Jump to content

Tire size question

Banshee1956
 Share

Recommended Posts

Banshee1956 New Member

Banshee1956

Posted
Posted

I have a 2022 refresh Silverado 5.3 4wd. My stock tire size that came on the truck is 275/60/20. What I would like to do is upgrade to 275/65/20. It is approximately a little over an inch taller than my stock tires. Would I be able to do this without lifting the front 

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

medic_84 Enthusiast

medic_84

Posted
Posted

No…… I own a 2022 Sierra and installed the AT4 suspension on mine which is 2” taller than stock…. For you Chevy guys equivalent to a trail boss… I put 275/65/20s on and have roughly same clearance as stock. 

Roxbury5 New Member

Roxbury5

Posted
Posted
On 1/19/2024 at 5:06 PM, medic_84 said:

No…… I own a 2022 Sierra and installed the AT4 suspension on mine which is 2” taller than stock…. For you Chevy guys equivalent to a trail boss… I put 275/65/20s on and have roughly same clearance as stock. 

I have a 2020 Sierra 1500 Elevation that I'm having a 1.5" leveling kit installed and I was thinking of going with 275/65R20's on the stock wheels and was wondering about clearance. Sounds similar to your set up.

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
On 1/19/2024 at 6:50 AM, Banshee1956 said:

I have a 2022 refresh Silverado 5.3 4wd. My stock tire size that came on the truck is 275/60/20. What I would like to do is upgrade to 275/65/20. It is approximately a little over an inch taller than my stock tires. Would I be able to do this without lifting the front 

Possibly.  It might depend on your trim.  Trail Boss I definitely know it'll fit as I'm running 285/75r18 on a stock Trail Boss suspension (mathematically that's 34.8", but Goodyear says the Duratracs in that size are 35.1").  If you're not a Trail Boss I cannot say for certain either way.  The tire size you're looking at is marginally narrower and smaller than mine.  You might be able to make it work.  I think you'll clear the upper control arm, but might rub a little on the mud flaps and wheel well liner while at full lock.

TrueBlue Enthusiast

TrueBlue

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/19/2024 at 4:50 AM, Banshee1956 said:

I have a 2022 refresh Silverado 5.3 4wd. My stock tire size that came on the truck is 275/60/20. What I would like to do is upgrade to 275/65/20. It is approximately a little over an inch taller than my stock tires. Would I be able to do this without lifting the front 

I'd say yes. My blue '23 came with 17" 255/70 wheels and tires. I traded in another '23 that came with 20" 275/60 wheels and tires. As part of the deal I had them swap the wheels and tires on the trucks so I could keep the wider and taller setup. They did so, in about an hour at the dealership, and later told me there was not even a flash for the different packages that would correct the odo/speedo. So, essentially I went with a 3" larger diameter wheel and no changes to the truck's wheel well area, or anything else were required.

Edited by TrueBlue
medic_84 Enthusiast

medic_84

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don’t think that a 1.5” lift/level will do it…..  some one else may chime in as I cannot speak specifically to this but it’s tight with the 2”

   On 1/19/2024 at 4:06 PM,  medic_84 said: 

No…… I own a 2022 Sierra and installed the AT4 suspension on mine which is 2” taller than stock…. For you Chevy guys equivalent to a trail boss… I put 275/65/20s on and have roughly same clearance as stock. 

I have a 2020 Sierra 1500 Elevation that I'm having a 1.5"leveling kit installed and I was thinking of going with 275/65R20's on the stock wheels and was wondering about clearance. Sounds similar to your set up.

Edited by medic_84
medic_84 Enthusiast

medic_84

Posted
Posted
On 2/2/2024 at 9:33 AM, TrueBlue said:

I'd say yes. My blue '23 came with 17" 255/70 wheels and tires. I traded in another '23 that came with 20" 275/60 wheels and tires. As part of the deal I had them swap the wheels and tires on the trucks so I could keep the wider and taller setup. They did so, in about an hour at the dealership, and later told me there was not even a flash for the different packages that would correct the odo/speedo. So, essentially I went with a 3" larger diameter wheel and no changes to the truck's wheel well area, or anything else were required.

The wheel size has nothing to do with it it is the overall diameter of the tire and wheel set up. You could go from a 17” with a swamper to a 26” with a rubber band around it and theoretically have the same over all diameter combination. 

medic_84 Enthusiast

medic_84

Posted
Posted
Just now, medic_84 said:

The wheel size has nothing to do with it it is the overall diameter of the tire and wheel set up. You could go from a 17” with a swamper to a 26” with a rubber band around it and theoretically have the same over all diameter combination. 

Also the 275/60R20 is a stock tire/ wheel combo as is the 255/70/17 so both are stock configurations. This is why they are interchangeable. I am not saying the 275/60 is not slightly larger than the 255/70 because I believe it is about 2” taller what I am saying is he is asking about a larger tire than stock. My truck had 275/60 on it stock and very little “extra” room. I put the AT4 suspension on my truck which is a 2” over normal lift and 1/2” wheel spacers with longer wheel studs, I had to trim the front mud flap and zip tie the inner fender liner to get 275/65 to fit with my  stock 20” slt wheels

medic_84 Enthusiast

medic_84

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have attached photos for reference…… should any one be interested……

I used hub and wheel centric billet spacers 1/2” spacers……. Wheel studs are from an early 2000s super duty….. yes they fit. Front replacements are Dorman 610-530 M14-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 15.90mm Knurl, 78mm Length, Rear replacements are Dorman 610-490 M14-1.5 Serrated Wheel Stud - 15.7mm Knurl, 69.75mm Length. These front and rear replacement wheel studs are just under 5/8” longer than stock studs. This allows you to have the same thread engagement with the lug nuts as stock. The AT4 and Trail boss suspension parts can be found pretty plentiful on eBay as new take offs from 4x4 shops. You will also need the upper control arm as well as they are different on the AT4 and Trailboss. Here is the write up I used for trimming. 
https://wheelsasap.com/gmc-at4-oversized-tire-trimming-guide/

 

My tires are 275/65R20 Nitto Recon Grappler. Overall diameter is 34.09” and Overall width is 10.98”.

 

If you have any further questions please ask.

Edited by medic_84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...