Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First, let me apologize if this is in the wrong subforum. If it is, can a mod please assist me in moving it?

 

So... I drive a 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic. It's an LT1, with an L59 engine and 4L60e transmission with about 230k miles on both. Neither have had an overhaul.

 

Some months ago, I noticed I was suddenly accelerating sluggishly, and thought my transmission was slipping, so I limped it to my destination and parked it. After I got done, I was going to limp the truck home, but it drove normally. So I drove the truck to an auto parts store to see about checking the fluid levels and all were fine. On the way home, it was still driving normally, so I stopped at the grocery by my house to pick up ingredients for dinner, and when I started my truck, it again drove like the transmission was slipping. So I parked the truck when I got home and left it.

 

A few days later, I took the truck (not driving well) to a local transmission shop, and left it so they could evaluate it later that day. On the way, I noticed that it never changed gears. Turns out the truck was staying in 3rd gear. Anyway, they drove it, and could find no obvious problems, because it was working fine for them. They asked if the gauge cluster looked odd when it happened, because they felt like it might be the ignition switch.

 

Some details: The truck goes through intermittent times where it will work fine for several days, and where it will never work right for several days. Most days, it's a bit of a crap shoot. But one thing I noticed is that the truck never goes from working well to not working well during the course of a drive. If it starts well, it stays well, even if on for hours. If it starts badly, same story.

 

It feels, to me, like there's some reason the TCM isn't booting, or it's booting with a fault that forces the transmission into some kind of a limp mode. Has anyone ever encountered this problem before?

Posted

The wiring harness is probably contaminated with fluid causing shorts.  If yours were mine I would put a scan tool on it and monitor all the transmission functions and try to isolate the problem.

Posted
15 hours ago, swathdiver said:

The wiring harness is probably contaminated with fluid causing shorts.  If yours were mine I would put a scan tool on it and monitor all the transmission functions and try to isolate the problem.

I know that the transmission controller has power at least to the point of the fuse block. I'm not sure where further on down the stream I could measure to see if there's power getting somewhere.

 

Is there a particular scan tool which is good at monitoring transmission functions?

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Brian Scott said:

I know that the transmission controller has power at least to the point of the fuse block. I'm not sure where further on down the stream I could measure to see if there's power getting somewhere.

 

Is there a particular scan tool which is good at monitoring transmission functions?

There is a wiring harness inside the transmission.  When transmission fluid starts getting inside the wiring, it causes all kinds of shorts and weird stuff.

 

These cars were made to be worked on with the Tech-2 but any bi-directional scan tool can be used, such as the Snap-On Solus.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...