Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello there! First time poster, after recently purchasing my first GM truck (just got out of a 15 year-long relationship with a Tacoma, followed by a short stint with a commuter car). While I do love my '21 GMC Sierra (1500 5.3L 4WD Crew Cab Elevation), the stereo (8-inch, non-Bose) is atrocious compared to the system I put into the Tacoma.

I've been perusing Crutchfield's website, just to see what is available, and what fits, and it appears that replacing the head unit is not recommended. That is not a big surprise, considering the amount of vehicle settings/computer control that is tied into the stock unit. That is okay, I suppose. I don't mind the look and layout of the stock infotainment system. I am wondering, however:

1. Is there a way to add amps to the stock non-Bose system head unit? I see passing glances referencing aftermarket shops that make a... "device" (I can't remember what it is referred to as) that connects between this stock unit and the harness that allows this, but I haven't seen this "widget" for the non-Bose setup.
2. Looking at Crutchfield's site, it looks like there are subs and full-range speakers that fit into the doors (along with the dash mounted speakers). Are the stock speakers in the doors full-range (and CF is just saying that subs in the doors are an option, fitment-wise) or do some models actually come from the factory with subs in the doors?

I'm just really trying to nail down what my options are, at this point. While the truck's usage was a priority when purchasing (which it has done well to take care of!), the more time I spend in it has made me despise the factory sound.

Thanks in advance for any insight, or push in the right direction. Take care!

Edited by vwgtiturbo
Posted

I finally have all the equipment to start upgrading my non Bose also. Depending on how deep you want to get in to it you can do anything from a basic upgrade to a full system. I am replacing the speakers in the doors as well as the dash adding a DSP, 3 amplifiers and a sub as well as sound deadening. if you look through the Mod section a guy just posted a full build log in there and if you dig deep enough in that section there is a 40+page thread on audio upgrades. 

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, vwgtiturbo said:

Thanks in advance for any insight, or push in the right direction. Take care!

Take a look at the Audio Control LC7i - Its a adapter that goes between the factory headunit and the amplifiers you would add.  Here's a link to their website:

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc7i/

 

 

Edited by bwoodsmn
auto correct headhunt to headunit
Posted
6 hours ago, Greyhound6.2 said:

I finally have all the equipment to start upgrading my non Bose also. Depending on how deep you want to get in to it you can do anything from a basic upgrade to a full system. I am replacing the speakers in the doors as well as the dash adding a DSP, 3 amplifiers and a sub as well as sound deadening. if you look through the Mod section a guy just posted a full build log in there and if you dig deep enough in that section there is a 40+page thread on audio upgrades. 

Awesome, thanks for pointing out that build up! My plan is very similar to yours, with the exception of the sound deadening (I'm hesitant to go through the time/hassle; if my Tacoma didn't need it, the Sierra certainly won't, hahaha).

 

I'm going to go check out that build! Thanks again 🙂

Posted
6 hours ago, bwoodsmn said:

Take a look at the Audio Control LC7i - Its a adapter that goes between the factory headunit and the amplifiers you would add.  Here's a link to their website:

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc7i/

 

 

Nice find, thanks! Looking around a bit, it looks like there are components like this (to facilitate addition of amplifiers) and some others that have built-in EQs (which might be nice, considering how... shallow the factory EQ adjustments are). Time to do more research!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There you go again.  Preaching your politics and worse case scenarios.  And what are you doing to make the world less polarized? 
    • Maybe.   Maybe.   I don't want to be the one that needs help and can't get it when I need it. That is a legitimate complaint, and how they respond to those legitimate complaints is a big red flag to me.   I don't care how good the product is their conduct is subpar. Some people are fine supporting that for the sake of getting the product they want. I'm not.   To be fair, I haven't seen or touched their product in person to determine for myself the quality of it. I'm not offering any opinion on that either.
    • So if you do nothing and they act on their threats like death to America or Israel. And possibly a nuclear war. Whoever survives wonders why didn’t they listen? Or we do something like every President has said they can’t get a nuclear weapon. We’re at the 10 yard line and it happens the time is now or never. I think I’m ok with paying a little more for gas for awhile. It’s a shame that we now live in a world that’s so polarized. 
    • 4-5-6 fails due to design.  Not enough clutches and not enough piston to clutch surface area.  Also the backing plate can bow.     I'd say converter is two part.  The design of converter chosen, and factory tuning of it aka slipping it in D (also L6) for AFM purposes, as well as locking it up in 2nd gear, sometimes 1st, also it will partially lock up at light loads.  All because CAFE/fuel economy requirements.  A billet converter on the stock tune might hold up better, but would still be subject to the stock tuning and how its designed to lock or partially lock.     The most baffling part to me, is the 2007-2013 6L80s didn't have the failure rate the 2014-2018 ones do.  I've been where I work for almost 17 years now, and I recall maybe 3 or 4 of the 07-13 transmissions getting pulled for something.  14-18 on the other hand, it was at a minimum one a month being opened up.    If I had to guess, I'd say the tuning for the gen 5 engines/6L80 setup and its fuel economy goals had a good bit to do with it.  Also, it was bankruptcy time during these years, so I'm thinking some cost cutting was done for the launch of the K2XX trucks.  See also now the 10 speed valve body issues (more cost cutting).  They blow out some mesh screen in the spacer plate, undersized check ball, and the feed limit valve was aluminum and wears out prematurely.         I don't think it was the HP jump from the gen 4 to gen 5?  The 6.2 in the 07-13 trucks was good for 380-400hp during its life/states of tune, and the 5.3 did 310-320hp.   
    • All this might be worth it had we actually recovered enriched uranium, a WMD, or an actual nuclear deal with oversight. This is a flub of epic proportion, and they all know it.   $5.10 at a station reporting $4.99 last week. Here we go....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...