11 equinox

[steveo2155]

Looking at buying a 11 equinox awd 50000 miles 4 cyl as a commuter vehicle. What kind of mpg can I expect? Also I've heard some bad about the 4 cyl in these but didn't know if that was just like every other engine you hear good and bad or if it is junk?

[CamGTP]

Likely in the mid to upper 20's depending on where you drive and how you drive.

 

The only real bad about the 2.4's is some of them like to burn oil. Most service stuff on them is pretty easy except for maybe the water pump, those are harder and need a special tool to do them.

 

My dad has a 2012 Malibu with the 2.4, runs great and gets over 30mpg in that car.

[Grumpy Bear]

https://carbrain.com/blog/chevrolet-equinox-problems

 

We have a 2015 Terrain. Same powertrain. Of the three major engine issues we have suffered two. Oil consumption and cam phaser solenoid failure. 2012 models had the timing chain issues addressed. In the 2011 it is a fairly common issue. 

 

The design of the CCV (crankcase ventilation system) lends itself to freezing in the colder months where temperatures go below 17 F. 

 

City stop and go gives 25 to 28 mpg. 55 mph highway can be over 30 mpg. Interstate 27 to 29 in fair weather, worse in heavy winds and speeds over 70 mph. 

 

IMHO it's most insidious flaw is the GDI HPFP. They don't fail often but when they do it can be hard to detect and the consequences snowball. Fuel in the oil draws moisture which makes freezing the CCV orifice all that much easier. That in turn causes emulsion foam in the oil, plugged oil drain back holes, sticking rings, oil consumption and so on and so forth. 

 

Still this doesn't mean it can't be a decent vehicle. The unit your looking at has very low miles and most of these things take nearly the warranty period to show themselves and give clues. 

 

Check the dip stick for foam. Even if they recently changed oil the traces will be in the wire cable. 

Check the oil fill cap for foam. 

 

Idle the engine from cold. Listen for timing chain rattle and piston slap. You should hear nothing but the injector and pump ticking.

 

Once warmed a bit remove the fresh side CCV tube and dip stick. Put your finger first over the air pipe under the valve cover sealing it. Then another over the dipstick tube. In a few seconds you will hear a squeal if the CCV orifice is clear and free. If not you may feel a slight pressure. Not good.

 

Give the tail pipe a good look. A healthy motors pipe is clean. One that is using oil or running rich will be sooty. That rich condition can be a sign of the HPFP leaking and fuel being drawn into the CCV or weak ignition components. 

 

If it passes muster ask for the service record. If the chain has been replaced at the dealership it will be noted and is a plus. If not and still is quite the oil you chose has a great deal to do with most of these issues going forward. 

 

The cam phaser issue is electrical in most cases. A solenoid shorting internally. It will run like junk but can be driven carefully to a garage without damaging anything.

 

The book OCI is way to long for the average DEXOS oil. GM knows this and reeled it back from 7500 to 5000 which still may be to long depending on the oil and the motors condition. 

 

Okay if you decide to buy this thing and it passed all checks then UOA's are going to be your friend keeping that way. Fuel in oil by GC method. Many of the issues spring from fuel shellacs and gums in the oil. A TUNNER test in a scheduled spot check fashion if a really good idea. Synthetic Advantage has such a service and the only one I know of that uses the GC method of fuel detection. 

 

We have 185,000 on our unit and it's been a struggle which would have been less so IF someone had educated me on this motor before hand. Allot of this could have been avoided with some better INFORMED choices. It's running well enough now and I plan to keep it but I would be allot more thoughtful and inquisitive if I were to buy a second GM ECOTEC I-4.

 

Have fun