Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, rdonarski said:

Yesterday I was working my job as a boat inspector at a local boat ramp (checking for invasive species). A gentleman pulled up with a 2500HD LTZ Z71 Sport. Nice truck. I was giving him crap on it being overkill to pull his pontoon boat out. He said he uses it mainly for pulling a large 5th wheel. Has over 80K miles on it already. he and his friend both commented how rough it rides when not pulling the 5th wheel. I asked and he said it has the snowplow option too (although he like me never plans on using it). Anyhow, it made me feel better that it isn't just the difference between the WT and LTZ that makes the rough ride. I really don't mind mine, but this gives me ammunition when my wife complains about it. It's not just because I was cheap.....for a change!

Thanks for the input. That's too funny..... always good to have a little ammo....LOL. Since my wife and I only have one vehicle, ride is very important to us. After listening to everyone's experience, I'm going to stick without having any suspension changes since I don't need it. Now, just finding one without these changes without ordering is the kicker. I realize a truck is a truck but, these Denali's are the best of both worlds, comfort and hauling. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍  

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

I’ve had my share of 3/4 and one tons. They all were used for pulling. My first order of business after purchasing was adding a 100 gallon fuel tank and a tank top toolbox. It was loaded with all the tools I needed up to 3/4 inch drive. I even had a small air compressor. The tool box also housed a decent jack and stands. Not pulling my back tire air pressure was lowered. All this I consider necessary for any kind of pulling, especially the fuel tank. That all contributes to decent ride quality. There’s a ying and yang with everything. 

Thanks for the input... I hear ya! So true.... There’s a ying and yang with everything. Thanks again. Ray 👍

Posted
10 hours ago, Ray@Paula said:

Thanks for the great information. That sounds pretty rough.... After hearing the stories here, I'm going to stay away from any suspension changes other than stock. My heaviest load is my boat at approx. 7,500lb's in which my 2018 2500HD Denali handle's very easily. Also, it appears that these suspension packages may raise the truck one to two inches. My attached garage door is only two inches higher than the spec's of the Ultimate. I do have a pole barn which has a 10' overhead door but, I would rather use my attached garage. Biggest problem is, everything in transit has either the 3500 leaf spring or snow plow package on them. Closest one without, is 260 miles away with the color I want. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍

No height change with different spring ratings. They adjust them to the same nominal truck height. 
 

If you can only find trucks with camper or plow springs, it’s about as easy a diy job as rotating the wheels/tires. $600 out the door from the dealer for a new pair of springs, and it took me two hours. A lot of that time was spent figuring out how to safely jack and support the front of the truck for the first time. Once I had the front tires off the ground actually changing the springs was 30-40 minutes. No realignment needed if you set the truck to the same height as before. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Here is a link to the post where I described changing out the front torsion springs. 
 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, Another JR said:

No height change with different spring ratings. They adjust them to the same nominal truck height. 
 

If you can only find trucks with camper or plow springs, it’s about as easy a diy job as rotating the wheels/tires. $600 out the door from the dealer for a new pair of springs, and it took me two hours. A lot of that time was spent figuring out how to safely jack and support the front of the truck for the first time. Once I had the front tires off the ground actually changing the springs was 30-40 minutes. No realignment needed if you set the truck to the same height as before. 

Thank for the great info. Doesn't sound like a real bad of a job. $600.00 out the door at the dealer? Did that include the springs & labor? Thanks again. Ray 👍 

Posted
12 hours ago, Another JR said:

Here is a link to the post where I described changing out the front torsion springs. 
 

 

 

Thanks... Don't see the link. Ray

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Ray@Paula said:

Thanks... Don't see the link. Ray

You should be able to click on the box that shows my old post. The forum imbeds the link. 
 

$570 plus sales tax was the price for the parts only. I did the installation myself. The linked post was me describing what was involved. 

Edited by Another JR
Typo
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/5/2023 at 10:29 AM, Another JR said:

You should be able to click on the box that shows my old post. The forum imbeds the link. 
 

$570 plus sales tax was the price for the parts only. I did the installation myself. The linked post was me describing what was involved. 

 

On 7/5/2023 at 10:29 AM, Another JR said:

You should be able to click on the box that shows my old post. The forum imbeds the link. 
 

$570 plus sales tax was the price for the parts only. I did the installation myself. The linked post was me describing what was involved. 

Bummer... I clicked all over in your old post.... nothing. Still don't see the link. Sounds like you did the right thing doing the install yourself. Great to know that this is an option! Thanks again. Ray 👍

Posted
2 hours ago, Ray@Paula said:

 

Bummer... I clicked all over in your old post.... nothing. Still don't see the link. Sounds like you did the right thing doing the install yourself. Great to know that this is an option! Thanks again. Ray 👍

Weird. Try this:

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/256818-project-report-front-torsion-springs-remove-and-replace/

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/6/2023 at 3:45 PM, Another JR said:

Thank You Jon, Got the link! Awesome job & write up!! I can definitely see that it was well worth the work along with price. It's nice to know that having an unwanted snowplow package can be dealed with if needed. I may have to go this route as well if I don't order my truck. Glad it all worked out with your camper... Nothing worse than a harsh ride traveling cross country. This thread is a keeper!! Tganks again. Ray 👍

Posted

Chevy  trucks for almost 30 years, last year was my first 3/4 ton . it has the snow plow prep, I wouldn't change a thing.

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, Hoginedgewood said:

Chevy  trucks for almost 30 years, last year was my first 3/4 ton . it has the snow plow prep, I wouldn't change a thing.

Thanks for the input. 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 5,695 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...