Jump to content

Help with GM Kicker Sub/Amp Upgrade

Mille170

By Mille170
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mille170 Enthusiast

Mille170

Posted
Posted

I have read nearly every thread/post on the Kicker upgrade for our tucks and I am still a little confused by which kit I need.  I have one of the oddball 2021 trucks that has the 8in screen but IOR code.  RPO code confirmed by the build sheet for my truck's vin.  

 

All info and threads point to me needing the 19417165 Kicker model with secondary amp, but that unit seems to be discontinued and/or out of stock everywhere. From my understanding the 19417165 and 19417166 are for the IOR and IOS coded truck but it looks like the 19417166 is the only one that is readily available.  Install instructions for each kit appear to be the same, would the difference in each kit just be the plugs on the T harness that installs into the radio module?  Would the 19417166 (IOS Model) kit for sure not work in an 8in scree IOR truck?

 

Last question, has someone installed the 19417165 kit in and 8in screen IOR truck?  I think I have this all sorted out, its just odd to me that the 19417165 kit seems to be discontinued. 

 

Appreciate the help. 

Daniel Formichelli Enthusiast

Daniel Formichelli

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was in that debate for a few.  Reached out to 404parts.  Helped me decide and he thinks I am a secret agent.

 

I did the IOR to IOU swap after much needed assistance from Infotainment. So I have 8" screen.  I also have the smaller 200 watt version.  Pretty easy to install. Sounds good. Bought a kicker knob to adjust as needed. Just make sure you switch all the dip switches to up on the attached amp.

 

(DIP switches are Switch 1,2 and 3 are gain. There are 4 settings from all 3 down to all 3 up. Switch 4 is the remote turn on selection. Switch 5 turns the crossover on or off. Switch 6 adjusts the slope of the crossover from 24db (on) to 12db (off).)

 

200-Watt Subwoofer Kit by Kicker® – 404 Parts

 

No issues. Although lost storage space under seat.  Plan on making a smaller one.

 

Edited by Daniel Formichelli
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, Mille170 said:

I have read nearly every thread/post on the Kicker upgrade for our tucks and I am still a little confused by which kit I need.  I have one of the oddball 2021 trucks that has the 8in screen but IOR code.  RPO code confirmed by the build sheet for my truck's vin.  

 

All info and threads point to me needing the 19417165 Kicker model with secondary amp, but that unit seems to be discontinued and/or out of stock everywhere. From my understanding the 19417165 and 19417166 are for the IOR and IOS coded truck but it looks like the 19417166 is the only one that is readily available.  Install instructions for each kit appear to be the same, would the difference in each kit just be the plugs on the T harness that installs into the radio module?  Would the 19417166 (IOS Model) kit for sure not work in an 8in scree IOR truck?

 

Last question, has someone installed the 19417165 kit in and 8in screen IOR truck?  I think I have this all sorted out, its just odd to me that the 19417165 kit seems to be discontinued. 

 

Appreciate the help. 

 

 

IOR with 8 inch screen isn't an "oddball".  There is IOR with 7" screen on WT, Custom and Custom TB, and then on LT, RST and LT Trail Boss come standard with IOR and 8" screen.

 

19417165 is the IOR kit and is discontinued.  

 

The instructions for 19417166 is the IOS kit.  The instructions may look the same, but that doesn't mean the product is the same.  The kits are different for a reason...  

 

You can still get 19417164 just the subwoofer however, those are available.  

 

If you really want the 19417165, there is probably stock somewhere in the US at dealers.  

Edited by newdude
Mille170 Enthusiast

Mille170

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Appreciate the help, now that I have started down this rabbit hole I am leaning toward a full integration harness and basic amp from John Adams then just doing a powered sub like a Kicker hideaway.  Should be close to the same level of plug and play and a bit cheaper. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...