Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 2/21/2022 at 7:07 AM, rlambert said:

2020 GMC 1500 SLT with 27K miles. I can start the truck with the app and/or the key fob remote start. When I get in truck I put my foot on brake and push the button and It won't let me take over.  Engine is running, But I can't shift, I can't do anything other then turn the truck off with the App/ or remote.  I repeat to get the same result.  I try to just start truck from the push button and nothing.   This has happened several times ( 6 times in less than a year).  Sometimes I get learning remote please wait.  but nothing happens.  I have to walk away from the truck and I wait for an hour or so and then truck works normally.  I've had truck to dealer 3 or 4 times now.  They can't duplicate the problem.  We have replace key fob batteries twice now with the same issue. Dealer is at a loss and so am I.  Dealer has checked for software updates and has reprogramed the truck.  Nothing has helped, and there is nothing like wondering of your $60K truck is going to let you go to work.  

    Anyone got any Ideas?   

I am having this same exact problem with my truck. 2019 GMC AT4. It is sitting at the dealer right now and they are trying to tell me for the 3rd time that my remote just wasn't communicating with the truck. Total crap. I could start it with the remote, I could lock and unlock the doors with the remote. It just did nothing when I push the button. So it is obviously NOT the remote. I am getting the same help from the dealer - a shrug of their shoulders and seems to be working and sending me on my way to get stranded again someday. No fix at all. I want a truck that starts with a key!!! I hate this push button technology. It is 0% dependable. I am losing all confidence in GM products.

Posted

Ginger Olson,  Sorry you are having the same issue. and It does sound like the exact same thing my truck does.  Take a video of what its doing and of you putting foot on brake and pushing the Button and send it to your service rep at the dealership.  That's how I finally got them to stop and investigate deeper.  For my truck they replaced the drivers door latch. which did not help. this last time they replaced the drivers window master switch.  I am 3 weeks in with no issues after the window switch replacement. I'm knocking on wood as I'm typing this. LOL   The cooperate technician says everything points to the drivers door.   

     I hope you can get some help.  please keep us posted.  

Posted (edited)
On 4/23/2022 at 6:14 AM, rlambert said:

Doug1234,   

    my truck does give me the "Learning remote please wait" message in the DIC when it acts up.  I've had the remote batteries replace twice now over the last year and had them reprogramed as well.  Did not solve the issue.  Its been a week now since the window switch has been replace and so far no issues. If its going to follow the previous patterns it should act up here soon. 

 

2 hours ago, Ginger Olson said:

I am having this same exact problem with my truck. 2019 GMC AT4. It is sitting at the dealer right now and they are trying to tell me for the 3rd time that my remote just wasn't communicating with the truck. Total crap. I could start it with the remote, I could lock and unlock the doors with the remote. It just did nothing when I push the button. So it is obviously NOT the remote. I am getting the same help from the dealer - a shrug of their shoulders and seems to be working and sending me on my way to get stranded again someday. No fix at all. I want a truck that starts with a key!!! I hate this push button technology. It is 0% dependable. I am losing all confidence in GM products.

 

42 minutes ago, rlambert said:

Ginger Olson,  Sorry you are having the same issue. and It does sound like the exact same thing my truck does.  Take a video of what its doing and of you putting foot on brake and pushing the Button and send it to your service rep at the dealership.  That's how I finally got them to stop and investigate deeper.  For my truck they replaced the drivers door latch. which did not help. this last time they replaced the drivers window master switch.  I am 3 weeks in with no issues after the window switch replacement. I'm knocking on wood as I'm typing this. LOL   The cooperate technician says everything points to the drivers door.   

     I hope you can get some help.  please keep us posted.  

 

 

Driver's master window switch.  We just had a truck in 4 times within 2 weeks.  It was bad to the point that it killed the battery.  The one we had kept putting the truck in to "key learning active" to add a new key to the truck.  Our customer could remote start all day long, but couldn't actually start the truck to drive.  

 

The driver window switch is a communication point on these trucks with LIN BUS.  GM does have a diagnostic PI (this is NOT a TSB, rather a tip to aid in diagnosing the actual part causing the issue) PIT5860 which explains the scenario. 

 

The driver door latch or window switch can be at fault.  What is happening is the door is sending 5 unlock signals in a row from the door latch, which activates key learning.  When this happens, it puts the truck in learn mode and you can't start the truck unless you exit learn mode.  

 

The truck we did started off with two new key fob batteries as those are common.  It came in the next day and got a door latch and the door harness, next visit got a battery, it stayed for further diag and then got the window switch.  The window switch was the fix.   

 

I've put the PI below for everyone to see, just expand open the quote window.  

 

Quote

 

#PIT5860: Diagnostic Tip - No crank / Key Learn Pending or Ready For FOB 3 Message / Unable To Exit RVS When Ignition Mode Button Is Pushed / Symptoms Of A Dead Battery - (Oct 18, 2021)

Involved Region or Country

North America

Additional Options (RPO)

With RPO BTM - Keyless Engine Start

Condition

Some customers may comment on any of the following symptoms:

  • When trying to start the engine using the S38 Ignition Mode Button, nothing happens and it appears as if the battery is dead.
  • DIC message: "Key Learn Pending" or "Ready For FOB 3".
  • During a RVS start when the S38 Ignition Mode Button is pushed to exit RVS the vehicle will not transition to Run mode.

Cause

The cause of these symptoms could be the vehicle falsely entering the Manual Transmitter Programming Mode (without SPS), which can be found on SI Document ID: 3575855.  

Using SI Document ID: 4994319 as an example wiring diagram, circuit 1124 (driver’s door lock cylinder unlock signal) runs between the A23D Drivers Door Latch to the S146 Drivers Power Window Switch. If the S146 receives five consecutive inputs on this circuit, the S146 will send a LIN bus message to the BCM and the BCM then enters Manual Transmitter Programming Mode.

Correction

These concerns may be very intermittent and it can be helpful to question the customer on each of the symptoms to help determine if the vehicle is falsely entering Manual Transmitter Programming Mode or not. If you suspect this is the cause, then the A23D Drivers Door Latch, S146 Drivers Power Window Switch or circuit 1124 could be the fault. If you are able to duplicate the issue, then monitor or remove circuit 1124 either at the A23D or S146 to help isolate the root cause. 

 

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 2
Posted
21 hours ago, rlambert said:

Ginger Olson,  Sorry you are having the same issue. and It does sound like the exact same thing my truck does.  Take a video of what its doing and of you putting foot on brake and pushing the Button and send it to your service rep at the dealership.  That's how I finally got them to stop and investigate deeper.  For my truck they replaced the drivers door latch. which did not help. this last time they replaced the drivers window master switch.  I am 3 weeks in with no issues after the window switch replacement. I'm knocking on wood as I'm typing this. LOL   The cooperate technician says everything points to the drivers door.   

     I hope you can get some help.  please keep us posted.  

So I picked my truck up yesterday. All they did was completely de-program my remote controls and then re-program them and the truck started so... they sent me on my way with that. I have no confidence that is going to fix anything because the remote worked fine, it was the start button that was the failing.  I argued that "fix" was not comforting at all but they were happy with their outcome. I am sure I will be back someday to report the same problem. Hope not!  But we will see. Good luck to all. I will keep checking back here to see if there ever is a discovery on this problem.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I was wondering how everything is going. I had this same problem 4 or 5 months ago. They told me the chip/acc stuff. It wasn't until yesterday that I remote started my truck because of the cold and low and behold, I could not get in and start it with the push button start. I waited several hours and it started right up. Did the window solution fix it? Also, for everyone with this problem: does it happen only when you remote start with the fob or app? Like I said, I have had no problems for months, but I also did not remote start it either. I have a service appointment on Tuesday (5 days) and of course, I'm about 600 miles over warranty (I did buy a new 150000 mile warranty just before my factory warranty ended) but my rep said they would work with GM and was very open to the problem. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.

Posted
3 hours ago, MayorMike said:

I was wondering how everything is going. I had this same problem 4 or 5 months ago. They told me the chip/acc stuff. It wasn't until yesterday that I remote started my truck because of the cold and low and behold, I could not get in and start it with the push button start. I waited several hours and it started right up. Did the window solution fix it? Also, for everyone with this problem: does it happen only when you remote start with the fob or app? Like I said, I have had no problems for months, but I also did not remote start it either. I have a service appointment on Tuesday (5 days) and of course, I'm about 600 miles over warranty (I did buy a new 150000 mile warranty just before my factory warranty ended) but my rep said they would work with GM and was very open to the problem. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.

My truck is still working at the moment since the last "fix" they did, which was de-program and then re-program my remotes. It's what they do every time and it works like a band aide until the next time. I mentioned the window switch fix to them and they looked at me with a blank stare. Apparently they are not open to suggestions. (do I sound bitter?)  I am still not confident it is fixed. And my bumper to bumper warranty ran out in July.  I remote start my truck alot in the winter.  I do believe when the problem happened, each time I did remote start. Then once I get in to push the button, nothing happens and I can't even turn it off. Locks work but it will not give me control to drive.

Good luck with yours! I really hope they figure it out for all of us!

Posted

I talked to my rep today after sending her the info above and she said it makes sense. I will let you all know how things go Wednesday (had to change the appointment on my end). They will do the diagnostics as described above.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 10/6/2022 at 12:56 PM, MayorMike said:

I talked to my rep today after sending her the info above and she said it makes sense. I will let you all know how things go Wednesday (had to change the appointment on my end). They will do the diagnostics as described above.

Did you ever get the problem fixed? 

Posted
On 10/5/2022 at 10:05 AM, Ginger Olson said:

My truck is still working at the moment since the last "fix" they did, which was de-program and then re-program my remotes. It's what they do every time and it works like a band aide until the next time. I mentioned the window switch fix to them and they looked at me with a blank stare. Apparently they are not open to suggestions. (do I sound bitter?)  I am still not confident it is fixed. And my bumper to bumper warranty ran out in July.  I remote start my truck alot in the winter.  I do believe when the problem happened, each time I did remote start. Then once I get in to push the button, nothing happens and I can't even turn it off. Locks work but it will not give me control to drive.

Good luck with yours! I really hope they figure it out for all of us!

Did you get the problem fixed?  Having the exact same problem with my truck. 

Posted

I could not get it to replicate for the dealer (of course). It is noted for the record with the dealership but I don't know how to get it addressed if I can't get it to happen when needed. I have done 2 things that you could try. First, the last time this happened, I waited 30 minutes and the vehicle started. I parked it at home for 4 days and when I got back, it was completely dead (battery). I fully charged the battery and I (#2) unplugged all usb/acc plugs. I have continued to unplug all accessories and plug in what I need after starting. I have not had the problem happen again. I keep a piece of wood in the truck so I can knock on it!

Posted
On 1/15/2023 at 1:11 PM, Antonio O said:

Did you get the problem fixed?  Having the exact same problem with my truck. 

I'm sorry you are having the same problem. It really sucks! My truck has not messed up since the last time they reprogrammed my remotes. But they have done that 3 times now on different occasions.  Hoping it sticks this time. So far so good. Good luck! 

 

Posted
On 1/12/2023 at 6:19 PM, Antonio O said:

Did you ever figure out the problem?  I'm having the same issue with my 2019 gmc sierra denali. 

This is certainly not what we like to hear, Antonio O.  Please know, customer satisfaction is extremely important to us. Our team would be more than happy to take a closer look into the concerns with your 2019 GMC Sierra Denali. To do so, please send an email to [email protected] with ATTN: Antonio O/GM Trucks in the subject line.

Please include your contact information, VIN, a brief description of your concern, and the name of your preferred dealership. We look forward to hearing from you. To learn more about GM’s Privacy Policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html. The information you provide may be monitored and recorded and is subject to the GM Privacy Statement.
 
Privacy Statement | General Motors
Your privacy is important to General Motors. This Privacy Statement addresses the personal information GM collects and how GM handles that personal information.
www.gm.com
 

Posted (edited)

I'm still having the same issue.. After the dealership reprogrammed the 3 brand new key fobs it was fine for a couple months before acting up again. Most recently, it happened on new years eve, the next day the truck had zero power (battery had 3.4v on multimeter and wouldnt hold a charge). Put in a new battery and things fine until I had the oil changed at the dealership this week then it happened again. I'm at a loss and not about to leave the truck at the dealership for weeks for them to not fix the issue again. Honestly about trade it in and get away from chevy at this point.

Edit: There was no indication the battery was getting weak and no lights/alarm, it just went bad overnight.

Edited by Doug1234
Posted

Literally sitting in a parking lot with this issue pissed off because it doesn’t seem like there is a fix. Now I deprogrammed my remotes it seems and can’t get it to recognize my key turns to turn the programming system back on to try again. Probably going to have to tow to the dealership and hope they can get me going but I’m not hopeful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 403 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...