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Dash cam install

benelli
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benelli Enthusiast

benelli

Posted
Posted

Installing a dash cam with the parked detection feature. So the drivers fuse panel does anyone know which fuse is constant hot? i know about the large 50 amp fuse for switched power but i also need a constant hot fuse tap for the parking feature. anyone know which fuse is safe for add a fuse to tap into for constant hot.

Ianf Enthusiast

Ianf

Posted
Posted

Go to GMupfitters website and use the SEO location for RAP power locations, there are unused connectors for RAP and constant power in ALL the GM pickups. Just look up your year and then follow their details.

 

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MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, benelli said:

Installing a dash cam with the parked detection feature. So the drivers fuse panel does anyone know which fuse is constant hot? i know about the large 50 amp fuse for switched power but i also need a constant hot fuse tap for the parking feature. anyone know which fuse is safe for add a fuse to tap into for constant hot.

I just have mine powered by the 12 volt (cigarette lighter) port on the lower dash, it's always on.

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)

I added a Rove dash cam to mine a couple months back. The hardwire kit came with a mini tester to probe the different fuses. Using that and the owners manual detailing fuse panel to the left side of dash, I did exactly what you want. The Rove installation kit is pretty slick as it uses piggyback fuse holders to get the power.

 

Screenshot_20211206-103623_Brave.thumb.jpg.7bd41dde7ca7dbc911da2a1213f4cfd5.jpg

 

The cool thing with the install kit is they give you 8 of those piggyback fuse holders, 2 in each of the various fuse sizes (Maxi, standard, mini and micro) so I still have 6 left over that I could always use for other projects. The power runs up the left pillar and tucked underneath the headliner. Kind of surprised how well the installation went. Give me a little time to get out there and I will let you know which ones I used...

Edited by mikeyk101
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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Ok, here is how I did it on my 2016. I used fuse #31 for power when truck is in ACC or On. I used fuse #36 which was a spare that is hot all the time. I also used a bolt to the left of the fuse panel to get "-" ground. So looking at the wires, the yellow wire is connected to fuse #31 and red constant is connected to the spare fuse #36.

 

Screenshot_20211206-100459_Gallery.thumb.jpg.b69be9e486aa111610e4b1ba651748f3.jpg

Screenshot_20211206-100421_Gallery.thumb.jpg.e35b0cc5fc968973c6ac4c4c6777a88f.jpgScreenshot_20211206-100435_Gallery.thumb.jpg.125954a2ee7fb648fad2a2db7939326b.jpg

 

Not sure which dash cam you are installing but if you are adding a Rove that can also connect to your phone via wifi to view live camera or the video files, if you are using a VPN on your phone, you will need to turn it off temporarily or your phone won't connect to the camera. This might also be true for other brands as well. I found this out by accident when trying to link up to the dashcam. 

 

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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

I just have mine powered by the 12 volt (cigarette lighter) port on the lower dash, it's always on.

On mine, I use a Garmin RV890 GPS quite frequently especially when I'm pulling my toyhauler and that is already occupying the power port. And my power port only provides power when in ACC or Run. I never switched the fuse to the always hot as I never needed it to be hot all the time.

 

 

Screenshot_20211206-102250_Gallery.jpg

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benelli Enthusiast

benelli

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 12/6/2021 at 11:16 AM, mikeyk101 said:

Ok, here is how I did it on my 2016. I used fuse #31 for power when truck is in ACC or On. I used fuse #36 which was a spare that is hot all the time. I also used a bolt to the left of the fuse panel to get "-" ground. So looking at the wires, the yellow wire is connected to fuse #31 and red constant is connected to the spare fuse #36.

 

Screenshot_20211206-100459_Gallery.thumb.jpg.b69be9e486aa111610e4b1ba651748f3.jpg

Screenshot_20211206-100421_Gallery.thumb.jpg.e35b0cc5fc968973c6ac4c4c6777a88f.jpgScreenshot_20211206-100435_Gallery.thumb.jpg.125954a2ee7fb648fad2a2db7939326b.jpg

 

Not sure which dash cam you are installing but if you are adding a Rove that can also connect to your phone via wifi to view live camera or the video files, if you are using a VPN on your phone, you will need to turn it off temporarily or your phone won't connect to the camera. This might also be true for other brands as well. I found this out by accident when trying to link up to the dashcam. 

fuse #36 is fine for constant power,but i wouldnt use #31 for switched power. thats for run crank. You can use the large purple 50 amp APO RAP# 10. Thants switched power when key is on

 

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

I will look further into this. So far it has worked just fine for me. Only problem would be tapping into that 50 amp fuse as it wouldn't be easy piggybacking off of it.

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Doing a little searching, it looks like Fuse #30 could be a good option for switched power. It is for Special Equipment Options (Upfitter) for Automatic Leveling Control and is supposed to be switched power. Since I don't have automatic leveling control, it should be an unused circuit. I don't have my multimeter handy right now but will check it. Also Fuse #32 is unused as I don't have the heated steering wheel option but should be switched power as well. However it is only a 7.5 amp circuit and the dashcam instructions recommending using a 10amp circuit. Not quite sure why as this switched power would be running power to a USB power source and those are low draw items...

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Ok, @benelli so your comment about using fuse #31 "Accy/Run Crnk" made me curious. I still don't have access to my multimeter so I did the next best thing, played with the connections. I pulled that yellow wire for the dash cam (Accessory) and left it disconnected and then pulled the red wire (Battery) from fuse slot #36 Spare. I stuck the red wire into #31 and turned the truck on. I had to push power button on dashcam but it came on and worked just fine. When shutting off the truck, then opening the door, the dashcam turned itself off within a couple seconds.

 

So then I put the 10a fuse by itself back into the #31 slot. Next, I pulled the 15a fuse out of #30 and put that into the piggyback fuse holder and then installed the red wire into that slot. I started truck, then again had to push power button on dashcam and it came back on and worked fine. I shut truck off again and opened door. Within a couple seconds, the dashcam turned off like it's supposed to. I skipped the #32 7.5a Htd Whl but I'm assuming it would work just the same as #30 and #31.

 

So just to be safe, I piggybacked  the #30 15a fuse with the yellow dashcam Accy fuse holder and put that in the #30 slot. I then put the #36 fuse into to the piggybacked slot with red wire and put that back in the #36 slot. I turned truck on and this time after a few seconds, dashcam screen automatically turned itself on and began to work. I shut truck off and opened the door and within a few seconds, dashcam screen turned off. It also would do the same using the #31 fuse like I had been using since the start. But I did take your advice and am no longer using the #31 fuse but instead am using the #30 instead as that is essentially a spare anyway...

 

When my dashcam is hooked up with both the yellow (Accessory) and red (Battery) the dashcam also has the parking mode ability. It records normally when truck is on and then automatically switches to parking mode shortly after truck is turned off. But I also now know I can just use the red wire in either #30, #31, and most likely #32 fuse slots and just operate the dashcam manually. They all do provide power when truck is on and then all cut power when truck is shut off. There were a couple other fuses that looked like they would work just as well but since I already had 3 working options, I didn't go any further. 

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dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be ordering a dashcam(s) any day and here's what I want.

Dashcam f/r with suction cup with 4" screen near rearview mirror. 

Remote rear view cam mounted on rear window. Parking monitor.

 

Then I want another cam,  always on, like a backup cam but on the front, mounted in my grille, with another 4" screen mounted somewhere near the lower part of the dashboard for parking.

Is that asking for too much?

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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

I only have a forward facing one, Rove R2-4k. It is advertised as a 2.4" screen but I really don't watch the screen anyway. I can turn on the wifi on the camera and link it to my phone to review the recordings. It will record audio or you can turn the microphone off if you want. It is mounted with a suction cup and I have it tucked behind the rear view mirror. It has a very wide field of view (150⁰) and then has software correction to make the videos appear normal. I use a 512gb micro sd card on it. It is continuous recording while driving in 3 min clips IIRC and overwrites the oldest videos. You can set up the parking mode to offer 1 frame per second or to activate when it experiences the set g force and then will record for a 1 min after that. It offers to lock a video clip instantly if needed to save it and those won't be overwritten. 

 

So far I'm happy with it. I would really like a rear facing but I have a topper on mine and the view to the rear is limited anyway. I would have to run wiring all the way to the rear topper window and really don't feel like doing that. So on that, I can't really comment. I do have a rear facing camera on the back of my toyhauler that I can view when using my Garmin RV890 GPS. I have it wired to the running lights of the toyhauler so I can control turning that on and off. It broadcasts to my GPS via wifi. Not the greatest images but I can see behind me while running down the highway and especially when backing up into my campsite. It is live only and doesn't record.

 

As far as a camera on grill, maybe look for one of those license plate cameras that are usually used on the rear and mount that on front but those usually are live only as well and don't record. Not sure if you were looking for additional recording for that...

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted (edited)

I ordered everything today.

Viofo 129 Pro Duo 4K dash cam with rear camera. 

Comes with hardwire kit.

Read tons of reviews before I pulled the trigger 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Viofo-A129-Pro-DUO-4K-Dual-Channel-Dash-Camera-Hardwire-Kit-CPL-Bundle-/255166711652?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

I also ordered a 256gb card .

Biggest that it would take.

I think that's about 12 hours continous . Not sure though.

Then I got a cheap backup cam that I'm going to make live all the time and mount it on my front license plate. Mount the monitor  next the rearview mirror opposite my dash cam.

That will make parking easier since my hood is almost 6 ft high.

It seems like Im really close to something until i get out and look and im five feet away🙃

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-3-Monitor-Wireless-Car-Night-Vision-Backup-Rear-View-Camera-Parking-System-/384575114949?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 There's going to be a lot going on in my truck now.🙄

Edited by dieselfan1
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