Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey All,

 

I bought a used 2019 High Country back in July. When I bought the vehicle, the odometer had like 31k miles on it, which aligned with what the CarFax report was showing.

 

Fast forward to this week. When I was out running some errands, my check engine light popped on. Conveniently, I was going to be passing by an Auto Zone in a mile or so, so I stopped in and had them read the code. 

 

The employee hooked the reader up and gave me my printout. The issue was a Knock Sensor, but what caught my eye more was the Fix Finder report said my truck has 60k on the odometer, when it only reads 37k.

 

My questions are, are those machines accurate when pulling the mileage?  Should I be going back to the dealer and see what they say?  Has anyone else ever come across this?

 

Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to the feedback. 

Posted
1 hour ago, vancealot29 said:

Hey All,

 

I bought a used 2019 High Country back in July. When I bought the vehicle, the odometer had like 31k miles on it, which aligned with what the CarFax report was showing.

 

Fast forward to this week. When I was out running some errands, my check engine light popped on. Conveniently, I was going to be passing by an Auto Zone in a mile or so, so I stopped in and had them read the code. 

 

The employee hooked the reader up and gave me my printout. The issue was a Knock Sensor, but what caught my eye more was the Fix Finder report said my truck has 60k on the odometer, when it only reads 37k.

 

My questions are, are those machines accurate when pulling the mileage?  Should I be going back to the dealer and see what they say?  Has anyone else ever come across this?

 

Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to the feedback. 

59545.728 would be the reading if the scanner was switched to Kilometers. 

 

Just a guess. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Any chance it's a 'metric' unit truck?

 

(both versions can be operated in 'inch' or 'metric' units, even though there are dic and speedo display differences)

 

With the current exchange rates and market demands, many (most?) used ones from my area are sold into the US. 

 

I have no idea if that makes a difference in the code reader might pull up.

Edited by redwngr
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Any chance it's a 'metric' unit truck?

 

(both versions can be operated in 'inch' or 'metric' units, even though there are dic and speedo display differences)

 

With the current exchange rates and market demands, many (most?) used ones from my area are sold into the US. 

 

I have no idea if that makes a difference in the code reader might pull up.

Just asking, but do they change the cluster for the US market, when it is sold here, or would it still look like this?

 

See the source image

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted (edited)

Aren't the US speedos 140 dials rather than 200? 

 

(so that at 60 mph the US cluster would have the needle at the 12 o'clock position, same as a metric cluster does at 100 kph)

 

Obviously the gauges that are painted cannot change their units, but the speedos can highlight the other (mph / kph) on the dial face and move the needle to the correct location. 

 

I've imported a us vehicle (not a gm pickup) and it had both sets of units painted on the dial -- US version of the vehicle the MPH font as larger, Cdn version of same vehicle the kph units were more prominent. But both would indicate the 

 

Trim level changes cluster too.

Some of them show different numbers on oil pressure and coolant temp gauges, based on selected units.

(Lots of vehicles just use low/high on those gauges anyway...)

Tach, voltmeter and fuel level aren't impacted by units choice.

Edited by redwngr
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the help.  Doubt the truck is a metric truck, as it was originally sold to a dealer in FL, and has stayed in FL based on the CarFax service history.

 

Even though the print out from Auto Zone read in miles, based on how damn close it was (forgot the exact mileage I was on), I will also go with the miles/kilometers conversion.

Posted

I know when programming the BCM, it is all in metric units.  For example, changing the speed limiter to 125 MPH, means I need to set it to 201

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,260 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...