Jump to content

Interior Dome light - Add or upgrade existing

Elite130
 Share

Recommended Posts

Elite130 Enthusiast

Elite130

Posted
Posted

I can't be the only one who feels the stock interior dome lights are sub-par. I need to get more light in the cab. I'm leaning towards adding a couple Baja Design's dome lights. One for the front row and another for the rear. Has anyone added any lighting to supplement the stock dome lights? I assume there are not upgrades available for the existing lights.

  • 1 month later...
loghead Enthusiast

loghead

Posted
Posted
On 7/5/2023 at 11:30 AM, Elite130 said:

I can't be the only one who feels the stock interior dome lights are sub-par. I need to get more light in the cab. I'm leaning towards adding a couple Baja Design's dome lights. One for the front row and another for the rear. Has anyone added any lighting to supplement the stock dome lights? I assume there are not upgrades available for the existing lights.

I couldnt agree with you more. I am still trying to find my way around the interior so when I get back from camping this week I should have a better idea where I am going to consentrate to put some lights. The first step will determine where to tap into the lighting system.

64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

The only access I have found for interior lighting is in one of the blocks on the BCM plugs. There is an instruction manual (document ID 5862954) for adding lighted thresholds as an accessory that details where to access it the power. The 20-23 HD models could be tapped into on a gray wire under the glovebox but the 24's are different. 

The 24 instructions I saw require a new pin to be placed in a connector, the pins are not easy to find and much care is needed when removing the plug and adding the pin. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Kerry Pulaski Enthusiast

Kerry Pulaski

Posted
Posted

SC's reply is correct. The '24's cabin wiring is altogether new and different from <'23. 

He said he used two GM clear cab clearance lamps, to tap into the sill plate kit X1 pin #1 voltage  supply. I do not know what those clearance LED's voltage rating is. SC said they work well

The cabin lighting is terrible I agree. Can't even see the running boards at night to get a safe step.

I'm still fighting to build a safe add-on circuit off the Dome/Map LED feed, to power a low milli-amp coil draw small 12 vdc. relay fed from a Piggyback 5 amp fuse off the fuse box. This not to draw hardly any current off the Dome / Map circuit.

If not done correctly, will damage that digital power circuit in the BCM, if overloaded, or produce error codes, or both.

There is a illuminated sill plate option / kit, that taps into the BCM X1 plug pin #1, comes on /off with the Dome/Map lights.

I found the Molex brand wire terminal GM p/n pic attached. This is the type included in the sill light kit. So not to purchase that expensive sill kit, just for the harness.

Pic attached is what I added to my '24 so far. Temp power to test directly off the fuse box 12 vdc.  4 ea. KC Hi-Lite Cyclone pucks is what I used, draw .4 amps ea.

 

There is a You Tube video from Don's Life, on his AT4X, adding an aftermarket interior lighting kit. Runs off the fuse box tap in, and controlled with a Bluetooth phone App or it's own hard-wire remote. Don't  think it can be made to be also switched from the Dome lamp circuit.

 

GM really blew it on this one. Shame Shame. Even my old '03 Tahoe had lights on the door map pockets, lit up the running boards well.

 

 

'24 GMC DENALI CAB FOOTWELL LED LIGHTING ADDED.jpg

Denali Illuminated Door Sill Kit #85136964.jpg

'24 GMC X1 SILL LEAD WIRE.jpg

  • Like 1
64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

Look for a thread I posted about adding lights to a 2024 interior. If you search document ID 85527849 it will give you the GM instructions for a connection to the power for the interior lighting. This method is straight from GM if you want to add lighting for the floor. I put 2 simple clear led lights in the underside of the dash at the drivers and front passengers position. 

20230917_175121.jpg

20230917_171823.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...