Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Trying to help out a friend, he has a 2109 Sierra 1500 (old body style) which he has installed a goose neck trailer package in.  He has a 8K trailer that brakes on 4 wheels that he's pulling. The issue is no matter how high he sets the gain the trailer still has a hard time stopping.  No setting will lock up the wheels at all. He loaned the trailer to someone else with a Ford and they had no problem locking the wheels.  Any ideas?

Posted
6 hours ago, SVG said:

Does he have EOH brakes? My 21' wouldn't recognize my trailer brakes until I installed one of these,

 

https://www.hydrastarusa.com/products/accessories/controller-adapter-module/

 

After installing this my trailer brakes (on a brand new trailer) worked like a champ.

I've no affiliation with the manufacturer beyond being a one time customer.

 

I'll have to check with him. Thanks for the suggestion!

Posted

First thing I'd do is make sure the pins on the truck/trailer plugs are clean and that the plug is fully seated.

 

If not used often, crap and corrosion can build up on the connections. 

 

 

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, redwngr said:

First thing I'd do is make sure the pins on the truck/trailer plugs are clean and that the plug is fully seated.

 

If not used often, crap and corrosion can build up on the connections. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yup that as the firs thing he checked. The display also shows the trailer is connected and never looses connection.

Posted (edited)

Did you mean to say he has a 2009 (I don't think the 2109s have been released yet)?  Assuming so since you said old body style.  I don't thing these had built-in brake controllers so what controller is he using?  Perhaps it's not big enough for the trailer.  Or someone didn't wire it properly when they installed it.  

Edited by AirForceAngler
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Circled back to my buddy.  First a bit of clarification, yes its a 2019 not a 2109.. LOL  and yes it does have an integrated controller.  He loaned it to a friend who put a heavier load on it, when it cam back the brakes worked just fine. I'm guessing since it was a new trailer it had something to do with the brakes getting a better ground with use, or the magnets getting worn in.  Thanks for all the suggestions, this place is a wealth of knowledge!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...