Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First, let me apologize if this is in the wrong subforum. If it is, can a mod please assist me in moving it?

 

So... I drive a 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic. It's an LT1, with an L59 engine and 4L60e transmission with about 230k miles on both. Neither have had an overhaul.

 

Some months ago, I noticed I was suddenly accelerating sluggishly, and thought my transmission was slipping, so I limped it to my destination and parked it. After I got done, I was going to limp the truck home, but it drove normally. So I drove the truck to an auto parts store to see about checking the fluid levels and all were fine. On the way home, it was still driving normally, so I stopped at the grocery by my house to pick up ingredients for dinner, and when I started my truck, it again drove like the transmission was slipping. So I parked the truck when I got home and left it.

 

A few days later, I took the truck (not driving well) to a local transmission shop, and left it so they could evaluate it later that day. On the way, I noticed that it never changed gears. Turns out the truck was staying in 3rd gear. Anyway, they drove it, and could find no obvious problems, because it was working fine for them. They asked if the gauge cluster looked odd when it happened, because they felt like it might be the ignition switch.

 

Some details: The truck goes through intermittent times where it will work fine for several days, and where it will never work right for several days. Most days, it's a bit of a crap shoot. But one thing I noticed is that the truck never goes from working well to not working well during the course of a drive. If it starts well, it stays well, even if on for hours. If it starts badly, same story.

 

It feels, to me, like there's some reason the TCM isn't booting, or it's booting with a fault that forces the transmission into some kind of a limp mode. Has anyone ever encountered this problem before?

Posted

The wiring harness is probably contaminated with fluid causing shorts.  If yours were mine I would put a scan tool on it and monitor all the transmission functions and try to isolate the problem.

Posted
15 hours ago, swathdiver said:

The wiring harness is probably contaminated with fluid causing shorts.  If yours were mine I would put a scan tool on it and monitor all the transmission functions and try to isolate the problem.

I know that the transmission controller has power at least to the point of the fuse block. I'm not sure where further on down the stream I could measure to see if there's power getting somewhere.

 

Is there a particular scan tool which is good at monitoring transmission functions?

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Brian Scott said:

I know that the transmission controller has power at least to the point of the fuse block. I'm not sure where further on down the stream I could measure to see if there's power getting somewhere.

 

Is there a particular scan tool which is good at monitoring transmission functions?

There is a wiring harness inside the transmission.  When transmission fluid starts getting inside the wiring, it causes all kinds of shorts and weird stuff.

 

These cars were made to be worked on with the Tech-2 but any bi-directional scan tool can be used, such as the Snap-On Solus.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...