Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone install the STL010 or updated GM transmission thermostat?

 

I don’t want to do the pill flip because I live in an area where we get below freezing temps and 4 full seasons. 
 

Not sure if my 2018 8L90 has the updated part. It’s hard to read what number is stamped in the trans thermostat. 
 

my trans temps are always 180 - 200 during the summer and maybe got to 205 when crossing the desert with outside temps 115 - 118

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf

Edited by 2018GMC
  • 2018GMC changed the title to Lower Transmission temp. Updated GM TBV vs STL010 6L80 8L90 10L90
Posted

First this TBS is for the 6 speed 6L80E or 6L90E. The STL010 kit works because the TBV internals are all identical between the 6, 8 and 10 speed models, meaning one could buy the TBV for the six speed and swap pills. The pill cannot be bought separately. 

 

Second, the STL010 does the same thing a pill flip with the ability to short circuit cooler if it should plug. It will not plug from cold fluid.  

 

Third, prior to 2014 the six speeds didn't use a TBV nor have most automatics from any manufacture since the early 1960's and many yet today like the 6T45E. Nor did any provide and internal bypass for cold weather. The STL010 is a solution in search of a problem.

 

Fourth, in factory form the ATF in the winter, especially in vehicles used in trips under 25 miles will experience the same ATF temperatures no matter what method you use. From 25 miles and onward the 70C pill will hold a higher temperature than any other method or device.

 

   

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

8 speeds seem to not mind the heat.  What they do mind is the wrong fluid or the original, outdated fluid that causes the notorious "8 speed shudder".  

 

Being you are in Arizona and exposed to high heat, best option is a shortened drain interval aka the severe use schedule in the owners manual.  Change the ATF (Mobil 1 LV ATF Synthetic HP ONLY) every 45,000mi.  The temps you see now are what I see in NY with my 8 speed, even on a hot 90 degree day.  

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, newdude said:

8 speeds seem to not mind the heat.  What they do mind is the wrong fluid or the original, outdated fluid that causes the notorious "8 speed shudder".  

 

Being you are in Arizona and exposed to high heat, best option is a shortened drain interval aka the severe use schedule in the owners manual.  Change the ATF (Mobil 1 LV ATF Synthetic HP ONLY) every 45,000mi.  The temps you see now are what I see in NY with my 8 speed, even on a hot 90 degree day.  


I hear ya. I changed the fluid myself, did the driveway flush and exchanged 12qts with the new blue label fluid. My 2018 only has 23K on it but I wanted to change out the factory fluid that can absorb moisture. 
 

I still get the odd clunky mixup shift every once in awhile in stop and go traffic but I’ve never had the shudder issue and don’t want to experience it. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...