Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is this legit? Just listed 17 Silverado for sale and had a guy message me from Texas auto value and then call me and wants to fly in next week to meet at my local bank with cash to pay off loan and get title to buy my truck? 

 

 

 

 

Posted
22 minutes ago, steveo2155 said:

Is this legit? Just listed 17 Silverado for sale and had a guy message me from Texas auto value and then call me and wants to fly in next week to meet at my local bank with cash to pay off loan and get title to buy my truck? 

 

 

 

 

If you’re in the CarPro market area. I would check out their website. They push carbingo. 

Posted
2 hours ago, KARNUT said:

If you’re in the CarPro market area. I would check out their website. They push carbingo. 

I'm in iowa, not near any large cities. The offer that this texas auto value offered me was only a few hundred off my asking price, which was close to nada retail value in the first place. I posted on Facebook marketplace this morning and these guys contacted me a few hours later.

Posted
3 hours ago, steveo2155 said:

So that is why I was wondering if it is legit, I'm more than happy with the offer. Seems too easy to be true 

 

Most of the deals on Facebook are too good to be true.

Posted

The scam is: I want to buy your truck I can have my brother in law to pay for it, he is in your town closing up a deal for me. Problem is that my customer gave him a check for ****** many dollars, can you deposit it, wait for it to clear, then give him your personal check for the balance and keep $500 for the trouble, I trust you. Then just give him the truck and we are all good.

The bank will clear the check because you are a good customer, but they find out the check is bogus and take the money out of your account (yes, its legal) and you are screwed.

 

If you feel any hint of discomfort now you will feel more discomfort when you find out what happened.

 

 

Posted

However this isn't a private buyer. It is a company called Texas Auto Value and they fly in, meet at my bank where the title is held. Inspect my truck at the bank, then go into the bank, pay cash to the teller - since there is a lien on it - and get the title to it. I would sign over and they do a bill of sale. I confirmed everything is cash at the bank, no checks, no transfers of any kind. That is why I am having a hard time figuring out what the scam would be on their end- assuming they show up next week when they say they are going to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

As of now, I am supposed to meet them next week at my bank. I talked to the bank and they said as long as it's cash they can release title to them right then and there. Texas auto value said they will provide bills of sale. Still not sure if this is all legit or not but I guess we will see. If it's cash verified by the bank I would think I don't have anything to worry about.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

The be-all-end-all would be to just have them wire the money while you're at your bank. Theres really no doubt at that point. But, a counterfeit marker checker would verify cash of course. 

 

On 3/15/2023 at 5:13 PM, Homewrecker007 said:

Most of the deals on Facebook are too good to be true.

Sometimes, there are honest people in the world. Case in point: I put my '12 up for sale recently and priced it for a few hundred under top dollar; excellent condition KBB selling price. Someone messaged me later that evening asking if they could come see it the following day (Saturday). They showed up and expressed satisfaction of the condition (I babied it and it was rust-free despite being in Minnesota). Went for a test drive and they said they'd take it for my asking price. They came later in the week with a bank check (local-ish, as they were only about an hour drive from me). It was the easiest, best car-sales transaction I think I've ever had.

  • Thanks 2
Posted
5 hours ago, carkhz316 said:

The be-all-end-all would be to just have them wire the money while you're at your bank. Theres really no doubt at that point. But, a counterfeit marker checker would verify cash of course. 

 

Sometimes, there are honest people in the world. Case in point: I put my '12 up for sale recently and priced it for a few hundred under top dollar; excellent condition KBB selling price. Someone messaged me later that evening asking if they could come see it the following day (Saturday). They showed up and expressed satisfaction of the condition (I babied it and it was rust-free despite being in Minnesota). Went for a test drive and they said they'd take it for my asking price. They came later in the week with a bank check (local-ish, as they were only about an hour drive from me). It was the easiest, best car-sales transaction I think I've ever had.

It's good to know there's still some honest people out in the world.  Most of the deals I run across on Facebook they are pretty shady. I've had 2 good experiences with marketplace.

Posted
1 hour ago, Homewrecker007 said:

It's good to know there's still some honest people out in the world.  Most of the deals I run across on Facebook they are pretty shady. I've had 2 good experiences with marketplace.

Oh, by and large it's tire kicking and BS about 80% of the time. It's just whether buying or selling, the screaming deals that can be had once in awhile is worth putting up with the shenanigans. At least for now.

  • Like 1
Posted

I closed the deal today. They showed up at my bank with cash, bill of sale, etc all verified by the bank. The only thing I am not familiar with was statement of facts form that looked like the following and had place to sign. Anyone familiar with this form?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20230320_174451.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...