U-Haul Trailer Towing Questions

[BlaineBug]

I will be towing a dual axle U-Haul trailer loaded with stuff about 1,200 miles in a week in a half.  My questions include;

 

1. What do I air up my tow vehicle's tires to?  Maximum inflation listed on sidewall?

 

2. What do I air the trailer tires up to?  Maximum inflation listed on sidewall?

 

3. Do I have to stop at weigh stations?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Edited May 23 by BlaineBug

[txab]

For towing that I've never increased my tire pressure on vehicle. Properly loaded, only a small portion of the load is on your tongue. Trailer bears the bulk of the weight. Trailer tire pressure is marked on the trailer around the wheel area. If not ask U-haul. No you do not stop at weigh stations.

 

Those trailers usually are easy to tow and handle well, if you load them correctly. Practice stopping a few times when you leave to get a feel for how your vehicle/trailer combo react and figure out your stopping distance

Edited May 23 by txab

[BlaineBug]

3 minutes ago, txab said:

For towing that I've never increased my tire pressure on vehicle. Properly loaded, only a small portion of the load is on your tongue. Trailer bears the bulk of the weight. Trailer tire pressure is marked on the trailer around the wheel area. If not ask U-haul. No you do not stop at weigh stations

Thank you for the suggestions.  There will be some weight added to the tow vehicle for sure however, especially considering that I will not be using a weight distributing hitch with the U-Haul trailer.  Just utilizing the OEM trailer hitch integrated in to the rear bumper.

[txab]

That trailer doesn't need a distributing hitch. They're pretty fool proof on loading and towing, as long as you don't throw all the weight in the front. You can put in a few extra pounds into the vehicle tires if you wish.

[richard wysong]

Do not exceed the max inflation marked on the tire. As long as the tires are the same load rating that the truck came with just go by the sticker on the door jamb. Some folks try to save a buck and some tire stores will try to sell you a lower priced tire with a lesser load rating than what should be on the truck. A load range C max inflation is 44psi I think but if the truck came with load range E tires the max inflation is 80psi and the door sticker will probably say 80 rear and 50 front

[BlaineBug]

40 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

Do not exceed the max inflation marked on the tire. As long as the tires are the same load rating that the truck came with just go by the sticker on the door jamb. Some folks try to save a buck and some tire stores will try to sell you a lower priced tire with a lesser load rating than what should be on the truck. A load range C max inflation is 44psi I think but if the truck came with load range E tires the max inflation is 80psi and the door sticker will probably say 80 rear and 50 front

I have replacement Michelins, not the factory tire on the truck (originals were Eco something) but should be same load rating.  The max pressure on sidewall is not the max pressure listed in the door jamb, however.

[richard wysong]

The pressures listed on the door jamb are what GM engineers determined the best for handling, braking , load carrying etc for that truck with the factory suspension and the correct load range tires. If anything has been altered it's a guessing game, just do not exceed the max inflation marked on the tire or you risk damaging the tires and a possible blow out when the tires heat up on the road. You will be amazed at the amount of tire debris on the hi-ways when you take your trip and it is not all from tractor trailers

[richard wysong]

You moving or just going on an adventure?

[BlaineBug]

1 hour ago, richard wysong said:

You moving or just going on an adventure?

Moving cross-country.  The U-Haul is for my tools and more valuable accoutrements.  The movers will get everything else.

Edited May 24 by BlaineBug

[BlaineBug]

1 hour ago, richard wysong said:

The pressures listed on the door jamb are what GM engineers determined the best for handling, braking , load carrying etc for that truck with the factory suspension and the correct load range tires. If anything has been altered it's a guessing game, just do not exceed the max inflation marked on the tire or you risk damaging the tires and a possible blow out when the tires heat up on the road. You will be amazed at the amount of tire debris on the hi-ways when you take your trip and it is not all from tractor trailers

I am aware.  I have traveled this route 4 round-trips thus far.

[txab]

Since you mention tools, it's real easy load too much weight on the tongue with tools/boxes. So be aware and balance as bet you can. Let the trailer axles bear the weight

[BlaineBug]

14 hours ago, txab said:

Since you mention tools, it's real easy load too much weight on the tongue with tools/boxes. So be aware and balance as bet you can. Let the trailer axles bear the weight

Yes, that is true.  I had originally planned on putting my tool boxes in the front corners of the trailer for stability, using the front wall of the trailer as a way to blockade the trailer in addition to straps.  There are a relatively low amount of tiedown points in these trailers.  Not sure what to do.  The other alternative would be on the sidewalls over the axles, but then the tool boxes won't have any trailer walls to keep them in position.

[txab]

Do the best you can. The more balanced the easier the pull and drive will be. Aren't there at least "D" rings along the walls. Turn your drawer openings towards the walls. Maybe 1 up front then the other further back. All depends on what other weight you have. When I moved all mine I adjusted the load twice to get a better balance. I did have my heaviest on up front, then my others along the walls moving backwards.

 

Not everyones boxes weigh a huge amount. They just concentrate good bit of weight in one spot.

 

I never want to move mine again. Too much work too load and unload. 

[BlaineBug]

8 minutes ago, txab said:

Do the best you can. The more balanced the easier the pull and drive will be. Aren't there at least "D" rings along the walls. Turn your drawer openings towards the walls. Maybe 1 up front then the other further back. All depends on what other weight you have. When I moved all mine I adjusted the load twice to get a better balance. I did have my heaviest on up front, then my others along the walls moving backwards.

 

Not everyones boxes weigh a huge amount. They just concentrate good bit of weight in one spot.

 

I never want to move mine again. Too much work too load and unload. 

I don't remember what the trailer has for mounting provisions.  It has been more than a month since I made the reservation and walked inside of it.

[richard wysong]

Last time I moved my big box I picked it up with a bobcat with forks then put the machine with the toolbox still on the forks on the trailer. Before that I would use the wheel lift on my wrecker. . The 1 time I tried to move it in a pick-up it tipped over, It was not a pretty sight. I hope to never have to move it again