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Posted

I'm adding some LED reverse lights.  I know others have done this.  Can someone tell (show) where to tap into the reverse light wire?  But not the trailer wiring.  

 

separate issue but I currently have to power to the trailer wiring connector as others have experienced.  So want to go straight off the truck reverse light wiring.

Posted

As long as its a small led light you could tap into one of the wires on the tail light housing. If its more than a small 1 or 2a load I would suggest you run a separate power wire to the back and use a relay. If you add much load to the OEM wiring you can quickly overwhelm the wire size. Nothing on these trucks electrically is designed for more than the manufacturer install. If you use the relay you will still need to pull a signal from the existing backup light but the power needed to trigger the relay is miniscule.  87 to power the new lights. 30 is your fused 12v+ from the battery. 86 is your ground and 85 is the signal from the backup light wire. If you use a good relay and the wiring is done correctly the relay will survive mounted to the metal structure behind either tail lamp. 

Posted (edited)

they are small LED's so I was planning on tapping into the wires on the tail light housing.   What's the best way to do that?     Remove the housings and tap in behind the housing and reinstall or tap in under the truck without removing the housings?  If so, which wires?

Edited by typhoon186
Posted

looks like the easiest way is my removing the tail light housing and tapping in behind it.  I just need to know what color wire is the reverse positive

Posted

It's not the OEM wire size that's the issue, it's the BCM sensing too much of a draw. It will cause the lights to blink 3 times then go off. I ran into this when adding lights to my truck. I ended up using the 12V+ from the trailer wiring harness for constant power and used the reverse light wire as the trigger wire for the relay. I also used a diode to prevent feedback to the circuit as I also tapped into the cargo light circuit so either can trigger the lights I added to the hitch.

  • Like 3
Posted
13 hours ago, typhoon186 said:

From a previous post:  Its the light green wire..  Will try tomorrow and see

 

61A2AEB4-A0E0-4059-B749-E4EFA609C40F.jpeg

You might get away with that line tap in SC but that definitely wont last up here in the rust belt. I typically cut the wire and use a heat shrink butt splice to make the connection and then use a second heat shrink sleeve over that. The salt eats these things alive. 

Posted (edited)

Ha, copy that.  In South Carolina we just put salt on our French fries and margarita glasses. 

Edited by typhoon186
  • Like 2
Posted

I used T taps on my wires and then taped them up. I live in Michigan as well and been fine for the last 2 years.

Posted

The last few trucks I had I tapped in to the reverse light wire on the round trailer plug and it worked fine, I see you said you didn't want to do that but it's the perfect place for it.

  • Like 1
Posted

On these trucks the only thing that works on the trailer plug is the 12V+ and ground unless a trailer is plugged in. That's the reason for tapping in at the light wiring itself.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I used the Putco quick connect harness on my 22 when I installed my Rigid auxiliary reverse lights.  Not the cheapest but, high quality and have had it installed for a year without issues. It completely avoids tapping into the factory lights.

 

https://www.amazon.com/529005-Connect-Harness-Silverado-Sierra/dp/B07V82RZNT

 

These are the lights I installed into the pockets on the rear bumper.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJ4G9QI

  • Like 1

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