Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've owned my 22' Custom for a little over a year now and have constantly had to listen to complaints from my kids over not having any power in the backseat for them to charge any of their electronics.  I've been searching on here for quite some time for a how to add power, but never came up with anything.  This weekend I took matters into my own hands and made it happen.  I found a adapter plug w/ wire pigtail that plugs into the oem 12v outlet in the dash, and a set of aftermarket usb and 12v plugs.

 

Started out by removing the lower dash trim panel.  1 7mm bolt on drivers side and 4 metal clips hold it on, and pulls off.

 

There is a 2nd trim panel that pulls straight out that is held on by I think 6 metal clips.

 

This step can be done 1 of 2 ways; 1st is remove the 12v plug from the dash, which I was unable to get it to release.  2nd way (way I went) was to completely remove the radio/thermostat control panel to gain access.  Used a non-marring trim tool and popped the silver trim piece off and then removed 6 torx screws to pull the panel off.

 

Once panel was removed I simply unplugged the factory 12v harness plug, and plugged in the adapter with new 12v power lead wires.

 

I then ran a red and white wire from the dash, under the carpet in the center hump, back to the jump seat.  Once I had the wire back to the jumpseat, I moved to the backseat area and popped the back panel of jumpseat off.  This is done by using trim tool to pop the side panels off first, then the center panel pops off as well.

 

With the panel removed, I fished my wires up through the jumpseat and out the back and added my quick connects to the ends.

 

I then marked the holes to cut out for my 2 new plugs on the center panel and cut both holes out.  The 2 plugs where then installed.

 

I plugged the new usb and 12v plugs in to make sure they worked before buttoning everything back up.  Once confirmed, All trim panels were put back in place and good to go.

 

Please excuse the dirty truck, haven't attempted to clean it with it being cold.  

12v plug.jpg

plugs.jpg

lowr panel.jpg

mid panel.jpg

plug wire.jpg

wire carpet run.jpg

console panel removed.jpg

hole mock up.jpg

plugs installed.jpg

Posted

install only took about an hour.  Hardest part was fishing the wires under the carpet.  My wire tool kept hitting the ductwork and binding up.  Our long road trips will be much more pleasant now without the kids constantly wanting stuff plugged in up front.  We got to the point where we were running an extension cord from the front 120v outlet up front, to the back so they could plug in (yes janky I know, but it worked).  Now they can simply plug in themselves in the back.  This is one install I'm glad I was able to get completed.  Such a simple, yet missed accessory missed on the Custom model.

Posted

That is awesome! Thank you for posting this how-to. I've been wanting to put USB outlets and an aux port on the back of my front-bench seat console, but have trying to figure out where to pull power from. This is it! Do you have a part number for the Wolf adapter? I do not see it on the packaging and 

 

Thank you so much for posting this. I'm going to order the adapter as soon as I can find the right part number.

 

Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-2000-2021-Cadillac-Detectors-Cigarette/dp/B08W3581MK

Posted

yes that is it Matt.  I actually ordered it off Ebay, but yes same one.  The USB/12V ports came from Amazon.  I kept looking for something that was flush mount and looked closer to oem, but didn't find anything.  The ones I got actually had a plate they supposed to be inserted into, and then screwed into place.  I elected to ditch the plate and flush mount the 2 ports directly into my console for a cleaner install.  

 

Also, up until this weekend my front 12v plug was always on from factory which didn't bother me as only thing ever plugged in to it was a phone charger.  While completing this install I figured I'd better change it over to switched power in case my kids left something plugged in in the back seat and ended up with a dead battery.  I'm sure about everyone on this site has seen how to do that, but in case you haven't, it's as simple as removing the fuse panel cover on passenger side of dash and moving 50 amp fuse over 1 spot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • We had two Toyota’s with that engine in the mid 80s. We had 50 gallon fuel tanks, a toolbox full of tools, an air compressor and assorted parts for our equipment. We beat those up and down pipeline ROWs until we started buying diesel trucks. Then they became parts runners and first vehicles for our teenagers first cars. Our shop Forman wrecked them both two years apart when we hired him out of high school as an apprentice. Good thing he’s an excellent mechanic. It took awhile before he could be called a good driver.
    • I have a 2025 GMC Canyon Denali.   On a trip recently the engine failed.  The dealership diagnosed a bent valve and says there is a service bulletin that indicates to 'relace the engine'.  The truck only has about 14K miles and is under warranty.   The failure occurred 5/11/2026.   So far I have worked with GM Customer Assistance and Roadside Assistance.  Evidently no engines are available and nobody will offer a date when a new one will be.   Coming up on two months with no repair or timeline and no loaner from the dealership.   GMC Customer Assistance is 'ghosting' me and keeps closing the cases I've opened with no resolution.   Hoping someone can help me on how to escalate this issue.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...