Jump to content

Adding interior LEDs

Adolfo Alonso
 Share

Recommended Posts

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would assume so. I converted a pair of multi pro tailgate lights into footwell lighting on a '21.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ETA... they are .7 watts each.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by gemarsh
Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted

Yes this will work. I and others have done it. You will need to do a lot of reading for this install to get it right.

Especially read Kodiak Denalis and SLT owners posts. I did install my lights following SLT owners instructions. Read this post thoroughly and it will be well worth it All T1s should have come with this mod from the factory.

 

 

Klutch Enthusiast

Klutch

Posted
Posted (edited)

This thread the guy added interior lights and tapped into the wire that they come on/off with the rest of the lights when you open the door (and dim as well).  I'm in the process of trying to locate the correct wire in the 22-up refresh models to do the same thing.  I have the upfitter guide but am a schematic dummy.  OP in the thread below seems to not be active anymore 

 

 

Upfitter for the 22-up

 

https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/22-Silverado-1500-new-electrical-body-builder-042822.pdf

Edited by Klutch
Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
Posted
On 2/3/2023 at 6:32 PM, Adolfo Alonso said:

Hi guys, 

As all of you know, the Silverado regular cab has awful interior lightning.... I want to add a couple of 12v LEDs like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFU4QD6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

Anyone knows if I can yous tap weld this leds to the OEM led circuit?

 

Thanks

Get the 11mm versions instead of the 6mm which were not very bright when I first tried them. They were too dim to illuminate the interior so I ended up with the 11mm installed. See the link to the Interior Lighting thread above from Bikerjon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • Atlas
      AC diagnostic on a neo-classic Camaro

      By Atlas · Posted

      tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Byrds8
      Ac not keeping up

      By Byrds8 · Posted

      Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • KARNUT
      Ac not keeping up

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • Silverado4x4
      Ac not keeping up

      By Silverado4x4 · Posted

      AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...