Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
23 hours ago, jaxcam02 said:

10-15 MPH might have been a bit too fast. Water can and will find its way into almost everything, especially if it is forced upwards in hefty quantities. My guess is that some of the hose clamps in the intake may have been loose or the intake manifold had a gasket that didn't seal completely and a decent quantity of water got splashed around the engine bay. I can't see an easy way that water made its way all the way through the stock airbox (although completely possible) and into the motor though if all the gaskets and hose clamps were within spec and the PCV system wasn't compromised.

Never though that anything could be loose or not sealed properly. Engine is replaced and all is ok for now, so I can't retrace them, but something I should check now that I have it home to prevent something from happening again. 

Posted

My point in my earlier post is that you can actually build a wall of water in front of you higher than your rockers if you're moving at certain speeds. It used to happen in my '80 model truck. i drove in water depths up to my doors, even coming in the door a bit one time. I was pushing a mound of water in front of me. It even bent from license plate all to hell one time. But since air intake wasn't in the grill and quarter panel, I never hydrolocked anything.

 

Glad you got it all fixed up now

  • Like 2
Posted

What will you do when your submerged electronics, sensors and wiring connections corrode, turn green and fail? Many vehicles are totalled 4 to 6 months after being submerged. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just had this happen last Wednesday. What kind of tires do you have. What we found is that the mud tread on my tires was throwing water up around the duct that goes into the air cleaner from the splash guard. The water was getting sucked in around that duct because it's not a sealed connection.  I was driving through 6-8 inches of water. 

Posted

I've been running the stock DuraTracs that came with the truck. I've heard before this isn't a sealed connection which is troubling since water could easily make it's way in from an even lower position with a minimal wading depth. Wondering if anyone has any creative solutions to this issue. Although I suppose I could wrap the connecting joints in something like Gorilla Tape or Flex Seal. Thoughts are appreciated. 

Posted

I've not seen liner extensions so far. Any idea on how you might be doing that?

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Shawn Spears said:

What we found is that the mud tread on my tires was throwing water up around the duct that goes into the air cleaner from the splash guard. The water was getting sucked in around that duct because it's not a sealed connection.

I don't understand how water is getting past the fender liner/splash guard. Care to elaborate on your findings or photos of what you are describing?

Posted

We examined another truck with the same air intake configuration that went through the same water I did without issue. The differences between the 2 trucks were that mine is a TB with Mud Tires and his is an RST with street tires. The fender liners on the TB are higher relative to the tires allowing the water picked up by the tread to be thrown/pushed up and forward into the lower engine bay around the air duct. From there the air moving through the duct into the air cleaner acted as a syphon,drawing water into the air cleaner around the somewhat loose fitting duct.

Posted
22 hours ago, Shawn Spears said:

We examined another truck with the same air intake configuration that went through the same water I did without issue. The differences between the 2 trucks were that mine is a TB with Mud Tires and his is an RST with street tires. The fender liners on the TB are higher relative to the tires allowing the water picked up by the tread to be thrown/pushed up and forward into the lower engine bay around the air duct. From there the air moving through the duct into the air cleaner acted as a syphon,drawing water into the air cleaner around the somewhat loose fitting duct.

Are you saying the fender liners are different or its because the TB has the factory lift?

 

A shield in front of the opening into the air box might be simple enough to craft. 

Posted

It's because the TB has a factory lift. All configurations of the Silverado use the same liners. Sealing the connection should be enough to mitigate the risk of water intrusion, I just prefer redundancy when it comes to preventing this from happening again. Crafting an extension for the liner should be pretty easy and inexpensive.

Posted (edited)
On 8/11/2022 at 9:44 AM, pokismoki said:

it came up to the rockers and you hydrolocked it, i think you where deeper than you imagine,  the air intake is about headlight level

 

On 8/11/2022 at 3:21 PM, Ryan S. said:

There's easily a foot or more distance between the rocker and the middle of the headlight.

 

On 8/11/2022 at 3:25 PM, Ryan S. said:

Never though that anything could be loose or not sealed properly. Engine is replaced and all is ok for now, so I can't retrace them, but something I should check now that I have it home to prevent something from happening again. 

 

On 8/24/2022 at 12:07 PM, asilverblazer said:

I don't understand how water is getting past the fender liner/splash guard. Care to elaborate on your findings or photos of what you are describing?

 

On 8/24/2022 at 12:33 PM, Shawn Spears said:

We examined another truck with the same air intake configuration that went through the same water I did without issue. The differences between the 2 trucks were that mine is a TB with Mud Tires and his is an RST with street tires. The fender liners on the TB are higher relative to the tires allowing the water picked up by the tread to be thrown/pushed up and forward into the lower engine bay around the air duct. From there the air moving through the duct into the air cleaner acted as a syphon,drawing water into the air cleaner around the somewhat loose fitting duct.

 

 

Pics below.  These T1 trucks don't draw air in from the fender like K2 and older did.  They draw air from the top of the radiator via airflow from the grille and hood area.  There is the main inlet hole on the driver's side of the radiator shield.  That path opening enters a tube that then interfaces with the air inlet of the airbox.  It is NOT a sealed fit, just two pieces of plastic that slip into each other. 

 

I have a pic from behind the wheel well area as well.  You can see the ECM is just under this and is mounted directly behind the wheel well liner.  The bottom lip of that air inlet on the airbox is only a few inches from the top of the frame rail.  

 

It's pretty clear to me how fording too fast can get water to ingest into the airbox IMO.  5mph might have saved the original motor from ingesting water.  Enough deep water flow into the wheel well, its gonna get past that liner all day long.  Its bad enough you can see dried salt spray on the bottom of the airbox and all over the ECM (what a "great" place to mount the ECM by the way...)

 

IMG_3847.thumb.jpg.4ff07e884f4b7c859628bef47f6f2759.jpg

 

IMG_3849.thumb.jpg.d98a70a6faba5c7b828ebceeb0552c78.jpg

 

IMG_3853.thumb.jpg.86c6ca8d35296f9bca2ffd83efd03b7e.jpg

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 561 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...