Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
7 hours ago, SilverBlahdo said:

One more question in addition to the text/pics above:

 

should this cv axel end be showing like this??

IMG_6263.jpeg

IMG_6262.jpeg

Take that back and make them idiots turn the CV axles around!!! Those are installed backwards! How the hell does a stealership get away with work this bad!!

Posted
Just now, jj141979 said:

Take that back and make them idiots turn the CV axles around!!! Those are installed backwards! How the hell does a stealership get away with work this bad!!

Ooppss nevermind... i just looked at it again and they look like they are installed correctly... my bad... sorry!

Posted

At this point I would stop taking it back to that dealer. Maybe take to another dealer and ask them to look at it and provide comments, they use that as leverage to get the first dealer to pay the second dealer to do it right. To me it looks like the CV axle is too short. Are you sure that they used the new CV axles that come in the trail boss kit?

Posted
1 hour ago, jaxcam02 said:

At this point I would stop taking it back to that dealer. Maybe take to another dealer and ask them to look at it and provide comments, they use that as leverage to get the first dealer to pay the second dealer to do it right. To me it looks like the CV axle is too short. Are you sure that they used the new CV axles that come in the trail boss kit?

Whether TB, or Non-TB CV's, it does not affect the seating depth.  Those CV's aren't installed all the way in and the correction needs to be made for the bad install.  The cracked plastic housing above the shock mount occurrs when they get sloppy moving the component out of the way to remove the shock bolts, more specifically when they try to re-center it and push it back down after the install to get it to sit on the shock mount. 

 

Whoever did the install had no idea what they were doing, and considering the price you have to pay a dealership for an install of something so simple, I would firmly suggest they fix it, then take it to another dealership and have them verify the work. 

 

Soap Box Tangent:

A dealership will be the first entity to try and convince you that you should only trust a "factory certified technician" with your vehicle because "only they know how to work on your vehicle properly", but then you get work like you see above.  Its obvious that this technician was too incompetent or lazy to verify:

1)  Something as simple as rear block orientation and placement when there are actual photos showing how to do it, or

2)  Verifying the CV seated depth was correct when he could plainly see the seated depth before he removed the original CV's

 

Knowing the technician was too lazy or incompetent to verify those two VERY simple parts of the install, do you have faith that he took the time to verify proper torque specs (and additional rotational degrees) and torqued all of your bolts to spec?  If he was too lazy or incompetent to do the first two, I would not have faith in his word that he did the third.  I wouldn't trust ANY alleged work performed by that technician, and that's what scares me the most about having any dealership do work on my vehicles. 

 

Don't get me wrong, there are MANY excellent factory technicians/mechanics, of which some are on this forum and provide phenomenal help and insight, but there are others who aren't capable of carrying a used oil filter to the trash can without getting confused.  I highly value these forum member's insight and wouldn't hesitate to let a few of them work on my vehicle, but I don't trust dealerships as a whole when they are willing to let somebody who obviously had no business doing this type of work, perform such a shoddy procedure on a vehicle system that is instrumental in maintaining the safety of it's operator and passengers.  Good technicians are worth their weight in gold, but apparently this dealership measures weight in slag.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks everyone for all the replies! 
 

should i be concerned with damage to the transfer case/wheel bearings from incomplete cv install? Worth pushing them for extended warranty or some other compensation?

Posted (edited)

Wheel Bearings: No affect

Transfer Case: No affect

If I was really worried about this then I would ask for extended warranty on the CV axles and front differential since you can see the o-ring wasn't seated properly which would theoretically allow debris/dirt to enter the front differential.

 

To be honest though, I doubt there will be any adverse affects to your vehicle from this as long as you get it sorted quickly. 

Edited by Gangly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...