Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This may be far fetched but has anyone had issues with their climate control?  My air conditioning works fine blows and everything, but when it gets cold out my heater will not blow. Say it’s 45 out and set the climate control to 80 the blower will not blow but when turning the climate control to 70 it’ll begin to blow air from the vents?  I’m not sure if it’s a blower control Module, thermostat sensor, or the climate control panel. Let me know if you can help

Posted
On 10/18/2023 at 11:20 PM, BradR said:

This may be far fetched but has anyone had issues with their climate control?  My air conditioning works fine blows and everything, but when it gets cold out my heater will not blow. Say it’s 45 out and set the climate control to 80 the blower will not blow but when turning the climate control to 70 it’ll begin to blow air from the vents?  I’m not sure if it’s a blower control Module, thermostat sensor, or the climate control panel. Let me know if you can help

This is certainly not what we like to hear, BradR.  Please know, customer satisfaction is extremely important to us. Our team would be more than happy to take a closer look into the concerns with the climate control on your vehicle. To do so, please send an email to [email protected] with ATTN: BradR/GM Trucks in the subject line.

Please include your contact information, VIN, a brief description of your concern, and the name of your preferred dealership. We look forward to hearing from you. To learn more about GM’s Privacy Policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html. The information you provide may be monitored and recorded and is subject to the GM Privacy Statement.
 
Privacy Statement | General Motors
Your privacy is important to General Motors. This Privacy Statement addresses the personal information GM collects and how GM handles that personal information.
www.gm.com
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...