.
3.What temperature is the best operating temperature?
4. Should I have the new transmission re flashed or swap the one from my grenade’d one into the remand one?
5. What’s the best way to flush the current cooler if I don’t change it? I’m afraid if I just try to flush it then it won’t get it clean enough and I’ll mess up the new transmission!
That’s all I can think of right now! Thank you in advance for your time and expertise!
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