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Posted

So I have been battling my rear brakes on my 2016 2500hd Silverado over the past few days and am at a loss. I have searched high and low on help in regards to why GM, "in their infinite wisdom, " put two return springs on the parking brake shoes, the section that ties into the cable operation part. Then where the adjuster wheel is a much smaller spring. Regardless, I'm trying to replace the hardware on each rear wheel due to frozen caliper slide pins. Oh and finding on of said springs broken in pieces just rattling around inside the inner rotor area. HTF do you get the inside spring out behind the reluctor wheel part of the hub. Mine has the 4 wheel antilock brakes so there is a speed sensor or whatever in there as well. It is so frustrating at this point I might as well just remove the axle a hub assembly. Or is that how it is supposed to be done? Please any insight would be much appreciated. The more detailed the better. Thanks 

 

Mike McClure 

Posted

Thank you mjm-1957 for your reply.

 

Mike

Posted

Your welcome. If you have never done that before I would recommend bringing it somewhere you trust and have them do it. The hub requires a special socket to remove the nut and then a puller to remove the hub from the axle. The inner seal must be replaced whenever the hub is removed and then the bearing preload has to be correctly adjusted when it goes back together. Also replace the axle flange gasket while you have the axle shaft out.

  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 5/13/2021 at 10:07 PM, cutsal86 said:

So I have been battling my rear brakes on my 2016 2500hd Silverado over the past few days and am at a loss. I have searched high and low on help in regards to why GM, "in their infinite wisdom, " put two return springs on the parking brake shoes, the section that ties into the cable operation part. Then where the adjuster wheel is a much smaller spring. Regardless, I'm trying to replace the hardware on each rear wheel due to frozen caliper slide pins....                 

 

And who is the jeeennyis that settled on a guide/slide pin bolt with an internal hex, knowing there's no easy access?  just a touch bit of thinking wouldve begged the question (& offered a solution by default). why not use an external hex on that guide pin/ slide/bolt assy? theres easily room for a 1/2 hex to use a regular 6pt socket on, it shortens the stack height so you can work with the leaf springs that are in the way now, we'd have much more positive engagement, we'd  have 100% success rate at removal & far less broken sockets. AND you wouldnt be in the emergency brake hell that you're in now, (or were then)

 

 

 

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