2020 Rough idling 5.3

[Sntos20RST]

Hey, so I’m just trying to figure out my next step. Here’s the issue;

 

So what I’ve done to my 5.3 is change the manifold and TB to a ported 6.2 version, Carven muffler dumped down before the rear end, Stillen air ram, Red Rock cold air intake, and a Pulsar LT module. Noticed it’s idling kinda rough (needle jumping and twitching),  hiccuping while I’m driving, and a couple times actually shut off on me in traffic!!!! Now, I do have a pair of long tubes that I want to get installed as soon as I can get it dyno tuned… but I’m just not ready to fork out the 2,500 for that yet. Could this all be that I need to get the air/fuel adjusted? I can’t find a vacuum leak. Would the dealer do it ya think??I know I’ll have to pull the Pulsar out before.  The rough idling happened first when I swapped the TB and manifold, but now that I installed the Pulsar LT it’s very noticeable and it did cut out in traffic once already and cut out at cold start this morning.  Any info is appreciated. !!!! 

Edited June 17, 2022 by Sntos20RST
More info

[shakenfake]

You changed the air intake and expected the truck to run fine? The answer is yes it is an air fuel issue and no the dealer will not fix it for you. You need a tune bad.

 

 

What is a Stillen air ram? I see your hot air intake but there is no air ram there, unless it is a hood you are talking about.

[swathdiver]

What are your fuel trims doing now at idle?

[Sntos20RST]

8 hours ago, shakenfake said:

You changed the air intake and expected the truck to run fine? The answer is yes it is an air fuel issue and no the dealer will not fix it for you. You need a tune bad.

 

 

What is a Stillen air ram? I see your hot air intake but there is no air ram there, unless it is a hood you are talking about.

Never did I say I expected it to run fine. Did I??? And yes look it up brotha. Stillen air ram. Goes in place of that plastic cover at the top of the radiator. Directs the COLD air through the top part of grill before it hits the hot radiator, and into the air box. COLD-“ER” air. Not just the “hot air intake”. What an a$$hole you are. I like you.   Thanks though. I suspected it is the air/fuel. That’s a whole lotta sunshine showered personality here!

Edited June 18, 2022 by Sntos20RST
Lengthy

[Sntos20RST]

1 hour ago, swathdiver said:

What are your fuel trims doing now at idle?

Not even sure man. But I’ll try and see how I can get that info. I’m not near as awesome as most guys here. Just learning as I go through mistakes like most regular guys do! Haha! But I guess I just gotta suck it up and get that tune or go back to all OE equipped again. I just need to get you guy’s input. Appreciate it. Thanks. 

[KARNUT]

On 6/16/2022 at 11:00 PM, Sntos20RST said:

Hey, so I’m just trying to figure out my next step. Here’s the issue;

 

So what I’ve done to my 5.3 is change the manifold and TB to a ported 6.2 version, Carven muffler dumped down before the rear end, Stillen air ram, Red Rock cold air intake, and a Pulsar LT module. Noticed it’s idling kinda rough (needle jumping and twitching),  hiccuping while I’m driving, and a couple times actually shut off on me in traffic!!!! Now, I do have a pair of long tubes that I want to get installed as soon as I can get it dyno tuned… but I’m just not ready to fork out the 2,500 for that yet. Could this all be that I need to get the air/fuel adjusted? I can’t find a vacuum leak. Would the dealer do it ya think??I know I’ll have to pull the Pulsar out before.  The rough idling happened first when I swapped the TB and manifold, but now that I installed the Pulsar LT it’s very noticeable and it did cut out in traffic once already and cut out at cold start this morning.  Any info is appreciated. !!!! 

Unless things have changed wildly since my last new truck the muffler and the intake shouldn’t be an issue. Unless that’s an oiled element and over oiled. The first thing I’d tackle is the module then the TB. Don’t go to the dealer unless you go back to stock. With the exception of the muffler. There’s really no reason to mess with the throttle body unless you go wild with mods. 

[KARNUT]

Just now, KARNUT said:

Unless things have changed wildly since my last new truck the muffler and the intake shouldn’t be an issue. Unless that’s an oiled element and over oiled. The first thing I’d tackle is the module then the TB. Don’t go to the dealer unless you go back to stock. With the exception of the muffler. There’s really no reason to mess with the throttle body unless you go wild with mods. 

I almost forgot I learned the hard way. Whenever possible do one mod at a time. That way if there’s a problem you know what it is. 

[Sntos20RST]

2 hours ago, KARNUT said:

I almost forgot I learned the hard way. Whenever possible do one mod at a time. That way if there’s a problem you know what it is. 

Awesome.

[shakenfake]

That stillen looks like an interesting piece. It’s a hot air intake though. You just left the filter completely exposed to all the heat elements. 
 

 

Anyways back on topic. Yes it is the throttle body and intake manifold in answer to Karnut. I didn’t even think the 6.2 and 5.3 manis were different. Size difference?

[KARNUT]

1 minute ago, shakenfake said:

That stillen looks like an interesting piece. It’s a hot air intake though. You just left the filter completely exposed to all the heat elements. 
 

 

Anyways back on topic. Yes it is the throttle body and intake manifold in answer to Karnut. I didn’t even think the 6.2 and 5.3 manis were different. Size difference?

Interesting take on the filter. Probably before you were born I put a few of those on my trucks for the noise mostly. I started driving during the flip the air cleaner days. If you notice there’s rubber around the top that’s supposed to seal to the hood. In front of the filter should be the fender hole. It may not be perfect, it’s better than flipping the lid. 

[shakenfake]

I'm all for swapping out the stock air box. I love the look of S&B CAI. But saying that they are an improvisation over the stock is dishonest. 

Closed airbox > open

[Sntos20RST]

Yeah that rubber is “supposed” to seal it against the hood, but It’s suspect. Yeah the 6.2 throttle is a tad wider. It’s a less expensive alternative to getting an aftermarket mani and TB. Not as big, but bigger than stock 5.3. The lil mods I’ve done to it I feel that it improved the throttle response on it quite a bit. Not any real power, I know, but it’s just my daily driver. I just want it better than stock, that’s all. Not racing for real, just messing around from home to the job and back.  I am saving up to get it tuned. I’m sure that’s what will have this thing running ******.. thanks fellas. 

[Gangly]

One modification at a time is the key to diagnosing what occurred and when.  Installing a cold air intake alone will have zero effect on idle, and definitely not result in the engine cutting out.  If you monitor the "L" and "S" trims you'll see that they easily compensate for something as small as changing the cold air intake.  Changing the cold air intake and exhaust shouldn't have any adverse effects unless you change out something as substantial as the exhaust manifolds for headers, or that actual intake manifold itself which you have done. 

 

The only two modifications that could have that significant of an impact on drivability with your setup would be the intake manifold swap and the pulsar unit.  I would remove the pulsar unit first to see if that alleviates the symptoms your vehicle is experiencing.  If that doesn't resolve your issues, start checking MUCH more closely for vacuum leaks along the intake tract.  Even a tiny leak of un-metered air flow can cause significant idle issues.  Good luck with you endeavor, drivability issues can be tricky to hunt down.

Edited June 24, 2022 by Gangly