Jump to content

Identify suspension parts?

Graham1992

By Graham1992
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure my truck was lowered when I got it, and it appears the rear block is gone and has shackles(I'm brand new to this). Can anybody identify that this is a drop shackle? The truck still has a rake to it. Difference of about 3 inches it looks... If it already has blocks removed and drop shackles, what else could I do to lower it? 

Photo Oct 13 2022, 12 07 10 PM.jpg

Photo Oct 13 2022, 12 07 18 PM.jpg

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

It's running a flip kit.

 

The factory runs the leaf springs on top of the axles and someone installed a flip kit to put the axle over the leafs. Then they cut off the factory shackle bracket and installed a aftermarket shackle bracket with a drop shackle. But technically with where the new position is on the shackle bracket it can raise the rear end up depending on what hole is used on the shackle.

 

You won't be able to go lower without cutting off the factory bump stop bracket on the frame. As you can see from the picture, the bump stop is completely gone already and any lower will just bottom out on every single bump.

UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted (edited)

Agree with CamGTP with the exception that the drop shackle being in the hole farthest from the hanger means it is in its highest setting and it could be lowered by putting it in the hole closer to the hanger or even more by putting in the factory shackle.  As it is currently configured you are probably getting a 4-5" drop (depending on which truck - CC, EC or RC) which is typical with a flip kit and the full 2" drop shackle.  With factory shackle you can usually get about 6-7" drop on the rear.

 

There is a lot of space between the axle and bed and if lowered the two would get closer to the point that you would really need to install a c-notch to go lower.

 

There is an excellent thread on Lowering that is pinned in the Mod portion of the forum whihc has a lot of information.  It is great area to ask questions like this one.

Edited by UofAZCats
Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, CamGTP said:

It's running a flip kit.

 

The factory runs the leaf springs on top of the axles and someone installed a flip kit to put the axle over the leafs. Then they cut off the factory shackle bracket and installed a aftermarket shackle bracket with a drop shackle. But technically with where the new position is on the shackle bracket it can raise the rear end up depending on what hole is used on the shackle.

 

You won't be able to go lower without cutting off the factory bump stop bracket on the frame. As you can see from the picture, the bump stop is completely gone already and any lower will just bottom out on every single bump.

 

3 hours ago, UofAZCats said:

Agree with CamGTP with the exception that the drop shackle being in the hole farthest from the hanger means it is in its highest setting and it could be lowered by putting it in the hole closer to the hanger or even more by putting in the factory shackle.  As it is currently configured you are probably getting a 4-5" drop (depending on which truck - CC, EC or RC) which is typical with a flip kit and the full 2" drop shackle.  With factory shackle you can usually get about 6-7" drop on the rear.

 

There is a lot of space between the axle and bed and if lowered the two would get closer to the point that you would really need to install a c-notch to go lower.

 

There is an excellent thread on Lowering that is pinned in the Mod portion of the forum whihc has a lot of information.  It is great area to ask questions like this one.

Thank both of you, the plan was to lower the truck anyway and I think the last guy made it A LOT cheaper to do so this just made my day. 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

If you cut the bump stop bracket off the frame it allows for at least a 7in rear drop without a c-notch. But at that point you need/want helper bags if you put anything in the bed or plan to tow anything.

Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, CamGTP said:

If you cut the bump stop bracket off the frame it allows for at least a 7in rear drop without a c-notch. But at that point you need/want helper bags if you put anything in the bed or plan to tow anything.

Talked to a shop who said they could do a 4/6 drop with minimal parts because of what's on the truck for 1k out the door, think that's gonna be my next route. Thanks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...