Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I am considering one these hitches but have heard differing opinions on wether or not the inner tailgate will hit the hitch when in down position and ball mounted in "stowed" position.

The claims I have read were about a heavier person (285#) would cause some flex downward on the inner tailgate when entering truck bed and that is when it would hit, given the clearance is only approx. 1/2" when inner tailgate is lowered.

 

Can anyone who has this exact hitch on a 2500/3500 with Multi-Pro tailgate share their experiences on this subject?

i'd sure hate to install and then hit my inner tailgate when lowering inner tailgate and stepping into truck bed carrying something heavy (ex. Yeti ice chest full of ice and drinks; personal tool box, etc).

 

Thanks!

 

Edited by SoCal Angler
Posted

My trucks height with the trailers tounge adjusted to run level with the b&m tow and stow pinned in the 3rd hole down, does not hit the main and mid gates down. That's with no trailer hooked up.

 

I had my wife put her fingers between the angled slope and the mid gate, while I stood and jumped on the mid gate step, enough to make the bed to move. I'm on the highside of 280# and still married. 

  • Haha 2
Posted (edited)

Found a picture of where I run it. Don't even think about it anymore...

Screenshot_20240218_222845_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2407e5477c1cf5bb897c662e48a61550.jpg

 

ETA...I never remove it, but I have found that I need to grease the pins. Truck lives in the dirt and mud.

Edited by gemarsh
Added info
  • Thanks 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, gemarsh said:

Found a picture of where I run it. Don't even think about it anymore...

Screenshot_20240218_222845_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2407e5477c1cf5bb897c662e48a61550.jpg

 

ETA...I never remove it, but I have found that I need to grease the pins. Truck lives in the dirt and mud.

 In that position the inner tailgate would hit if lowered, correct?

Posted
39 minutes ago, gemarsh said:

My trucks height with the trailers tounge adjusted to run level with the b&m tow and stow pinned in the 3rd hole down, does not hit the main and mid gates down. That's with no trailer hooked up.

 

I had my wife put her fingers between the angled slope and the mid gate, while I stood and jumped on the mid gate step, enough to make the bed to move. I'm on the highside of 280# and still married. 

That’s pretty brave of your wife to trust her fingers with that test!!

 

Were the hitch balls tucked under in the stowed position during this test of bravery?!

Posted
2 hours ago, SoCal Angler said:

 In that position the inner tailgate would hit if lowered, correct?

Negative. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, SoCal Angler said:

...

 

Were the hitch balls tucked under in the stowed position during this test of bravery?!

Negative 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, NaturallyAspirated said:

I too have that one. Honestly I do think if I had a Yeti in hand and jumped on the step that I could get it to hit. Everything has its limits. 

That's my concern...given the heavier weights when boarding....it may bottom out and dent the tailgate. I like the the design and stow function and it allows me to use my multi-pro gate quickly and easily. 

 

I can use the lock out the inner tailgate function if overly concerned each time I have a hitch ball attached, but that defeats the purpose of having the gate and makes it much more cumbersome to use it.

Posted

You all must be young.

 

Save your knees. Lift your cooler and toss it into the bed with both gates down, lower the midgate step down and continue to climb into bed and drag the cooler to wherever. 

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

They are great. We have 5 of these on trucks, probably have 400k+ miles since these multi gates came out and haven't had one hit yet. We don't put them in the stow position. We pull trailers and load the beds with construction stuff nearly every day so we leave the ball ready to hook up to a trailer at all times. 

 

I highly recommend, should be standard hitch for these trucks. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Another JR said:

This one works with the multipro without the inner gate hitting. It’s a fixed 6 inch drop. I have one. 
 

https://www.northerntool.com/products/ultra-tow-heavy-duty-forged-steel-ball-mount-class-iv-6in-drop-17-000lb-tow-weight-9-1-2in-shank-32712

How does that one not hit? … it appears to stick out approx 2”-3” past end of hitch. The BW stick out past end of hitch approx 1”-2” (and is angled to reduce how much sticks out) and inner tailgate  just clears

Posted (edited)

I can send a picture in a bit. At the time this contact issue was first being talked about on the forum a few years ago, this was the first ball mount that was identified that didn’t have the contact issue. The reviews on the Northern Tool site also note that this works with the multipro tailgate. 

Edited by Another JR
Clarity
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Here’s a photo. The clearance is about 5/8 inch without any weight on the tailgate.  I think if a 220 lbs person stood on the step and jumped it might hit, but it certainly protects you from an accidental deployment of the inner tailgate with the ballmount in place. Clearance from the top of the ball to the gate is about 3.5 inches unloaded, which should protect against striking most trailer couplers. 
 

I would say this ball mount is good protection for an accidental deployment, but marginal if someone heavy wants to be stepping on the inner tailgate step when the ballmount is installed. 

24F233EE-B76A-4D9E-94EA-D7DB921CB69C.jpeg

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,634 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...