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B&W Tow and Stow for Multi-Pro Tailgate - Will it Hit Inner Tailgate?

SoCal Angler
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SoCal Angler Enthusiast

SoCal Angler

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the pic!

 

Wow, from the hitch pic alone, I thought it would have hit for sure.  But now looking at it mounted, with inner gate dropped, the immediate angle when it leaves the hitch, is how it clears. Was it designed for the GM MP tailgate? 

 

I'm 275#, and my concern was hitting when climbing up/down with something heavy in my hands.   

 

For my boat trailer (most of my lighter towing) I believe the top of ball needs to be level with top of hitch. That ball mount may be too much drop.

Edited by SoCal Angler
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gemarsh
gemarsh

You all must be young.   Save your knees. Lift your cooler and toss it into the bed with both gates down, lower the midgate step down and continue to climb into bed and drag the cooler to wh

gemarsh
gemarsh

My trucks height with the trailers tounge adjusted to run level with the b&m tow and stow pinned in the 3rd hole down, does not hit the main and mid gates down. That's with no trailer hooked up.

rjgvt
rjgvt

Did some measurements compared to my last truck, current truck, boat trailer and utility trailer, I figured the Northern Tool 6" drop hitch would work and ordered one. Also ordered a Curt 40056 10,000

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Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would say at 275 lbs and stepping up and down there would be a risk of hitting it. 
 

I don’t know if they had the mp tailgate in mind when they designed it. It’s solid forged steel, so they may have forged it that way to keep the ball in close without excessive angles. 

Edited by Another JR
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rjgvt Enthusiast

rjgvt

Posted
Posted
On 2/18/2024 at 11:31 PM, gemarsh said:

Found a picture of where I run it. Don't even think about it anymore...

Screenshot_20240218_222845_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2407e5477c1cf5bb897c662e48a61550.jpg

 

ETA...I never remove it, but I have found that I need to grease the pins. Truck lives in the dirt and mud.


Can you measure from the top of the hitch to the bottom of the lower ball with the hitch in the lowest position? Thanks if you can! I’m assuming yours is the one for a 2.5” hitch without the adapter. 

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, rjgvt said:


Can you measure from the top of the hitch to the bottom of the lower ball with the hitch in the lowest position? Thanks if you can! I’m assuming yours is the one for a 2.5” hitch without the adapter. 

 

I think the answer is 15". I included a picture with a tape measure setting on the hitch, down to the ground. 

 

Yes, 2½" receiver.20240227_124456.thumb.jpg.dfa0eafe139e2729fe1dbccefa79763d.jpg

rjgvt Enthusiast

rjgvt

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, gemarsh said:

 

I think the answer is 15". I included a picture with a tape measure setting on the hitch, down to the ground. 

 

Yes, 2½" receiver.20240227_124456.thumb.jpg.dfa0eafe139e2729fe1dbccefa79763d.jpg

 

Thanks for the measurement. The top of the hitch opening on my truck is only 21.25". I have a cap and a bunch of stuff in the bed. I measured a similar truck at the dealer while waiting for my truck to be delivered and it was 23" to the top opening of the hitch. I like the hitch but am concerned that the ball would be to close to hitting the ground in the lowest position in some circumstances. Most hitches, including the B&W Tow and Stow, recommends 11" of clearance below the lowest part of the hitch and the ground.

 

I wish they only had one ball that could be changed like the Weigh Safe hitch. The 6" drop hitch from Northern Tool is another option.

rjgvt Enthusiast

rjgvt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did some measurements compared to my last truck, current truck, boat trailer and utility trailer, I figured the Northern Tool 6" drop hitch would work and ordered one. Also ordered a Curt 40056 10,000 pound rated 2" SS ball with a 1 1/4" x 2 5/8" shank. 

 

The nut needed to be torqued at 450 lb-ft. Got a 3' 3/4" drive breaker bar from HF and a 1 7/8" 3/4" drive socket from Tractor Supply. HF has a sale going right now and saved a few bucks. My biggest torque wrench is 250 lb-ft and didn't want to buy a big one. Could have went to a local garage and maybe they would help me but I like doing stuff myself. I put the hitch in with the sleeve rotated 90 degrees.

 

I weighed 206 lbs today dressed for being outside. Math: 450/206 = 2.18' = a little over 26". I marked the breaker bar a little over 26" from the center line of the socket. I have a Snap On 3/4" drive ratchet that I acquired while working and tightened the nut as much as I could. I used a big adjustable wrench on the ball flat supported by a couple of boards on a cinder block. Then used the breaker bar on the ball. I stood on a little folding stool I keep in the truck to reach stuff for balance and then put all of my weight on the breaker bar. The bar went down some and put it back level. Stepped on it again and called it good.

 

I could have used a long pipe with the ratchet but was concerned if it would give. I have broke smaller ratchets using a pipe!! 

 

My pic looks similar to others that use this hitch with the Multi-Pro tailgate. I don't think I'd stand on the step with the hitch in but it's nice to know that it won't hit with normal use. I normally remove the hitch when not in use and will disable the inner gate when a trailer is hooked up.

 

 

Northern Tool 6 inch Drop Hitch and 2 inch Curt 40056 SS Ball.jpg

Edited by rjgvt
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Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

I do a similar operation to tighten hitch ball nuts. Always be ready for something to shift or give way so you avoid a nasty fall into unforgiving metal stuff.  Be safe. 

  • Like 1
bruceb58 Enthusiast

bruceb58

Posted
Posted
On 3/1/2024 at 1:38 PM, rjgvt said:

 

I weighed 206 lbs today dressed for being outside. Math: 450/206 = 2.18' = a little over 26". I marked the breaker bar a little over 26" from the center line of the socket. I have a Snap On 3/4" drive ratchet that I acquired while working and tightened the nut as much as I could. I used a big adjustable wrench on the ball flat supported by a couple of boards on a cinder block. Then used the breaker bar on the ball. I stood on a little folding stool I keep in the truck to reach stuff for balance and then put all of my weight on the breaker bar. The bar went down some and put it back level. Stepped on it again and called it good.

 

I do pretty much the exact same thing when setting up my WDH that needs the bolts torqued to 320 ft-lb

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Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
Posted
On 2/27/2024 at 3:55 PM, rjgvt said:

 

Thanks for the measurement. The top of the hitch opening on my truck is only 21.25". I have a cap and a bunch of stuff in the bed. I measured a similar truck at the dealer while waiting for my truck to be delivered and it was 23" to the top opening of the hitch. I like the hitch but am concerned that the ball would be to close to hitting the ground in the lowest position in some circumstances. Most hitches, including the B&W Tow and Stow, recommends 11" of clearance below the lowest part of the hitch and the ground.

 

I wish they only had one ball that could be changed like the Weigh Safe hitch. The 6" drop hitch from Northern Tool is another option.

I have the Weigh Safe.  A nice hitch.

Flat-12 New Member

Flat-12

Posted
Posted

It just depends on how high you have it in the adjustable mount. I have to run my  B&W at the top holes for my trailer to be level and it hits the tailgate when trying to fold down. 

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SoCal Angler Enthusiast

SoCal Angler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I guess if I am unable to clear ball based on my height needed, I'll have to place in stow position to use inner tailgate.  That's the whole purpose anyway.

 

If not, and will inner gate will hit even in stowed position,  any hitch would do, seeing as you will have to remove ball mounts anyway.

SoCal Angler Enthusiast

SoCal Angler

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thank you to all for your insight, comments, and pics.  It helped me make a decision. 

 

I ordered and received a B&W MP hitch with 2 and 2 5/16" balls.  It fits great and my inner gate drops and clears by approx. 1", when in stowed position.

 

The two locking pins I was planning on using for the ball height adjustment are approx. 0.622" and the OEM B&W pins are 0.620".  My locking pins will not fit in any of the four holes.  Since both of these measurements are under 5/8" (0.625), that tells me the hitch holes are smaller than 5/8"...probably at 0.620 - 0.621". 

 

I'm going to try a few other pins I may have and see what I find.  I'm not comfortable drilling out a new hitch or grinding down my locking pins.  For now, the OEM pins fit, but are snug going in/out. We can call it a VERY precise fit! 

 

Did anyone of you with this hitch experience similar issues with hole sizes?

 

The locking pins were not so much for theft of the entire B&W ball mount hitch, as ball mount is not removable if a locking hitch pin is used in receiver hitch portion.  They were for preventing theft of the OEM pins, as they are simply held on by hitch pins.

 

After much consideration, the OEM pins are preferred IMHO, as it allows for quick stow and tow positions.  Worst that can happens is pins are stolen and ball mount is left hanging. Best to have 3 back up pins.......

 

Now for back up pins..... B&W OEM pins OR Amazon Pins? 

 

Thanks! 

Edited by SoCal Angler
gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are you asking about buying oem pins from B&W or oem B&W pins from Amazon?

 

Wherever you find the cheapest oem pins from.

 

If'n you clevis tow, buy the B&W clevis hitch, throw it in a crossover, and you'll get spare pins.

 

Guarantee nobody will be able to remove pins while hooked up to a load.

 

Screenshot_20240309_134928_Gallery.thumb.jpg.acbadde5b18661d7c80da0556103e868.jpg

 

Edited by gemarsh
SoCal Angler Enthusiast

SoCal Angler

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I do not clevis tow, but that would have been a solution for new pins.

 

1.  I was thinking OEM pins directly from B&W 3/$45 VS the copycat pins sold on Amazon 3/$22.

 

2.  Also, I have a hitch pin lock to leave hitch attached even when not towing., but now I'm not sure of its quality. Most of these damn hitch locks (both tube and standard keys) are so easy to pick or just break off the end of the lock with a piece of pipe. I 'm just concerned about securing my $400 hitch from potential thieves, which it seems are rampant everywhere! 

 

This is a popular choice of locking hitch pin that is supposed to be of "higher quality" than most....

 

 

InfiniteRule Hitch Lock - Picked in 30 Secs!

 

I guess, when not towing, I can place the entire hitch in my truck cab under my rear seat.  But....that defeats the purpose of the "stow" feature.

 

I'd like to know how others are handling the security of this expensive hitch?

Edited by SoCal Angler
gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted

I have the anti-rattle design that threads into an insert that sets in the hitch tube. It takes an uncommon 5/8ths wrench to remove. It's torqued down enough that I don't believe a crescent wrench will loosen it. Then it has a lock on the other end. The pin/bolt is hardened so a vice grip can't bite into it.

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